springing sprung springs

Discussion in 'Lift Kit Discussion' started by XWrench3, Feb 26, 2021.

  1. XWrench3

    XWrench3 Full Access Member

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    so, i noticed a while ago, that the rear suspension has only about (calibrated eyeball measurement) 1" of movement before the bump stop starts getting a workout. and i do feel it hitting way more than i would like. i am pretty sure my kj has the original factory suspension, with 170,000 miles on it. i fully expect the front to be sagged as well. so, of course i would like more suspension travel. who wouldn't (at least until you hit 12" of travel). but i do NOT want any of the troubles that more travel / ride height brings. such as having to change pinion angles, and all the wonderful labor intensive things that i have so much trouble with. I'm 64, have a seriously degenerated spine, pinched nerves, bad hips, and a knee that needs to be overhauled. and, being on a fixed income, i have to do almost all work myself. i know i will need all 3 upper control arms to be replaced. so i am thinking that when warm weather gets here, changing springs and control arms at the same time would be a good idea. i really do not want to get very much stiffer on spring rates, because that would be hard on my back. i have not really looked at the shocks yet, but i suspect they are original as well. i will be staying with stock size (or very close to stock) tires. i think that if there is not a lot of extra work required, a 2" lift should be adequate for my needs. do i need longer shocks going to a 2" lift? i live in Michigan, so rock climbing is not something that i have seen much of. mostly sand, mud, and swamps. don't get me wrong, we do have some decent hills. but if your from out west, these will be nothing but speed bumps compared to the Rockies. i guess what i am looking for is recommendations on components, and of course i am on a tight budget (s.s.), Thanks!
     
  2. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Well first thing measure left front
    Middle of the wheel ( hub area ) to bottom of the flare
    Bet you are an inch to inch and a half lower than stock
    Have had them roll into my garage at 2 inches lower than stock with less than 80,000 miles on them

    SO, most use the 927 front springs which give you 2.5 inches of lift
    But if you want soft ( brand new my 04s springs were too weak and rode like total crap IMO )
    But first yes you need all 4 new shocks and springs
    OK so stock springs are rated at 310 lb in front
    OME 925 are rated at 350 but only give you about an inch of lift
    OME 926 are rated at 375 and give 1.75-2 inches
    OME 927s are rated at 400 and give 2.5

    Since you still want soft due to back complications I would do 926 from, with 947 rear springs
    if you wanted above 2 inches of lift could add some conduit nuts to front for 1/4-3/8 inch more lift

    something for you to start thinking about , and making a list of questions etc
    Hopefully that helps some

    By mentioning 3 UCAs I assume you are talking about the 2 front UCAs and the rear tri link , right ??
    after suspension work I would step up to 245-70-16 tires and be good
     
    David13 likes this.
  3. duderz7

    duderz7 Full Access Member

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    If you're wanting 2 inches from where you are now it may be the 925's you want up front, but we'll need to know that measurement Tom spoke of first.
     
  4. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    LOL from where he is now I'll bet 2 inches would just get him back to stock with that many miles on it
     
  5. duderz7

    duderz7 Full Access Member

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    Could be, but I know you wouldn't suggest stock springs.
     
  6. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    No never would I since they are so weak
    PLUS
    he stated "a 2 inch lift would be adequate for my needs "
     
  7. duderz7

    duderz7 Full Access Member

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    Right, I just wondered if he was meaning 2 inches from where he is, I suppose he will have to let us know.
     
  8. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Also, you can go 2-2.5 inches of new stock height and not have any of the issues that you mentioned above on these KJs
    As far as spring rates and your back, stock worn out, stacked coils , worn out shocks, terrible suspension will give you a worse ride than any of the mentioned OME springs
    When I bought my 04 brand new I couldn't stand the ride and my back is still in half way good shape for a ( almost ) 67 year old ;)
     
  9. XWrench3

    XWrench3 Full Access Member

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    sorry its been so long for a reply. i measured the front center of the hub, to the lower edge of the fender flare, and its at 17.5". the rear measures just short of 18". so besides sacked out, how far sacked out is the old girl? i know i can feel the rear hit the bump stop way more often than it should (on pavement). the rear shocks look new (no rust), which likely happened at the same time both lower control arms were replaced (they still have the Mopar sticker on them). but the front shocks look their age.
     
  10. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    You are 1.5 inches below new stock height
    Bet it rides like a road wagon, bouncing off the bumpstops all the way
    rear shocks may look new but with it bounching like that they are gone
     
  11. XWrench3

    XWrench3 Full Access Member

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    so shocks has always been something that i have just guessed at. and usually selected wrong. i have made the mistake of buying "stock dampening" shocks before. and IMO, that means they do almost nothing. and i have bought heavy duty springs that ride like a buckboard wagon until they got 20k on them to loosen them up. decades ago, (i don't remember who) made the perfect shock. ot had a "bypass area in the center of the shock that gave it a very smooth ride where the suspension sat at normal ride height = and minus 1.5" either way. then they got progressively firmer the further the suspension traveled. i remember the advertising used a diagram where it showed an hourglass ti illustrate how it worked (though i doubt that was the actual design of the shocks. my dad had a set of them put on his Ford LTD, and loved them. something like that would be perfect, at least i think so. as far as springs go, i would love to get some recommendations. just remember 2 things, 1) my back is going from bad to worse (surgeons actually do NOT want to operate on me! and 2) I'm on a TIGHT (s.s. disability) fixed income. so im on a pretty tight budget.
     
  12. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    ANYTHING is going to be better riding than what you have now for sure
    If no lift I would go with a full OME kit with 925 front and 947 rear springs, that would include the OME shocks on all 4 corners
    It would ride way better than it ever did brand new
    It will give you about an inch over new stock height ( or 2.5 inches of lift from where you are sagged down to now )
    you can go cheaper but will be right back where you are now really with a bad ride, poor handling etc
    The OME springs and shocks are very well made , ride is very very good
     
  13. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Follow up, if you bought most any type of springs back in the 70s-80s they just made them to give height and did not care about how they rode, this is why they rode like a buckboard
    Springs like OME are designed for the vehicle they are going on, giving not only a bit more height ( depending on which springs you go with ) and more importantly overall ride and handling way better than stock
    Then the shocks are designed to compliment the springs
    Only two kinds of shocks I would ever run or even consider advising someone to get and those are either OME or Bilstein
    I'm just a bit of a snob when it comes to suspensions having ripped out many springs and shocks out of brand new vehicles that I have bought and upgraded due to the cheap springs and shocks most come with.
    Only new vehicle I did not upgrade was a 1998 Ford NASCAR Edition , it was lowered with Roush aftermarket springs and shocks and Roush supplied a few other items
    The OME I suggested above are rated at 350 lb front, just what they should of been from the factory, ( stock are 310 )
     
  14. Mark R

    Mark R New Member

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    Tom, if you want to keep the stock height, can you use OME 2926 coil spring in the front? Every website I have visited shows that the 2925 coil springs are unavailable. While I can't confirm this, my hypothesis is that they aren't making the 2925 springs anymore. If the OME 2926 doesn't work, is there a different brand you would recommend?
     
  15. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    The 926s will give you about an inch or so over new stock height

    hardly noticeable beside one with "brand new" stock suspension
     
  16. Mark R

    Mark R New Member

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    Thanks for the quick response. Just to confirm, 926s in the front and 947s in the back would work then? I'll also be upgrading to Bilstein shocks while I'm at it.
     
  17. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes that will work
    stock shocks should work for you all around, rears may be a bit short if going off camber a lot depends on where all you'll take it

    I'm running stock length with 947s on the 05 but it never sees anything but pavement or rear lawn LOL
     
  18. Mark R

    Mark R New Member

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    Hmmmm, it mainly stays on pavement, but I do take it off-roading some. I don't do any bouldering, but I will take it down some pretty rough forest roads. Should I upgrade to longer shocks like the OME 132-L or the 60069s?
     
  19. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    The 132Ls are for 3 inch lifts and higher
    The 6069s are basically stock, just a bit longer but should work well for you