What did you do to your jeep today?

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seafish

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Speaking of torque wrenches ;) , the 3/8" Lexivon brand torque wrench that I bought through amazon, started acting up while adjusting it to tighten the brake hose banjo bolts on the new front calipers.

While both my 3/4" drive and 1/2" drive are "old school" SK torque wrenches that still work beautifully after decades, my smaller 3/8" and 1/4" drive are from Lexivon that I bought over the last few years after I heard good things about them. The fit and finish on both of them looked exemplary and both have both worked perfectly since I bought them. That said, over the weekend while using the it to set torque on the Jeeps brake banjo bolts to 25 ft lbs, the adjustment knob stopped turning smoothly and instead would click and stick even though it wasn't locked and I hadn't dropped it.

Of course, it was already over a year old, but many Lexivon tools also come with a lifetime warranty. I submitted a warranty claim with a short video and a couple photos through their website and their customer support replied by email the very same day. They asked for a couple more details, verified the tools serial number and my shipping address, then assured me that they will be sending a new replacement in the mail with tracking ASAP, as well as a shipping label and box for the old one to be sent back so that they can determine what went wrong.

IMO, one can't really beat that kind of warranty support, so TWO thumbs up for Lexivon's very affordable and nicely finished torque wrenches and customer support!!!
 
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sota

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so, it said GASCAP when I pulled the jeep out, but before I got out of the driveway, it stopped.
 

profdlp

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It's weird, but I have had that happen to me twice over the past couple of months. Only thing I know for sure is that it is not the gas cap. :confused:
 

sota

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yea... *sigh*.... bleepin' jeep. :D

in other news, my $63 set of rear control arm bolts (4 for the lower arms, the 2 body side for the boomerang, and the pinch bolt for the ball joint) are arriving today. maybe tomorrow the kid and I will get to removing the stuck bolts for the lower arms. not doing the boomerang ones yet, as that's still in serviceable shape (and was done at least once by me), but the lowers have some slightly sketchy looking bushings at the differential end. I'm still hunting down some *minor* play up front and wandering in general. only thing left up front is basically the rack. I need to get out the scan tool and plug it in to get some specific measurements (angle in degrees) of how much play I'm feeling in the steering wheel, but let's call it 5°-10°. Is that "normal"?

I did notice a while back that, the bushings in my JBA front uppers have "walked" out towards the front of the jeep, so that has me somewhat concerned. REALLY don't want to have to remove them and try to fix that.

And I need to break out the plow and get to pulling it apart to drill out and install some bronze bushings in the pivot holes, as they've wallowed out from usage. There may be an investment in some tools to do that I suspect, namely a magnetic drill and an appropriate size end mill.

In other news, I ordered a scan tool to program the key for the Fiat, OBDPRO M501. So far this "project" is $420 for the tool, $12.50 for the key fob, $27 for a cut blade (online service btw... would recommend). Yet it's STILL cheaper than going to the dealer, as no locksmiths around here will do keys for a Fiat 500.

Still owe you guys a picture of the jeep with the Vredesteins installed. :D

And finally, If anyone wants any parts off this 2006 Liberty 65th in silver over grey, let me know. I'm keeping at least the transfer case (NP242) and everything after that in the drivetrain, to build up into a 4.10 geared customized shifting (hopefully!) setup. Still hunting around for a teraflex 2LO conversion kit, otherwise I might have to see what kind of crazy customizing I can do to that t-case. Wondering if I can't somehow split the 2/4F/4P mode selection from the HI/N/LO selection.
 

sota

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why are there 2 different size u-joints listed for the jeep?
3.220" and 3.620"
 

burntkat

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why are there 2 different size u-joints listed for the jeep?
3.220" and 3.620"
What location, year, model, engine, transmission, rear axle?

Basically... Could your question BE more vague?
 

burntkat

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I've been on furlough thanks to the government shutdown, since Friday.

Yes, I'm aware the shutdown has ended. There's still backed up paperwork on some minor functionary's desk, preventing funds from beijg released. Thus, furlough.)

So, being on furlough, haven't done much of anything but hang around the house. I did get the blower motor working on speeds 1-3, but haven't gotten to troubleshoot any of it, mostly because it's been raining just enough to keep things wet.
 

sota

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What location, year, model, engine, transmission, rear axle?

Basically... Could your question BE more vague?
I was more ******** about the fact there are 2 sizes listed on Rock Auto, and no indications there as to WHY.
2007 3.7L manual 4x4 and both rears. The front doesn't have u-joints; you should know that.
 

seafish

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why are there 2 different size u-joints listed for the jeep?
3.220" and 3.620"

I came across the same sort of problem with front u joints on my roughly same vintage (2005) Dodge Ram 4x4 … at the time, Chrysler must have used several different suppliers for the front DS and there were THREE differently sized ujoints available for my truck. The good folk at CJC Offroad helped me out with that one!!!

Unfortunately I do NOT have an answer to your question.
That said, I am thinking that tech support at Quadratech MIGHT have the answer for you.
 

LFX1

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So today on my 07 i hear slight timing tensioner chatter, I know guys have just done the tensioners and nothing else what are you guys thoughts on doing the whole kit vs just the tensioners?
 

sota

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Clean, what tires were those the Vereds?
yep.
P245/75R16.
also "added" a spacer/ring to the rear. I quoted that as the OE ones were pretty damn flat. :D
added *just* the right amount of tilt needed to not make it feel like i'm ridin' a dirty carolina squat. :D
I think they fill the arches appropriately now. the 70s always felt just a touch small.
also my speedo is dead accurate now. :D
 
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burntkat

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So today on my 07 i hear slight timing tensioner chatter, I know guys have just done the tensioners and nothing else what are you guys thoughts on doing the whole kit vs just the tensioners?
Fool's errand.
You're already that deep into the engine and have to take the timing set completely apart to do the tensioners (IIRC, it's been about a year). It's maybe 300 bucks in parts, don't cheap out on the parts or the effort.
Further info for thought... These engines are known for issues with the lifters (actually hydraulic lash adjusters, but why be pedantic?). Best to inspect them as well and replace any that are suspect. I don't recall the inspection methodology offhand. I did find 3 that were suspect.
Check Rocker arms, torque of the valve train fasteners, etc.
Inspect for signs of head gasket failure (you're going to need to replace the head gasket, IIRC). If you have to remove the heads, check for flatness of the head and cylinders. Like I said, it's been a while... Don't think the head has to come off but if the gasket is at all suspect, now is the time.
 
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