What did you do to your jeep today?

[derekj]

Found a set of 24-185240's through a Canadian parts house last week - showed up today

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[LFX1]

Fool's errand.
You're already that deep into the engine and have to take the timing set completely apart to do the tensioners (IIRC, it's been about a year). It's maybe 300 bucks in parts, don't cheap out on the parts or the effort.
Further info for thought... These engines are known for issues with the lifters (actually hydraulic lash adjusters, but why be pedantic?). Best to inspect them as well and replace any that are suspect. I don't recall the inspection methodology offhand. I did find 3 that were suspect.
Check Rocker arms, torque of the valve train fasteners, etc.
Inspect for signs of head gasket failure (you're going to need to replace the head gasket, IIRC). If you have to remove the heads, check for flatness of the head and cylinders. Like I said, it's been a while... Don't think the head has to come off but if the gasket is at all suspect, now is the time.

Thanks for honesty, i'll probably have someone else do this and was asking mainly due to cost. For what I have read the issues with the heads were resolved prior to late 2006, so I was hoping I would never see those issues. If anything I am one to always over do the parts replacement so I know what was replaced and when especially since it's all stock. Normally my brother would be doing a lot of this with me/for me, but he passed away so I'm left to attempt it, or pay someone noways and this is uncharted territory. I was laid off for over 7 months, job I have now isn't guaranteed past March, so saving as $ as possible, and was trying to get stuff done to vehicles to keep them going. I try get good parts, for this I been already pricing Melling, and Coyles, various prices based off the kit, and what comes with it. I get it while that deep in motor (especially if paying someone else) why not do it while your there.

Thanks, you included things I haven't seen others mention to check, I have seen a lot of stuff on the 3.7 if you get work done to make sure its someone that knows how to work on those motors and are familiar with them especially with the valve issues they have had.

Also seen one guy write up the cost comparison of this job and everything as you listed, vs just getting a rebuilt long block, wasn't sure if that was something others have done as I have noticed some users say they swapped motors.

This is are couple guys on youtube, one is in Michigan that has done a lot of 3.7 engines, he shows how to do the tensioners with out taking it all apart, it looks a little touch and go job, like one mistake and your pulling it all apart, something I would not tackle myself for sure.

Thanks again.

 

[LFX1]

Found a set of 24-185240's through a Canadian parts house last week - showed up today

You must be registered for see images attach

Are these the old stock number? For the lifted 2-3 inches if using the Dakota part ?

 

[derekj]

Are these the old stock number? For the lifted 2-3 inches if using the Dakota part ?

These are the rear shocks for a 4x4 Dakota, which works great on a Liberty that is lifted 2-3” - there are 2 options from Bilstein in the yellow shocks, but I’m not aware of one being “old stock”

 

[sota]

so I still have a wandering problem, even after installing the rack bushings.
Only suspension bits that haven't been replaced are the rack itself and the rear lower arms.
Hoping to do the latter soon, but I want to urethane fill the bushings first.
Also has anyone ever tried to slot the body side mount holes to allow some adjustment in the arms, and a source for camber washers
Was thinking of making something that would give the arms a little movement ability, to adjust the thrust angle if needed.

Everything else has been changed/touched:
front upper JBA arms
all recent lower bits
inner and outer tie rods have been done in the last 30k.

I'm really at a loss as to what would cause this thing to have any play at all and to want to wander like it does.

oh and it's done it since I took possession of it back in 2010 with 26k on the clock (now ~109k), through 5 different sets of tires as well, across sizes 225/75R16, 235/70R16, 245/70R16, and 245/75R16, brands of goodyear, michelin, yokohama, general, and vredestein. alignment shops can't find anything wrong either.

 

[derekj]

so I still have a wandering problem, even after installing the rack bushings.
Only suspension bits that haven't been replaced are the rack itself and the rear lower arms.
Hoping to do the latter soon, but I want to urethane fill the bushings first.
Also has anyone ever tried to slot the body side mount holes to allow some adjustment in the arms, and a source for camber washers
Was thinking of making something that would give the arms a little movement ability, to adjust the thrust angle if needed.

Everything else has been changed/touched:
front upper JBA arms
all recent lower bits
inner and outer tie rods have been done in the last 30k.

I'm really at a loss as to what would cause this thing to have any play at all and to want to wander like it does.

oh and it's done it since I took possession of it back in 2010 with 26k on the clock (now ~109k), through 5 different sets of tires as well, across sizes 225/75R16, 235/70R16, 245/70R16, and 245/75R16, brands of goodyear, michelin, yokohama, general, and vredestein. alignment shops can't find anything wrong either.

How are the u joints in the steering shaft? Does it wander all the time or just when accelerating or coasting?

 

[LFX1]

so I still have a wandering problem, even after installing the rack bushings.
Only suspension bits that haven't been replaced are the rack itself and the rear lower arms.
Hoping to do the latter soon, but I want to urethane fill the bushings first.
Also has anyone ever tried to slot the body side mount holes to allow some adjustment in the arms, and a source for camber washers
Was thinking of making something that would give the arms a little movement ability, to adjust the thrust angle if needed.

Everything else has been changed/touched:
front upper JBA arms
all recent lower bits
inner and outer tie rods have been done in the last 30k.

I'm really at a loss as to what would cause this thing to have any play at all and to want to wander like it does.

oh and it's done it since I took possession of it back in 2010 with 26k on the clock (now ~109k), through 5 different sets of tires as well, across sizes 225/75R16, 235/70R16, 245/70R16, and 245/75R16, brands of goodyear, michelin, yokohama, general, and vredestein. alignment shops can't find anything wrong either.

I had a floating feeling and seemed like I was always tending the wheel, front was all newer parts, rear shocks new, and lower control arms were replaced by dealer under warranty not to long ago. Even had new tires. Finally had that rear upper control arm done as rubber mounts were shot, ball joint was OK, but rubber mounts were blasted. Now it rides good, guy at the shop said when those uppers get bad they cause stability issues, have you checked that out? Over all I think the liberty back when it was new with 4k miles always drove a little squirly compared to other suv's I had or driven.

 

[sota]

you know, I swear I did the boomerang, but I can't find it in my notes.
need to do more digging.
Well...
no order for one on Rock Auto.
Nothing on amazon.
And the ebay order was in 2024 and that went on the khaki jeep.
so I guess, I never did buy one?

 

[LFX1]

you know, I swear I did the boomerang, but I can't find it in my notes.
need to do more digging.
Well...
no order for one on Rock Auto.
Nothing on amazon.
And the ebay order was in 2024 and that went on the khaki jeep.
so I guess, I never did buy one?

if you don't want that standard one, that IRONROCK company has the one that like a boomerang on steroids lot of adjustment. Not sure if you would need to do yours, but if you owned it for a while and never done it worth a good inspection, you have to get wheels off the ground like frame on stands, then let axle hang tires off easier, then jack the rear diff up a little to get up in there to see movement or phone cam to get good pix of the mounts. I was going to keep mine and rebuilt it, but the top side was so rusted and mounts so bad, I just pitched it. got the problem solver Moog one, hope if you do it, it helps or at least worth an inspection to rule it out.

 

[sota]

I saw the ironrock one and, I like it, but I don't like it THAT much
I'm going to order a new boomerang, and give it the filled urethane treatment so many other bushigs I've dealt with.

 

[seafish]

^^^ It's ALSO a good idea to pressure wash the underside of the back of the Jeep to keep dirt from falling in your eyes as you try to inspect and/or remove the UCA.

 

[seafish]

I saw the ironrock one and, I like it, but I don't like it THAT much
I'm going to order a new boomerang, and give it the filled urethane treatment so many other bushigs I've dealt with.

Unfortunately, I went with the 1AAuto rear UCA last time and bushings are already failing.

If I have to do mine again, and STILL cant afford the IronRock UCA, then Id likely go with the Mevotech Supreme.

More Information for MEVOTECH CMS25156

 

[CherokeeLiberty]

^^^ It's ALSO a good idea to pressure wash the underside of the back of the Jeep to keep dirt from falling in your eyes as you try to inspect and/or remove the UCA.

If you don’t live in the rust belt, I would advise against this. You need something to cuss at, after all.

 

[sota]

I was just going to get the cheapest one really, and fill the body mounts. What I wish is, someone made one with a greaseable ball joint. Now that I have a ryobi powered grease gun and one of those fancy quick nipple couplers, I have no excuses NOT to grease all the things.

I need to "pause" doing any more work on the jeep, as I just sprayed the underside with fluid film, and I need to spray down the rest of the vehicles, as it's getting close to That Time of the year. Also need to do work on the plow soon.

 

[mercdudecbr600]

yea... *sigh*.... bleepin' jeep.

in other news, my $63 set of rear control arm bolts (4 for the lower arms, the 2 body side for the boomerang, and the pinch bolt for the ball joint) are arriving today. maybe tomorrow the kid and I will get to removing the stuck bolts for the lower arms. not doing the boomerang ones yet, as that's still in serviceable shape (and was done at least once by me), but the lowers have some slightly sketchy looking bushings at the differential end. I'm still hunting down some *minor* play up front and wandering in general. only thing left up front is basically the rack. I need to get out the scan tool and plug it in to get some specific measurements (angle in degrees) of how much play I'm feeling in the steering wheel, but let's call it 5°-10°. Is that "normal"?

I did notice a while back that, the bushings in my JBA front uppers have "walked" out towards the front of the jeep, so that has me somewhat concerned. REALLY don't want to have to remove them and try to fix that.

And I need to break out the plow and get to pulling it apart to drill out and install some bronze bushings in the pivot holes, as they've wallowed out from usage. There may be an investment in some tools to do that I suspect, namely a magnetic drill and an appropriate size end mill.

In other news, I ordered a scan tool to program the key for the Fiat, OBDPRO M501. So far this "project" is $420 for the tool, $12.50 for the key fob, $27 for a cut blade (online service btw... would recommend). Yet it's STILL cheaper than going to the dealer, as no locksmiths around here will do keys for a Fiat 500.

Still owe you guys a picture of the jeep with the Vredesteins installed.

And finally, If anyone wants any parts off this 2006 Liberty 65th in silver over grey, let me know. I'm keeping at least the transfer case (NP242) and everything after that in the drivetrain, to build up into a 4.10 geared customized shifting (hopefully!) setup. Still hunting around for a teraflex 2LO conversion kit, otherwise I might have to see what kind of crazy customizing I can do to that t-case. Wondering if I can't somehow split the 2/4F/4P mode selection from the HI/N/LO selection.

What sort of parts do you have available? I’d love a new set of window belt dressing for the front doors.

 

[sota]

pretty much everything, as the jeep is complete, minus good cats and O2 sensors.
I've not thought about little bits like the window pieces you mentioned.

 

[LFX1]

I saw the ironrock one and, I like it, but I don't like it THAT much
I'm going to order a new boomerang, and give it the filled urethane treatment so many other bushigs I've dealt with.

What urethane you using?

 

[sota]

3M 08609 Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane Windshield Adhesive

 

[duderz7]

3M 08609 Window-Weld Super Fast Urethane Windshield Adhesive

I used that in my engine and transmission mount. It's pretty stiff. I don't think it would be good in a suspension bushing that moves as much as the ones in the front of the boomerang.

 

[mercdudecbr600]

Unfortunately, I went with the 1AAuto rear UCA last time and bushings are already failing.

If I have to do mine again, and STILL cant afford the IronRock UCA, then Id likely go with the Mevotech Supreme.

More Information for MEVOTECH CMS25156

Have the mevo tech supreme - replaced it 2xs in 5 years. The bushings give out on the lifted kj. Honestly the rear uca is a big enough pain that it’s worth the hassle buying iron rocks.