What did you do to your jeep today?

[LFX1]

Check your upper and lower ball joints, they are the no1 cause of knocking noises & if ignored the wheel will fall off!

We have checked them with load off the wheels, and the auto center checked them on the rack, and can't find anything loose, plus they were all new probably less than 1500 miles on them alignment takes as well. Believe me I been thinking of pulling them apart just to feel the joint, but the auto shop did the alignment when my brother and I redid it all, and I didn't drive it a lot since so come this spring I took it back to have alignment checked again and get a different tech and they couldn't find anything a second time, guy said if they were loose or bad they would find movement, and seen none. So its rather baffling. The bottoms where the better moogs, the tops where some over the counter control arms. as where the struts. So first thought was with those 2 things, or at least the struts failing.

Not sure the way the strut is made if it went bad if we would hear it like you do in cars unless you had a ton of travel movement. Jeep rides perfect on regular roads soon as hit bumps, the sound of the the thump thump, which first thought was ball joint, but with shop saying it wasn't, only thing I could think of is some other mounts, just not finding anything loose yet. I might have to start pulling stuff apart to verify joints if anything for piece of mind.

 

[duderz7]

If your upper control arms were torqued with the suspension drooping it'll cause issues and noises. You could loosen them, bounce the Jeep a bit and the torque. Same with sway bar links. Which reminds me, the sway bar bushings up front can be very noisy if worn-out.

 

[LFX1]

If your upper control arms were torqued with the suspension drooping it'll cause issues and noises. You could loosen them, bounce the Jeep a bit and the torque. Same with sway bar links. Which reminds me, the sway bar bushings up front can be very noisy if worn-out.

I'll check the sway bars. Originally when every thing was put in, nothing was torqued in the air, as we didn't want to bind up any of the mounts, my brother made sure those were in right, sway bar may need review. This started about 3-4 months after all of it was in, not right away.

This is stock no lift or front level yet. thanks for the input.

 

[Noclutch]

I'll check the sway bars. Originally when every thing was put in, nothing was torqued in the air, as we didn't want to bind up any of the mounts, my brother made sure those were in right, sway bar may need review. This started about 3-4 months after all of it was in, not right away.

This is stock no lift or front level yet. thanks for the input.

How are your rack and pinion bushings?

 

[LFX1]

How are your rack and pinion bushings?

Probably need replaced, but I don't feel any smacking movement, but ill review that. I know the sway bar mounts were replaced couple years back, but could be the culprit ill grab those and swap them out and check the rack ones. Least check it off.

 

[LFX1]

How are your rack and pinion bushings?

Odd Liberty is an 07, but when I look for rack bushings they show up to 06, and say they aren't compatible for 07 and can't seem to find a factory part diagram to cross reference, looking at the rack the part looks like the 06, but odd all the sites either don't show the 07 part, or say the 06 is not compatible.

 

[duderz7]

Odd Liberty is an 07, but when I look for rack bushings they show up to 06, and say they aren't compatible for 07 and can't seem to find a factory part diagram to cross reference, looking at the rack the part looks like the 06, but odd all the sites either don't show the 07 part, or say the 06 is not compatible.

https://creative-steel.com/shop/jee...berty-kj-polyurethane-steering-rack-bushings/ these are the ones you want anyway.

 

[LFX1]

Thanks, when I couldn't find 07 listed I just happened to look there as I that is where everyone says to get the diff mounts if you need them.

https://creative-steel.com/shop/jee...berty-kj-polyurethane-steering-rack-bushings/ these are the ones you want anyway.

 

[lfhoward]

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Today I bought a 22 mm wrench and a Bernzomatic torch with the yellow MAPP gas canister. I will no longer be asking nicely.

Job done. Couldn’t have been easier. I wish I had bought the torch a long a long time ago! Also a 22 mm closed end wrench was important for this job. I didn’t end up needing the fire extinguisher thankfully, but I was glad to have it nearby.

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Here is the new sensor in place.

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The connector was not bad to get to. I think I was lucky that I got to change this particular one for my first try.

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[lfhoward]

Arrived:

- PML finned, aluminum, deep transmission pan with new stainless steel hardware
- Mopar ATF+4, 8 quarts
- Mopar transmission filter and O-ring
- Fel-Pro rubber transmission gasket
- Aftermarket transmission dipstick with cm markings (since the 08 KK doesn’t come with one)

It is supposed to rain this weekend, but this job is on my short list after replacing a stuck oxygen sensor.

Hopefully the transmission will go another 60k miles!

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Here’s the reason for the PML transmission pan. I did the O2 sensor you see there today, but this photo shows the leaky transmission pan pretty well.

 

[lfhoward]

Bad news…

My 4” lift JBA adjust a strut on the drivers side had a catastrophic failure. The steel shaft of the shock (not sure what it is called) broke off where it joined the clevis. The lower shock mount went flying out, with the spring, as the unit separated into its top and bottom halves. The top half with the shock tube is still attached to the top plate. The bottom half, the clevis fork, is still attached to the lower control arm. The Jeep collapsed down to the bump stop, but only after the abs sensor and CV axle were torn up. Jeepy had to be towed. It is a sad day. She is not driveable and JBA lift kits are not made anymore. I have to figure out what to do.

 

[lfhoward]

Looking at local junk yards for OEM shock towers. Not too bad price-wise. I have a pair of 1/4” top plate spacers from AtTheHelm that will get me 1/2”, and some OME springs could get me another 2 or 2-1/2”. A clevis lift could be good for another 3/8” maybe. Thinking about possibly going this route. Too bad to lose the adjustability though, and the front end might end up a bit lower than it is now.

I’d need an OEM CV (new aftermarket CV’s are too short on lifted Liberties). Also I’d need a wheel bearing with a working speed sensor. For the strut towers I will also need OME or Bilstein shocks, top plates, and clevis forks.

I would also need time to do all this wrenching.

 

[Luke]

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