Central Missouri - Front Hub assembly help?

[lostinthemidwest]

Hi all,

I married into a 02 Libby Sport /w HD towing package, and I've been trying to do a frontend suspension/brake overhaul, and it's taking a lot longer than I expected, mainly due to rust!

I live in Central Missouri (Columbia to be exact), and in town I have NAPA, Oreillys, Autozone, Sears and Harbor Freight.

1. My hub is rusted in place pretty badly, and looking at this howto, he used a hub puller /w slide hammer to extract the hub, does anyone know where I can rent/buy it? Autozone's loaner axle puller (27032) is just a hair too wide to fit. Anyone have luck with Oreilly's or NAPA's loan puller? If not, what about Harbor Freight or Amazon? Part numbers, please.
2. I used the e14 bit from Lisle (26280), but it doesn't seem to fit the hub assembly bolthead very well, does anyone know of another brand that fits that particular bolt better?
3. I managed to round off some of the heads from the hub assembly bolts (Mopar 06503088), and my local dealer wants $8 each for them! Can anyone suggest a cheaper source? Lesson learned: PB blast the heck out of the bolts front and rear, use a pick to clean the protruding threads and bolthead, use a ballpeen hammer to tap the socket firmly into the bolthead, and stop the moment you feel the head slipping even the slightest bit.
4. I want to do a write up of what I did (Midwest salt edition without a hoist), what is the 'best' howto writeup, so I can imitate its style?
5. The bushing on the lower clevis fork is starting to go bad, can someone please suggest an affordable bushing press kit that is the right size? Do any of the auto chain loaners fit?

Thanks!

 

[uss2defiant]

Sorry but I can only help with no 3.

use avondalewholesaleparts.com for all your mopar orders.
cheapest I've found so far and free shipping. Ships from Phx AZ.

your part costs $4.56

 

[CactusJacked]

Ummmm, if you haven't gotten the bolts off yet, how do you know the bearing hub is rusted in place? I live in the rust belt too. When I replaced mine, I wire brushed, soaked, and heated the bolts before even taking a wrench to them. But the hub wasn't a pain to remove once the bolts were off. May have taken a little prying and/or hammering, but definitely didn't need a puller. Without rust buildup, they are a slip-fit to the spindle.

 

[dude1116]

My hub was stuck to my CV so I REALLY needed a puller. So I suggest it if you can get your hands on it.

 

[CactusJacked]

My hub was stuck to my CV so I REALLY needed a puller.

I used a hammerfer for that, after cranking my nut flush to the shaft.

 

[dude1116]

Oh I did that too. It wouldn't break lose easily.

 

[profdlp]

I used a hammerfer for that, after cranking my nut flush to the shaft.

I bet you did. {snicker}

:happy175:

 

[nocTurNalX]

Welcome! No real experience here with those stuff stuck on rust.

 

[Leeann]

I used a Gearhead E14 from Pep Boys. Fit perfectly and didn't slip, even with a 24" breaker bar attached.

Spray the hell out of the bolt heads and threads with PB Blaster, use a wire brush on both sides. Hit the heads with a propane torch if necessary, then spray again with PB (it helps suck it into the threads).

I didn't use a slide hammer; I have one now from Harbor Freight, but didn't then. I used my 2-jaw puller to get the hub off after spraying the axle end with PB yet again. Put good tension on the puller and whack it approximately 3 times with a BFH and it will come off.

My Liberty spent the first 79,000 miles in Michigan, so I know from rust.