Shot intermediate shaft?

[RenKJ]

Is my intermediate shaft shot? Or does this extending out mean my differential could be damaged? I'm assuming I need to replace intermediate and cv on this side?

Checking if people can advise what I'm in for

Is my diff likely empty of gear oil?

 

[DadOSix]

I am doing this very thing, while replacing the right side ball joints. I have known the shaft seal was leaking, but it was a ‘get to it someday’ thing. Now, I had the knuckle off and pulled the cv axle, because, why not —- The inner boot was torn when the jeep came down after the ball joint failed.

Anyway, a groove is worn (ground) into the shaft and the housing is dry as a bone in the axle tube. I had planned on replacing the bearing and seal while the cv shaft is out, but now need to find either a replacement intermediate shaft - or - an offset bearing that would allow the damaged intermediate shaft to be used, but the bearing sits back about 3/4 inch from the damaged area.

We used to do this years back on rear axle applications, but I can not find a mention of the repair bearing for this application.

 

[DadOSix]

Is my intermediate shaft shot? Or does this extending out mean my differential could be damaged? I'm assuming I need to replace intermediate and cv on this side?

Checking if people can advise what I'm in for

Is my diff likely empty of gear oil?

- if it is dry, count on the shaft being damaged. There is a good parts diagram on Crown Automotive that shows the exploded view, but no prices as they sell only to ‘trade (pro shops) accounts’.

So - plan on the cv, intermediate, bearing, seal.

If you have never had it down this far, you will need to remove the clevis from shock and lower control arm to allow the cv shaft to come thru.

 

[KJowner]

- if it is dry, count on the shaft being damaged. There is a good parts diagram on Crown Automotive that shows the exploded view, but no prices as they sell only to ‘trade (pro shops) accounts’.

So - plan on the cv, intermediate, bearing, seal.

If you have never had it down this far, you will need to remove the clevis from shock and lower control arm to allow the cv shaft to come thru.

I wonder if you could just insert a spacer between the bearing and seal to move the seal out a fraction to give it a new surface to run on?
The other thing worth a look is a speedy sleeve to recover the surface.

 

[DadOSix]

I wonder if you could just insert a spacer between the bearing and seal to move the seal out a fraction to give it a new surface to run on?
The other thing worth a look is a speedy sleeve to recover the surface.

Possibly. The seal surface looks decent. Concern is the shaft where the bearing runs is considerably worn from lack of lube. I will try and find a pic of it.

 

[KJowner]

Possibly. The seal surface looks decent. Concern is the shaft where the bearing runs is considerably worn from lack of lube. I will try and find a pic of it.

Ahh, that's a bit more tricky.

 

[u2slow]

We're you able to separate the CV from the intermediate?

This has been my trouble - both times inseparable because the splines are fubar'd. Intermediate shafts are available. My last one was from summit racing.

On another note, our 2005 has plastic bushings. Ordering the replacement part from Spicer got me caged needle bearings instead. Happier with that.

 

[DadOSix]

We're you able to separate the CV from the intermediate?

This has been my trouble - both times inseparable because the splines are fubar'd. Intermediate shafts are available. My last one was from summit racing.

On another note, our 2005 has plastic bushings. Ordering the replacement part from Spicer got me caged needle bearings instead. Happier with that.

Yes. I hold em by the intermediate shaft and after spraying the splined area with FreeAll rust eater stuff, soak it a while then smack the inner cv cup downward while holding the shaft. Usually 3-4 good whacks separates the assembly.

Mine is the roller bearing, so unless i can find or fabricate an axle saver bearing, will have to fibd a new or used shaft.

 

[u2slow]

You're luckier than me on the spline. Mine were not rusty, but worn in manner that it behaved like a wobble-extension. Have still not been able to separate them.

I don't imagine you will find an intact used one.

Edit: found a link to a new one including the Spicer part #

2002-2007 Jeep KJ Liberty RH Front Inner Axle Shaft 4X4 Dana 30 | C&M Gearworks

 

[DadOSix]

You're luckier than me on the spline. Mine were not rusty, but worn in manner that it behaved like a wobble-extension. Have still not been able to separate them.

I don't imagine you will find an intact used one.

Edit: found a link to a new one including the Spicer part #

2002-2007 Jeep KJ Liberty RH Front Inner Axle Shaft 4X4 Dana 30 | C&M Gearworks

Thanks for that link!

If there were still a true machinist here in town, I would just take it to the shop and have him either weld it up and turn it back to spec, or fit a sleeve over the damage and move on.

There are, old style, axle savers for heavier gear like GM rear ends. We used such on my dad's 80's caddy that tore up the axle - in essence, the 'saver' is an offset bearing ( fits further down the axle tube, and an integrated seal to ride where stock was. Nifty idea that saved quite a few owners big bucks, even back then.!

 

[RenKJ]

My mechanic ended up needing to work new splines into the shaft to get it to work still but he warned me I shouldnt gas it in 4x4 as its on its "last legs"

If I get a replacement intermediate shaft next time it pops out would he be able t o get that in and solve the issue as that shaft would be going all the way to the diff?

 

[KJowner]

Yes, as long as the splines on the outer section aren't damaged if it's a loose fit, you may have to replace that too.
Make sure its well greased when you replace it so it doesn't rot again.

 

[RenKJ]

Yes, as long as the splines on the outer section aren't damaged if it's a loose fit, you may have to replace that too.
Make sure its well greased when you replace it so it doesn't rot again.

If the splines the intermediate shaft mates with are in rough shape am I looking at a whole diff replacement?

 

[KJowner]

If the splines the intermediate shaft mates with are in rough shape am I looking at a whole diff replacement?

Not if we are talking about the same bit! The long driveshaft is in two bits, the joint is splined, this is the bit that normally gives problems, good old Jeep assembled it dry so it rots. The other end of the shaft plugs into the diff, this end runs in the diff's oil bath so it's normally immaculate when you pull it out.
Replacement just involves buying a full shaft and fitting it in place of the original one + topping up the diff to replace the oil that you loose when you do it.

 

[u2slow]

If the splines the intermediate shaft mates with are in rough shape am I looking at a whole diff replacement?

Not usually

One end mates to the CV axle. Other end mates to the differential side gear. Both replaceable.

 

[RenKJ]

Just ordered an intermediate from www.tdotperformance.ca, crossing my fingers they actually have it

with that in my parts stack I don't have to worry about gassing it in 4x4 during the winter lol

 

[Celticlady]

Parts Geek has the front inner axle shaft (intermediate) Don't confuse this shaft with the transmission intermediate shaft.

Crown part number 2292-03311859​

Oem # 5066057AA

Replace the seal. Good luck getting the old one out. I used the "drill holes and put screws in. Pull out with vise grip slide hammer. The new seal is real tight. I used a small amount of colored rtv around the edge. When the seal is flush the rtv squeezes out.

The shaft splines and seal area are worn.

There is a bushing just inside of the seal. Your call to replace that.

Summit and ebay have the same crown part. $125

 

[u2slow]

There is a bushing just inside of the seal. Your call to replace that.

Definitely change those!

That's the main cause of the intermediate shaft spline failing.

I found plastic ones in mine, and put in the proper roller needle bearing replacements (Spicer).

 

[jcoreyw]

Regarding the "proper roller needle bearing replacements", I did that but had excessive noise after a while. I didn't replace it because the plastic bushing failed- I just did it based on forum advise, since I already had it apart. When looking at the bushing style PN, I realized the metal bearing part was deprecated by the engineered plastic part. I went back to that when I needed it apart again, and I'm happier with the plastic part. It's your choice though.

 

[mercdudecbr600]

Answer to op: I think it’s a relatively normal cv position to have the passenger side cv axle sticking out away from the housing like that. The clearances are somewhat relative to how the diff is bolted into the mount - could be more or less outboard - and that would affect how much clearance there is. Mine sits around 1/4-3/8” of gap. What you do want to check is if it’s fully engaged into the diff and the intermediate shaft is riding on the bearing correctly.