What did you do to your jeep today?

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burntkat

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Brought babygirl home yesterday. My sweet girl is now in a rosewood box and I have a photo I will put nearby.
Hug 'em if you got' em, folks.... For me.
 

sota

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having fun getting a useful tool for programming keys and pulling PINs.
I have a procedure now it looks like, just waiting on some blanks to test it with.
Also figuring out which tool I want at the end of the day.
 

seafish

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Rolled 220k miles … time for an ATF change with filters. Also did oil, fuel and air filters.

Giddyup had been resting in the shop overnight and I did the job cold.
Doing it cold lets the torque converter drain back into the pan as much as possible. Also, it's fairly easy to measure exactly how much ATF came out and then replace it with the same amount of fresh ATF+4. IMO, measuring what came out is much easier then having to add, idle, check and add, idle, check repeatedly during the refill. A little over 2.5 gallons of old ATF came out and thats what I put back in. Of course I'll still check it on the dipstick after I take her out for a run.

Doing it cold also means zero chance of getting a face full of hot ATF when the pan seal cracls open, though the fact that I had already put a PML "deep dish" aluminum pan on at the last ATF change, meant that wouldn't happen anyway. IMO, the PML pan is worth it for the magnetic drain plug alone, let alone the extra lube capacity. It's also "ribbed" for pleasure, oops um, er … I mean cooling. ;)

The only mistake I made is letting my OCD get the better of me and replacing the O-ring/seal for the sump filter with the new one that came with the new filter. It would have been MUCH easier and faster to just leave it alone and there really was NO reason to change it UNTIL I started to pry it out of the housing. :rolleyes:

All that said, minimal metal sludge on the magnetic drain plug, fluid did not smell burned at all, and everything looked really clean in, and under, the cover.


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seafish

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ID Parts sold me a kit with genuine Mopar filters for the transmission.
Also changed the oil, fuel and air filters…with UFI (the Euro OEM manufacturer for Chrysler) for the oil and fuel filters and Wx for the air filter.

For future reference, here are the two AT filters (sump and return) needed for the 545RFE in the 2005 2.8 CRD 4WD.
Being Mopar they fit perfectly.

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sota

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you should have sent a sample off to blackstone labs. you'd get a good report back as to the condition of the transmission.
 

seafish

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you should have sent a sample off to blackstone labs. you'd get a good report back as to the condition of the transmission.

good idea…didn't know they did that for ATF…maybe next time.
 
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sota

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they do it for pretty much any fluid.
i've sent oil, transmission, diff, t-case (which is just atf+4 anyways), etc. off to be checked.
pretty much a defacto event every time I buy a used car. you can learn important things, or confirm suspicions that way.
 

ikuo78

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I changed to studless winter tires.
When new, their hardness is said to be 45-55A.
Because there are many sipes, the blocks have low rigidity and are extremely soft.
Since it's all about softness, it can only be used for about 3-4 seasons.

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mercdudecbr600

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Check the dip dept
I changed to studless winter tires.
When new, their hardness is said to be 45-55A.
Because there are many sipes, the blocks have low rigidity and are extremely soft.
Since it's all about softness, it can only be used for about 3-4 seasons.

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Look robust but suggest checking the sip depth. Most disappear about 25% into wear and they significantly take a dive in snow/ice performance. This is why I got rid of my cooper tires - even though 3p rated they sucked after some wear. After physically inspecting many brands I only found that a few had full depth sipes, including Yokohama, Firestone, Michelin etc. Toyo was not one of the brands.
 

ikuo78

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In Japan, studless winter tires account for 36% of total tire sales, but in the USA that figure is apparently only 2.6%.
They may not be very familiar in the USA.
In Japan, the use of studded tires was probably banned around 1990, and since then tire manufacturers have been changing their tire models every year, and since around 2000 they have become much less slippery.
Bridgestone and Yokohama tires are apparently available in the USA.
Mine are Dunlop, made by Sumitomo Rubber, the company that produces the Falken brand.
 

mercdudecbr600

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I have no doubt they are great when new - it’s after wear that tires show their cred.

As an example: If you look at Michelins cross climate 2 tires, they have additional sips that open the more wear the tire gets. Pretty darn cool. But the point is, good brands have full depth siping and others just don’t but maybe have other qualities that make them good like Toyo open country. YMMV
 

ikuo78

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I have no doubt they are great when new - it’s after wear that tires show their cred.

As an example: If you look at Michelins cross climate 2 tires, they have additional sips that open the more wear the tire gets. Pretty darn cool. But the point is, good brands have full depth siping and others just don’t but maybe have other qualities that make them good like Toyo open country. YMMV
That's right.
In Japan, it's common to replace winter tires every three seasons, even if they're not worn down.
Most people probably only use them for around 15,000 km.

Even if they're not worn down, they're useless once they've hardened.
When I was using 14-year-old dead stock studless winter tires, I slid down an icy slope twice in one season. It seems they were just too old.
 
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