derekj
Full Access Member
New front shocks showed up - just waiting for the rears.
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What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
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Do you have any lift out back, and if it's 3" or so, what shocks are you running....
Wait.. These don't appear to be Struts for the front... Have I gone stupid?
derekj
Full Access Member
I have a 2" lift on my truck - rear shocks are the longer Bilstein #33-185859. The front is technically not a strut but a shock with a coil over spring.
CherokeeLiberty
Full Access Member
Idk if you’re aware, but these KJs are very high performance machines. Very sporty. D&S rotors are a must.
I have the same thoughts on space for the water to go.
What part number you using on the front, which springs F/R did you go with.
Please explain how the front isn't a strut....
derekj
Full Access Member
Traditionally a strut is attached to the steering knuckle and helps support the knuckle and also turns with the knuckle versus a shock which only helps control the up down movement of the suspension.
derekj
Full Access Member
The fronts are #24-139168 - my truck has the H&R springs with a few conduit nuts up front for an extra 1/2" lift.
Nice-Yeah I seen the ARB ones, those look cool I like the drain and fill plugs. I missed a deal to get one from a damaged lost misdirected freight. Do you know how thick those are. The one I was looking at, not that I would need a beefy one was from RuffStuff, see pic. its 3/8 think welded, but it's pricey like $150 not as expensive as ARB's. "The 3/8" plate steel cover is bent 8 ways and welded to a massive 1/2" ring, giving unmatched strength and sealing performance—perfect for off-road abuse or heavy-duty daily use." Nice, but doesn't have the cool looking design.
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profdlp
Circling The Drain
I have the red one. You will like it.
Id have to measure it to find out exactly, but the ARB diff cover is close to 3/8" thick made from nodular iron. While it is THICK, it is NOT high profile. IMO, it is extremely well designed and built.
Like @profdlp said, I bought it mainly for the mag drain plug and dipstick, but am well pleased with the structural build quality of it, in addition to its fine appearance. I DO think the over accentuated curved casing, right behind the ring and pinion, will help keep the ring and pinion well lubed without excessive aeration (though obviously I am only guessing about the aeration part)
Hers a quote from ARB (obviously its marketing but IMO accurate)
Like @profdlp said, I bought it mainly for the mag drain plug and dipstick, but am well pleased with the structural build quality of it, in addition to its fine appearance. I DO think the over accentuated curved casing, right behind the ring and pinion, will help keep the ring and pinion well lubed without excessive aeration (though obviously I am only guessing about the aeration part)
Hers a quote from ARB (obviously its marketing but IMO accurate)
- High tensile solid nodular iron structure (tougher and harder than solid carbon steel) protects the differential and ring & pinion set from the obstacle impact hazards of completion rock crawling, or extreme off road trails.
- Computer optimized cross brace design adds more than 1300 Nm/deg [960 ft-lb] of torsional rigidity to the entire axle assembly.
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Country2003KJ
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Okay, not a big deal but I replaced all OEM lug nuts. Got tired of carrying two different size lug wrenches and using two different size compact sockets. Small but effective fix.
That's a McPherson strut you're describing. Rest assured, the KJ DOES use front struts. At leaat my 05 does. They aren't a McPherson strut, no, in that it's not an alignment/structural part of the assemblage.
You have a Chrysler 8.25, looks like
I'd lost the cooling fan a few months back - assumed it was due to the bad part I'd bought. Replaced with a Four Seasons part... And I still have no blower.
Fuse in the undeehood, and relay, appear to be fine. I was able to swap the relay with another relay for the rad fan, without the problem going to the radiator fan (so I call the relays good). Fuse looks good (I'm aware that doesn't tell the whole story), I'm waiting for my meter to arrive to verify. Don't have the proper puller for these cartridge fuses, and experience shows me they like to break if you don't baby them. Will replace when I can get a proper puller.
The resistor board is also ew (6 Mos ago, replaced when I replaced the motor the first time... But I'm aware it could be bad, too.
What else do I need to be looking at, that fits the symptom of NO blower motor activity at all, with a new, quality unit installed?
I will of course test the motor supply once I get the meter..... I don't think (but there I go thinking...) I'm going to see 12v getting to the motor...
Fuse in the undeehood, and relay, appear to be fine. I was able to swap the relay with another relay for the rad fan, without the problem going to the radiator fan (so I call the relays good). Fuse looks good (I'm aware that doesn't tell the whole story), I'm waiting for my meter to arrive to verify. Don't have the proper puller for these cartridge fuses, and experience shows me they like to break if you don't baby them. Will replace when I can get a proper puller.
The resistor board is also ew (6 Mos ago, replaced when I replaced the motor the first time... But I'm aware it could be bad, too.
What else do I need to be looking at, that fits the symptom of NO blower motor activity at all, with a new, quality unit installed?
I will of course test the motor supply once I get the meter..... I don't think (but there I go thinking...) I'm going to see 12v getting to the motor...
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