Intermediate shaft and cv.

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BjBnet

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now things are starting to make some sense! pictures speak a thousand words!!
hopefully i can get a chance to go to the auto hobby shop and remove it and send some pictures of what i find.

But first i have to make sure that its not coming from my brakes!
Hurry so I can say I was right :happy175:

if it is the brakes though, don't bother telling me :smokin:
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Hey BJ, did you regear to 4:10's when you went to the 245/75's? Curious how tall I can go before I need to tear into the differentials...:grd:

Bob
 

Jake.Ski

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put it this way, it makes me feel good when I can suggest something to someone and it turns out to be the solution. I've gotten tons of help here from everyone and I'd like to think I'm paying it forward in a way. :happy160:

I hear you on that!
 

Jake.Ski

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so today i jacked up the jeep, turned on the engine, firmly applied the brakes and shut off the vehicle. The tires spun no problem...

Next i removed the caliper and rotor then the 36mm nut that is in the middle of the hub assembly.

Then i popped out the upper and lower ball joints and pulled the whole spindle assembly away and the cv came with it. I removed the cv from the hub assembly and there was no rust and looked brand new!

Now i tried removing the whole cv and intermediate shaft. It starting to come out as a whole then got stuck in between the 2 bars that attach to the lower control arm and the shock assembly (I think its called a clevis.) Not sure on that one though! So i could not pull out the whole assembly because the cv boot kept getting caught in those bars.

Now i have no clue on how to remove that whole unit to see if it rusted or rounded off. Maybe i missed a simple step but from what it looks like do i have to remove the shock and lower a arm assembly??
 

rockymountain

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I had too remove the whole shock assembly because the intermediate shaft was stuck to it. I couldn't bent it down under the shock. That was after I removed the clevis, so yes you need to remove the clevis or you won't go anywhere fast. Just take out the bottom bolt and then loosen the top. Take it off. If the clevis is still too tight around the bottom of the shock, put that bolt in from the otherside and tighten it enough to spread apart the clevis, then its easy peasy.
 

Ry' N Jen

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Hey BJ, did you regear to 4:10's when you went to the 245/75's? Curious how tall I can go before I need to tear into the differentials...:grd:

Bob


245-75-16's is the limit.
Even then your Rig will still hunt for gears when loaded with gear and camping equipment when on inclines and the extra heat gets generated in the ****** when off roading.
4:10's and 245-75-16's is a really good combo.
Next set of rubber will be 265-75-16 M/T R's...
 

Jake.Ski

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I had too remove the whole shock assembly because the intermediate shaft was stuck to it. I couldn't bent it down under the shock. That was after I removed the clevis, so yes you need to remove the clevis or you won't go anywhere fast. Just take out the bottom bolt and then loosen the top. Take it off. If the clevis is still too tight around the bottom of the shock, put that bolt in from the otherside and tighten it enough to spread apart the clevis, then its easy peasy.

Ok well that makes sense! I just wasnt sure if i could just remove that so i waited.

Since the intermediate shaft was rusted to the cv joint, could that be my problem? I still need to take out the whole shaft so then i can see the end of the intermediate shaft.
 

rockymountain

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Ok well that makes sense! I just wasnt sure if i could just remove that so i waited.

Since the intermediate shaft was rusted to the cv joint, could that be my problem? I still need to take out the whole shaft so then i can see the end of the intermediate shaft.

You won't know until you get it out. The end to be concerned about is the end that goes into the CV joint. If it is rusted together it's good that you are changing it and should take care of the problem. The end that in the axle housing will look new still since its out of the weather, so to speak.
 

Jake.Ski

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ok, well when i get it out eventually i will try to seperate the two.

One more question kind of off topic, but should the wheel bearing spin completely free or does it have a little resistance?
 

Jake.Ski

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You won't know until you get it out. The end to be concerned about is the end that goes into the CV joint. If it is rusted together it's good that you are changing it and should take care of the problem. The end that in the axle housing will look new still since its out of the weather, so to speak.

So once I get the shaft and CV all the way out how will I know if I need to replace it?
 

Jake.Ski

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i just hit 81450 miles.
inner joint side you mean the side that is closest to the diff?
 
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