What did you do to your jeep today?

[lfhoward]

Quick question for anyone who has done their shocks or a lift:

What’s the best way to loosen frozen clevis bolts? I’ve only had them soaking for a little over 12 hours, which isn’t enough. I’ll keep doing that. But any tips?

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Normally heat would loosen a bolt like this, but heat next to a pressurized shock could be no bueno.

 

[CherokeeLiberty]

Quick question for anyone who has done their shocks or a lift:

What’s the best way to loosen frozen clevis bolts? I’ve only had them soaking for a little over 12 hours, which isn’t enough. I’ll keep doing that. But any tips?

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Normally heat would loosen a bolt like this, but heat next to a pressurized shock could be no bueno.

You could try heating just the outer ear of the clevis. What kind of oil are you soaking it with?

 

[lfhoward]

You could try heating just the outer ear of the clevis. What kind of oil are you soaking it with?

I’m using a penetrating oil called Free-All, which is supposed to also dissolve rust.

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Aerokroil is another option I have on the shelf.

 

[CheddarGau]

I’m using a penetrating oil called Free-All, which is supposed to also dissolve rust.

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Aerokroil is another option I have on the shelf.

I like starting with that and also putting some heat to it. The fire will get in and essentially flake/burst the rust off along with expand the metal and usually make life easier. That said I also come from the land of little to no rust, so 1000% I would be torching that one. Impact gun will also make things easier if you have one.

 

[lfhoward]

I like starting with that and also putting some heat to it. The fire will get in and essentially flake/burst the rust off along with expand the metal and usually make life easier. That said I also come from the land of little to no rust, so 1000% I would be torching that one. Impact gun will also make things easier if you have one.

What would be your strategy to keep the shock cool?

 

[CheddarGau]

What would be your strategy to keep the shock cool?

I prefer high heat with low flame, which make it very directed in one area. If you heat for a long time it will eventually heat everything. I will wrap water soaked (dripping) around rubber things to keep them from burning if I have to use an aggressive flame, but one of the butane/propane torches from hardware stores should be enough. It's lower heat, but they can accomplish the same task. My coworker uses one over they oxy torch. He gets results but takes way too much time for a flat rate guy hahaha.

 

[lfhoward]

I’ve got one of the big Bernzomatic 8000 torches but I can keep the gas rate low on it.

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It worked like magic on an stuck oxygen sensor the other day.

 

[CheddarGau]

I’ve got one of the big Bernzomatic 8000 torches but I can keep the gas rate low on it.

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It worked like magic on an stuck oxygen sensor the other day.

That will work. Those don't have a huge flame. Higher temp will put the heat in faster and have a better chance of break the fused rust. Just control where the flame goes and you'll be good.

 

[lfhoward]

Thank you, @CheddarGau. I will give this a shot.

 

[LFX1]

These arrived today from a junkyard on the eBay. Some poor old Nitro doesn’t need them anymore.

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I have them soaking in Free-All in the back yard, probably for the next 5 business days (which YouTuber did I just channel there?)

I need the clevises, as well as the top plates and maybe the spring isolators, although the isolators look kind of old and dry rotted. I am sure Free-All isn’t good for the rubber either. I will probably order new isolators. The clevises and top plates will get cleaned up and painted.

Just for comparison… here is a new Old Man Emu 2927 spring. It will be squished down to the same height when the struts are assembled but check out how many more coils there are vs. stock. It should provide 2.5 inches of lift over stock. (I got OME shocks too, but they are not in the picture.)

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Cheers, - Lauren

you going to compress those your self? I picked up a pair I believe they are OME2790, depending on where you reference the part number, they fit my 2007 gas, but some sites show they are for the diesel CRD. I was told if I use them on a gas model they will ride hard if I don't have ARB or winch. I got a good price on them just on fence if I should consider that part number as people say its the better spring . Which one are you using on the back?

 

[lfhoward]

Oh no, not compressing these myself. I’m going to have them disassembled at a shop and put back together at a shop, where they have the proper equipment. I’d like to get the clevis forks off so that I can clean them up and paint them. I am now thinking that I might get new top plates (if that is the correct term) because some of those studs are extremely rusty. If I do, I won’t need to have these old struts disassembled by a shop, only just put the new ones together.

I have the 400 lbs per inch OME2927’s, whereas I believe your 2790’s are 500 lbs per inch. They will be a much stiffer ride, but if you have a steel bumper or winch I bet they would ride fine on a gasser. The CRD engine is heavier, of course, which is why they are heavier duty.

On the back I am sticking with my JBA 4” lifted springs, since I tow a trailer. If I was starting completely over I believe I would go with OME 2731’s with 280 lbs per inch vs the 2730’s which are 240 lbs per inch. I would also stack an extra rubber isolator on top for an additional bit of lift.

Edit: these rear spring numbers are for the 08-12 KK Liberty. Check summitracing.com for the match for your 07 KJ. Rears also need a longer shock than stock. Fronts will be the same part numbers, 02-12.

 

[KJowner]

I used an impact gun on mine, they looked similar to yours, got to love salted roads! They are a metric bolt with an unusual head, 15mm I think. Use a 6 point socket.
The worst bolts were the bottom of the strut to arm connections, I finished up with my 3/4" drive gear on them, the impact just spun the bolt and ripped the little metal tag off the head, luckily there was enough left to hammer a socket on, i love cheap impact sockets, I can be a lot more brutal than I would be with my expensive ones!

 

[seafish]

Induction heat gun for the win against stuck nuts and bolts without Burning Down the House.
But dont ask to borrow mine … have NOT been able to afford one yet

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[atikovi]

Scored a fog light kit at a junkyard. $40 total. Lenses just need restoring.

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[lfhoward]

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Not too bad actually!

 

[lfhoward]

Scored a fog light kit at a junkyard. $40 total. Lenses just need restoring.

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Nice score!!! Does the KJ need programming once it’s installed in order for it to work? The KK does. Check out an app called JScan if this is the case, because it’s a lot cheaper than the dealer for things like this.

 

[atikovi]

From some other posts on the subject, it should not need programming, but I do have AlfaOBD.

 

[65Corvair]

does this ride hard with crd springs, what rear and front bumpers do you have. tire carrier looks different, off set, is that factory? Nice Rig

Yes the CRD springs are a bit harsh, so I recently changed to 2927 spring. It rides alot better and has better suspension flex with the softer spring rate.
Front bumper is a ARB bumper I bought used and refurbished. More Pictures on the front bumper: Front Bumper
Rear bumper is a Rock Lizard Fabricatons bumper, but they are no longer in business. More Pictures on the rear bumper: Rear Bumper

 

[lfhoward]

Rock Lizard made some super cool bumpers. He had KK front and rear bumpers for a short time too.