Is that the BWD from rockauto ??
I'd be curious to see a side by side pic of the toasted Four Seasons and the BWD…I never got to comapre them directly.
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What did you do to your jeep today?
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Is that the BWD from rockauto ??
I'd be curious to see a side by side pic of the toasted Four Seasons and the BWD…I never got to comapre them directly.
mercdudecbr600
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Update. Ongoing vibs. Had rear driveshaft rebuilt and rebalanced, replaced front driveshaft again with rebalanced unit, found wiped front output bearing in transfer case so replaced the tc (that’s solved the really nasty vibs), replaced new rear trans mount (dea brand) with oem and also replaced anchor motor mounts with oem, and for good measure replaced front wheel bearings.
So far, Rear driveshaft balancing and oem trans mount solved my rear vibs and since I’ve found that removing front diff is the only sane way to do the motor mounts, I’m having the diff looked through again by shop.
No, it's a Four Seasons unit... Which, oddly enough, doesn't look like the old one.
Old one has no markings and no obvious damage. I suspect I am the victim of the old swaperoo. Someone swapped a cheapie for the Four Seasons unit, kept the FS, and returned the cheapie in the Four Seasons box.... And I got it about 6 months ago.
Installed the new Four Seasons unit from Amazon - this one has appropriate markings. I now have functioning blower motor on fan settings 1-3, but not 4...
Connector looks fine. There's no indication of it overheating.
Its an improvement, but FFS. Now I need to find a diagram of the pinout for that connector.
At least I have some improvement. It's going to get cold tomorrow, there's a freeze warning. I will need something to clear the windows.
BWD part (for the Stratus) arrives tomorrow. I'll try it and see what happens.
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God I hate that…it recently happened to me with a 4' machined strait edge that I bought to tune up my joiner up…I took it out of the box and someone had replaced the machined strait edge with a 4' piece of 1/8" Simpson Tie strapping that they painted black and put right back in the box. Obviously it was unusable as a machine tool. I do hope that Amazon actually listened to me during the return/replacement when I advised them NOT to restock the returned item, but somehow I kinda doubt it
IIRC, high speed (4) bypasses the resistor entirely, though obviously not its wiring.
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CheddarGau
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That's how I understand it.
At any rate, it was very nice to have heat on the way in to work this morning. So, improving!
I suspect I'll be sending this latest unit back to Amazon if the one arriving today for the Stratus gets me all 4 speeds
CherokeeLiberty
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I once bought a new valve cover gasket for my old XJ. I dry aged it in my garage for a year. I figured it would work better that way
Country2003KJ
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Hi there. In my posting I was referring to the OEM lug nuts losing their caps such that I had 19mm original size lug nuts and 17mm size lugs nuts because the caps were falling off. I finally just replaced all of my lug nuts with the new aftermarket one piece 19mm lug nuts.
Got a link to what you bought?
I finally got around to draining out the rear differential fluid on Giddyup.
For some unknown reason, I had NOT got around to doing so since stabling her about 115k miles ago.
In fact, I only realized that when I recently checked her fluid levels and found the rear pumpkin to be almost about 3/4" down and pretty dam dark. Due to a family emergency, I was only able to top her off with some GL5 that I had and then I had put another 1000 miles on her, until now finally getting around to changing it out and then putting on the ARB rear diff cover using an excellent LubeLocker gasket.
The kinda bad news is that the fluid was pretty dark, and there was definitely some muck buildup at the bottom of the diff and on the gears … that said there was no obvious water intrusion.
The good news is that after a thorough cleaing use FOUR cans of brake cleaner, the R&P still looked good and there were only minimal metal flakes when I wiped out of the bottom of the pumpkin. The white specs on the blue shop towel in the first pic were about half the quantity of metal flakes that I wiped out. All of them were smaller then 1/16" … I also ran a magnet through the old lube that I drained out and got nothing. IMO that's not too bad for an OEM differential with 220k miles on it.
For some unknown reason, I had NOT got around to doing so since stabling her about 115k miles ago.
In fact, I only realized that when I recently checked her fluid levels and found the rear pumpkin to be almost about 3/4" down and pretty dam dark
. Due to a family emergency, I was only able to top her off with some GL5 that I had and then I had put another 1000 miles on her, until now finally getting around to changing it out and then putting on the ARB rear diff cover using an excellent LubeLocker gasket.The kinda bad news is that the fluid was pretty dark, and there was definitely some muck buildup at the bottom of the diff and on the gears … that said there was no obvious water intrusion.
The good news is that after a thorough cleaing use FOUR cans of brake cleaner, the R&P still looked good and there were only minimal metal flakes when I wiped out of the bottom of the pumpkin. The white specs on the blue shop towel in the first pic were about half the quantity of metal flakes that I wiped out. All of them were smaller then 1/16" … I also ran a magnet through the old lube that I drained out and got nothing. IMO that's not too bad for an OEM differential with 220k miles on it.
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Today, I got the ARB Chrysler 8.25 differential cover back onto the rear pumpkin.
Here are a few pics of it, including the mark on the dipstick that I filed in to match the factory diff fluid level at about mid axle height.
I also used a Lube Locker LLR-C825 gasket to install the ARB cover and both of them aligned perfectly with the pumpkin. That said, be careful of aftermarket/imitation "Lube Locker type" gaskets…while less expensive it seems clear, by some Amazon reviews and pics, that the QC on the non name brand "reusable" gaskets is NOT the same as LubeLockers QC.
Overall, this was a simple 3 hour job (which included thoroughly cleaning the inside of the pumpkin) and the results are a nice clean look, definitely easier lube changes in the future (if I actually remember to do it LOL)/ IMO the ARB diff cover is clearly an extremely well designed, well manufactured and STURDY cover well worth its price almost for the drain plug and dipstick alone.
Here are a few pics of it, including the mark on the dipstick that I filed in to match the factory diff fluid level at about mid axle height.
I also used a Lube Locker LLR-C825 gasket to install the ARB cover and both of them aligned perfectly with the pumpkin. That said, be careful of aftermarket/imitation "Lube Locker type" gaskets…while less expensive it seems clear, by some Amazon reviews and pics, that the QC on the non name brand "reusable" gaskets is NOT the same as LubeLockers QC.
Overall, this was a simple 3 hour job (which included thoroughly cleaning the inside of the pumpkin) and the results are a nice clean look, definitely easier lube changes in the future (if I actually remember to do it LOL)/ IMO the ARB diff cover is clearly an extremely well designed, well manufactured and STURDY cover well worth its price almost for the drain plug and dipstick alone.
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I'm afraid I have way too many parts and kits laying around like that... Including a full set of steering abd knuckles for hi-steer on a Dana 44 I want to put under my Tacoma... And several bits and bobs to do a SFA on it....I once bought a new valve cover gasket for my old XJ. I dry aged it in my garage for a year. I figured it would work better that way
I'm a fan of the spline-drive lugnuts, myself. Everything I own has them
So, the Stratus blower motor resistor arrived today. It's presently 39F out... And that is bloody well ARCTIC for coastal SC.
But I've been organizing my tools into some good quality tool rolls I found, and they made the job go much easier.
Changed out the Four Seasons for the BWD Stratus part mentioned earlier in this thread....
It's the green part on the left, below if I did this right...
DEFINITELY appears much beefier, etc. The new, used-it-one-day part on the right is the brand new, actual, Four Seasons part for this application ...
Next two pics are of the wiring harness and the new part, oriented in the assembled orientation ('**** up', referring to the ribs on the top of the connector). Note the spades are numbered on the back plane, a good piece of attention to detail. Pic of the back of the plug in the same orientation, and for color code verification on an 05.... I will be needing this, as I'm going to have to dig into wiring diagrams to troubleshoot further. I have good function on blower speeds 1,2, and 3....and nothing on 4, which as I understand it, should be bypassing the resistor entirely.
Next step is to check volts and current draw using my DMM. But for now, this is working well enough....
EDIT Leaving this here as I stumbled across it while getting ready for bed and don't want to lose it again, and it may help someone in the same boat... Contains diagrams and pinouts as well as a testing protocol...
www.jeepkj.com
I think I may find I have a bad contact, even though the plug looks fine, on the harness. Fortunately I have a Dorman repair pigtail sitting right next to me... But that's something for a warmer day....
But I've been organizing my tools into some good quality tool rolls I found, and they made the job go much easier.
Changed out the Four Seasons for the BWD Stratus part mentioned earlier in this thread....
It's the green part on the left, below if I did this right...
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DEFINITELY appears much beefier, etc. The new, used-it-one-day part on the right is the brand new, actual, Four Seasons part for this application ...
Next two pics are of the wiring harness and the new part, oriented in the assembled orientation ('**** up', referring to the ribs on the top of the connector). Note the spades are numbered on the back plane, a good piece of attention to detail. Pic of the back of the plug in the same orientation, and for color code verification on an 05.... I will be needing this, as I'm going to have to dig into wiring diagrams to troubleshoot further. I have good function on blower speeds 1,2, and 3....and nothing on 4, which as I understand it, should be bypassing the resistor entirely.
Next step is to check volts and current draw using my DMM. But for now, this is working well enough....
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EDIT Leaving this here as I stumbled across it while getting ready for bed and don't want to lose it again, and it may help someone in the same boat... Contains diagrams and pinouts as well as a testing protocol...
Blower motor / resistor
The blower does not operate on any of the four speeds. I replaced the resistor with a Durolast part from autozone a couple years ago. It still looks brand new. Is there a way to test it? I pulled the blower and it has plenty of power on 12v. I also checked and swapped relays under the hood...
www.jeepkj.com
I think I may find I have a bad contact, even though the plug looks fine, on the harness. Fortunately I have a Dorman repair pigtail sitting right next to me... But that's something for a warmer day....
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Finally got around to installing and perfectly adjusting the new parking brake shoes on Giddyup.
A good cleaning and a little silicone grease at all the pivot points was all it took.
While obviously not a hard job, it is definitely 7.5/10 on the PIA scale due to the "old school" spring design. Still, I gots NO skinned knuckles, so all good.
Giddyup now holds perfectly still with the parking brakes alone in neutral on a close to 30° slope.
A good cleaning and a little silicone grease at all the pivot points was all it took.
While obviously not a hard job, it is definitely 7.5/10 on the PIA scale due to the "old school" spring design. Still, I gots NO skinned knuckles, so all good.
Giddyup now holds perfectly still with the parking brakes alone in neutral on a close to 30° slope.
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I also installed the Akebono ProACT ceramic pads that I got from Rockauto for $30 on the rear axle since it was still up in the air from the differential lube job.
NOTE to self and others… apparently RA "wholesaler closeout" can include "open box returns" instead of a simple closeout. The front pads (still not installed) had the supplied grease packet already applied to the backing plates and Im pretty sure that no one at RA did that to help me out a little.
That said, they did credit me back $20 off if the $30 price for my effort in cleaning them as opposed to returning them.
A little weirder was the extra guide tab on the rear inner pad that I had to grind off in order to tip and fit the loaded caliper back onto the caliper frame, but only on one side. I've come across this before with cheap pads, but it was only on one side, since on the other side, the extra guide tab was properly positioned at the top of the pad. Still waiting to hear back from them about THAT little problem.
All that said, once again most of the time was spent cleaning up the calipers from the brake dust of the old semi metallic pads. I used a cordless Dremel with a wire brush and also added a little extra silicone grease to the sliding pins.
Looking forward to seeing how these ceramic pads work tomorrow when I drive to the city in a big storm. With predicted 30 mph sustained winds and 50 mph gusting, Im ALSO gonna pack the chain saw "just in case" for the return trip.
NOTE to self and others… apparently RA "wholesaler closeout" can include "open box returns" instead of a simple closeout. The front pads (still not installed) had the supplied grease packet already applied to the backing plates and Im pretty sure that no one at RA did that to help me out a little.
That said, they did credit me back $20 off if the $30 price for my effort in cleaning them as opposed to returning them.
A little weirder was the extra guide tab on the rear inner pad that I had to grind off in order to tip and fit the loaded caliper back onto the caliper frame, but only on one side. I've come across this before with cheap pads, but it was only on one side, since on the other side, the extra guide tab was properly positioned at the top of the pad. Still waiting to hear back from them about THAT little problem.
All that said, once again most of the time was spent cleaning up the calipers from the brake dust of the old semi metallic pads. I used a cordless Dremel with a wire brush and also added a little extra silicone grease to the sliding pins.
Looking forward to seeing how these ceramic pads work tomorrow when I drive to the city in a big storm. With predicted 30 mph sustained winds and 50 mph gusting, Im ALSO gonna pack the chain saw "just in case" for the return trip.
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You lucky, lucky bastard.... No amount of fiddling has gotten mine working.Finally got around to installing and perfectly adjusting the new parking brake shoes on Giddyup.
A good cleaning and a little silicone grease at all the pivot points was all it took.
While obviously not a hard job, it is definitely 7.5/10 on the PIA scale due to the "old school" spring design. Still, I gots NO skinned knuckles, so all good.
Giddyup now holds perfectly still with the parking brakes alone in neutral on a close to 30° slope.
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It's got to the point I'm designing a TC-mounted, electrical, parking brake assembly to be driven off a few relays and a microswitch on the factory brake lever.
Nothing done on the Jeep today, other than discuss it with my favorite, actual, dealership-trained, Jeep mechanic.... Ie, my son.
We are both of the mind it's time to start probing with the DMM. Although the factory plug looks fine, it might not be making proper contact on pin 2.
Took my favorite copilot, Abby the Aussie, to the doctor today. Clean bill of health for my little girl, abd the seizures seem to have gone to a minimum, just 2 or so a month. Picked up her meds while I was out, and she was a very good girl, behaving well and staying 'center' (sit between my feet, meaning on them apparently..) Got home and commenced to working on the wall that accidentally got popped by the wife last week while the other dog (Ollie, the 'special' Lab mix) got in the way. So I ripped a couple 4' 2x4s down by 5/8" to suit a spare piece of ply from the recent roof work and screwed them to the wall studs after cutting the wall back to a convenient 2'x4' rectangle, then used them as a screwing flange for that plywood between studs. Will pick up some 1/2" drywall tomorrow and then it's a matter of taping, floating, and painting.... And never have to deal with it again.
We are both of the mind it's time to start probing with the DMM. Although the factory plug looks fine, it might not be making proper contact on pin 2.
Took my favorite copilot, Abby the Aussie, to the doctor today. Clean bill of health for my little girl, abd the seizures seem to have gone to a minimum, just 2 or so a month. Picked up her meds while I was out, and she was a very good girl, behaving well and staying 'center' (sit between my feet, meaning on them apparently..) Got home and commenced to working on the wall that accidentally got popped by the wife last week while the other dog (Ollie, the 'special' Lab mix) got in the way. So I ripped a couple 4' 2x4s down by 5/8" to suit a spare piece of ply from the recent roof work and screwed them to the wall studs after cutting the wall back to a convenient 2'x4' rectangle, then used them as a screwing flange for that plywood between studs. Will pick up some 1/2" drywall tomorrow and then it's a matter of taping, floating, and painting.... And never have to deal with it again.
