What did you do to your jeep today?

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lfhoward

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Came out of church and had another "no-start". I do not think it is the battery. I turn the key, everything that should light up does so quite nicely, but no crank.
This happed on my Commander. It turned out that there was corrosion on the spade connector that tells the starter when to start. Check that, clean it off, and reattach… hopefully that fixes it! Mine spent 24 hours parked in front of my favorite pizza place before I could get my tools and get back to it. Church isn’t a bad option either. ;)
 

profdlp

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Is the spade connector on the starter? Or elsewhere?

This happened about three years ago. I had it towed and then the mechanic could not get it to "not start" the whole next day. Then about three months ago it happened again. Fortunately I was home so I waited until the next day and it worked. Then it happened a third time about two weeks ago. At home again, so waiting did the trick. I would have had a four-mile hike home so I kept trying every few minutes until I managed to get lucky. The starter was replaced about six years ago and I have been wondering ever since if that was even necessary.

Thanks for the advice - I will try it as soon as I know where to check.
 

seafish

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^^^
Where to start looking…

Double check battery connections anyway for clean and tight

Check battery voltage anyways

Starter wire terminals

Starter solenoid contacts worn?

Ignition switch contacts worn?

Neutral safety interlock slightly out of adjustment (not at all sure about this one)?
 

duderz7

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Tap on the starter,if you can reach it, I had a similar situation with my Yukon and it was the starter solenoid was sticking. Couple of taps always worked. If this does work after taping it's time for another starter.
 

seafish

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Tap on the starter,if you can reach it, I had a similar situation with my Yukon and it was the starter solenoid was sticking. Couple of taps always worked. If this does work after taping it's time for another starter.

True dat… used to happen on my Dakota truck … used a long 1/2” iron pipe taped up on one end like a pool cue to tap the starter from the top of the engine compartment while a freind turned the key … several layers of electrical tape coating the one end of the iron pipe kept me from having to worry about shorting out the hot terminal to ground while doing it :oops:
 
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LFX1

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This happed on my Commander. It turned out that there was corrosion on the spade connector that tells the starter when to start. Check that, clean it off, and reattach… hopefully that fixes it! Mine spent 24 hours parked in front of my favorite pizza place before I could get my tools and get back to it. Church isn’t a bad option either. ;)
Spade connector on the starter ?
 

profdlp

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^^^
Where to start looking…

Double check battery connections anyway for clean and tight

Check battery voltage anyways

Starter wire terminals

Starter solenoid contacts worn?

Ignition switch contacts worn?

Neutral safety interlock slightly out of adjustment (not at all sure about this one)?
Battery is OK. I have the Garmin Mechanic and can actually monitor the voltage in real-time. (When it starts...)

Terminals look OK but I will have another look. (I was splitting firewood all afternoon and am about to croak.)

Where is the starter solenoid?

Ignition contacts are actually newer than the Jeep. They were replaced after a break-in eleven years ago.

I am not sure about the neutral safety interlock either, though I did try moving the gear selector a few times.

I appreciate the input! :)

Oh, and I have done a good bit of tapping on the starter, half in an effort to get it going and half to vent my frustrations. :oops:
 

profdlp

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Oh, and one other thing: I remember hearing about a pin in the ignition that can go bad. I think it has something to do with the anti-theft stuff.
 
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LFX1

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Rear upper done, Moog problem solver. Also found cracked wire that was causing drivers speed sensor an ABS and Traction lights all fixed next is 4WD sensor to correct that light then as usual chasing rusty rockers next. Original was rusted to crap and ball joint was lose but not to point of failure, one bushing end was blasted and other was broken glad to finally be done with this part ride is like new jeep with all other new suspension parts.
 

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burntkat

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Didn't do much with the Jeep today but I've bought a Land-rover to replace it. Sadly the auto box flaring in 4th is the end of the line for the old CRD, it's been fun.
Your problems are just beginning if you bought a Landy..... The Brits aren't known for building durable 4x4s (anymore)
 

burntkat

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Changed the oil and filter, checked the wheel spacers, and removed the remains of the wheel well liners in the front.

I'm starting to consider building or adapting an off-road bumper front and rear.
 

KJowner

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Your problems are just beginning if you bought a Landy..... The Brits aren't known for building durable 4x4s (anymore)
The Freelander Diesel is supposed to be the most reliable so fingers crossed!
 

sota

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Ok quickie question.
Getting ready to buy new tires.
Currently running 245/70R16 on a set of OG MOABs.
Still have the uncorrectable speedo error on the jeep.
Switching to 245/75R16 would get most of the error removed.
However am I in danger of rubbing, even with the "lift" on the jeep as in the sig?
 

CherokeeLiberty

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Ok quickie question.
Getting ready to buy new tires.
Currently running 245/70R16 on a set of OG MOABs.
Still have the uncorrectable speedo error on the jeep.
Switching to 245/75R16 would get most of the error removed.
However am I in danger of rubbing, even with the "lift" on the jeep as in the sig?
I have those tires on no lift and have no rubbing issues. The speedo is still 5mph fast, too.
 

duderz7

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Ok quickie question.
Getting ready to buy new tires.
Currently running 245/70R16 on a set of OG MOABs.
Still have the uncorrectable speedo error on the jeep.
Switching to 245/75R16 would get most of the error removed.
However am I in danger of rubbing, even with the "lift" on the jeep as in the sig?

265/70 16 is nearly identical in diameter as the 245/75 16 but the extra width fits the moab wheel better. I've had both sizes now and the 245 almost looked stretched, like the sidewall was reaching for rim if that makes sense. I did have to trim more fender liner away in the front with the 265. 245 still worked fine, I just prefer the look of the 265 on the wheel. You've got a lot more weight than most though, what's your ride height?
 

sota

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same as it was when I installed the "lift"?
like 1.5" over stock.
I'm thinking 265 would definitely cause me issues, so i'm staying away from that for now.
 

duderz7

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same as it was when I installed the "lift"?
like 1.5" over stock.
I'm thinking 265 would definitely cause me issues, so i'm staying away from that for now.
You're probably right, just offering my 2 cents.:)
 

burntkat

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Ok quickie question.
Getting ready to buy new tires.
Currently running 245/70R16 on a set of OG MOABs.
Still have the uncorrectable speedo error on the jeep.
Switching to 245/75R16 would get most of the error removed.
However am I in danger of rubbing, even with the "lift" on the jeep as in the sig?
What sig?
Best thing to do is look under the vehicle with the existing wheels and tires. See what your clearance is.

Tire sizing is not an exact science (as much as you might think it is, being expressed in millimeters and percentages and all.
 

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