Another Lift Kit Question

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tommudd

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Yes, you are correct. 2.5" lift. I've tried to keep all my posts about my lift to this one thread. I didn't think about the regearing factor. I thought maybe I'd get away with the extra .5" Speaking of putting different tires on in general. Can I find a different speedo gear that can be easily changed out to keep mph correct?
No easy speedo gear ,
And while a 1/2 inch or so does not sound like much, it does in regards to rubbing, bending over the pinch weld ( the right way ) etc
Whole giving you sizes , we give what works best
If you want to go bigger , wider, different then good luck
We all or some of us went through it back in the early 2000s finding out what worked best
Before the 04 had 60,000 miles I had 4 different size tires on it (initially lifted before it was 5 months old, started ordering parts second day of ownership )
Good luck
 

duderz7

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Not so much the mph as the mpg and power loss. You'll effectively make every gear higher which will make the trans and engine work harder. 0.5 inch makes a bigger difference than one would expect.
 

streetsnake

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Hi Everyone. So I'm fighting with installing my rear-end lift currently, bathing the rear links in anti-seize so I can drop my rear end to get my springs in. Ugh. Got a call from the shop that was putting my front strut together. He said that the strut didn't seem like it was the correct length so he called bilstein. They said that the strut I have is stock height and I need a different one. The one I got was the 24-139168, the one I was told to get I believe. They said I need the 24-282642. Can someone enlighten me please. Have a bad start to the evening.
 

tommudd

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Hi Everyone. So I'm fighting with installing my rear-end lift currently, bathing the rear links in anti-seize so I can drop my rear end to get my springs in. Ugh. Got a call from the shop that was putting my front strut together. He said that the strut didn't seem like it was the correct length so he called bilstein. They said that the strut I have is stock height and I need a different one. The one I got was the 24-139168, the one I was told to get I believe. They said I need the 24-282642. Can someone enlighten me please. Have a bad start to the evening.
Stupid people

You have the right front shock , they just need to know how to install it
Been using them on the front of KJs and KKs for years
The 25-282642 is that darn stupid shock that Bilstein started making but never should have
NEVER use it , it is supposed to give you lift but what it does is puts perload on the springs which is bad
I wrote up a post that is in the KJ lift section regarding them
 

tommudd

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Anyone thinking or wanting to use the Bilstein 5100 adjustable front shocks , think again
If you do want to use them, not sure why but,.....
You should not install them any more than sitting at the 0 mark, that is it
Any higher and it will create a disaster , degrading the springs within a few months
It preloads the springs which is very bad much like cheap spacer lifts do
These shocks should of never been built in the first place
4600s are cheaper , are the same internally , and are built for the KJs/KKs to keep the same spring perch at stock distances
Jeepinjarhead and I have discussed this and just today I seen a discussion suggesting someone use them
Please do not , unless you want to spend the extra money , set them at 0 just to say you have them
Questions ?
 

tommudd

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Okay. I’ll go there tomorrow and talk with him. Thx.
Yes they will work , and that is what you want the stock shock and explain that the ones they want you to use will put a preload on the springs and make them go bad soon.
NOW you can use that shock that they suggest, but set it at zero
But both shocks are the same internally so why would you buy it
 

streetsnake

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Ok. New question. How do I drill the hole where the hockey pucks go? I can't get a good up/down angle on it. I've tried to push the rearend down some now that I got the rear tire and links out but still not good enough. Do I need to do something else? Maybe something with the control arms? Told you I wasn't very good at this. Ugh
 

lfhoward

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With the Jeep on jack stands at the frame rails, and with springs and sway bar links removed and shocks disconnected, use your jack to jack up the opposite side of the rear axle that you want to work on. That should force down the spring perch on your side so you can drill it.

Or you could get yourself a 90° drill adapter.

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streetsnake

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With the Jeep on jack stands at the frame rails, and with springs and sway bar links removed and shocks disconnected, use your jack to jack up the opposite side of the rear axle that you want to work on. That should force down the spring perch on your side so you can drill it.

Or you could get yourself a 90° drill adapter.

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Okay. I’ll do that. I was afraid I may damage something.
 

tommudd

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Can also use factory jack on one side between end of diff and frame to push that side down
Drill hole in the center , after that install spring THEN install the hockey pucks
otherwise you'll create twice the work for yourself
 

streetsnake

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So back to the front strut assembly. Will this shop be able to do it if they don’t have a spring compressor machine? It’s a new off road shop in my town so I was giving them a shot.
 

tommudd

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So back to the front strut assembly. Will this shop be able to do it if they don’t have a spring compressor machine? It’s a new off road shop in my town so I was giving them a shot.
No , they need a VERY STRONG spring compressor
The cheap bu tt ones from parts stores etc won't touch them
The original springs are rated at 310 lb brand new so not bad, but compressing a 400 lb spring ( OME 927s ) takes a lot of pressure
If they are new , and do not have a really good pneumatic spring compressor , go elsewhere quick
I have personally seen a spring come out of a cheap compressor years ago and take a lot of my buddys head off , nothing you want to be involved with
 

streetsnake

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So what did they say ?
Or did you just take them to another shop that has the right tools/spring compressor ?
I have them. He didn't understand using a stock height shock with a lifted spring. He said once you compress it all the way down, it'd ride super stiff. ugh.
 

streetsnake

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Okay. Looking at this pic, what have I done wrong. I still can’t get to the top of the spring perch even when jacking up one side.
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lfhoward

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Tom, did you have a 90° drill adapter when we did my rear bumpstops? Seems like it just worked.
 

lfhoward

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Okay. Looking at this pic, what have I done wrong. I still can’t get to the top of the spring perch even when jacking up one side.
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I am not seeing anything wrong either. I asked Tom above because he did mine at his shop. Maybe we disconnected the track bar? Is that what is preventing additional droop? Mine is a JBA extended trackbar so maybe with the additional length I didn’t need to unbolt it. Anyhow, that’s what I would try next. Put your floor jack under the diff and support it while you do, then lower the whole thing.
 

streetsnake

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I am not seeing anything wrong either. I asked Tom above because he did mine at his shop. Maybe we disconnected the track bar? Is that what is preventing additional droop? Mine is a JBA extended trackbar so maybe with the additional length I didn’t need to unbolt it. Anyhow, that’s what I would try next. Put your floor jack under the diff and support it while you do, then lower the whole thing.
That’s the only other thing I can think of. Before I go back out to **** myself again, I’ll wait for some other input. Ugh
 
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