What did you do to your jeep today?

[duderz7]

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here's mine, it just pays honors to my first Jeep. A 1971 Wagoneer.

 

[lfhoward]

Contemplating tomorrow’s project… order of operations?

- jack up the back end, support frame rail with jack stands
- remove rear wheels
- lower the rear axle
- remove shocks and sway bar links
- lower more, then remove springs (bump stops are shot, so not really in the way)
- remove old hardware holding in lower bump stops that has rusted into an unrecognizable lump, then re-drill spring perches
- install upper bump stops
- install new spring isolators, top and bottom
- install rear springs
- install lower bump stops by slotting hockey pucks through the springs, then bolting them down
- raise rear axle
- reinstall shocks and sway bar links with the axle supporting the weight of the vehicle
- reinstall rear wheels
- lower the vehicle

Am I missing anything? Thanks for your input.

 

[derekj]

Had a bit of a fun adventure last week - a bunch of us took a barge up one our local lakes for 4 hours to explore a bunch of old logging roads. Was a fun 5 days and got to explore a bunch of roads that have not seen traffic in quite a few years.

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[LFX1]

Had a bit of a fun adventure last week - a bunch of us took a barge up one our local lakes for 4 hours to explore a bunch of old logging roads. Was a fun 5 days and got to explore a bunch of roads that have not seen traffic in quite a few years.

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I can almost hear the "Oh Canada" singing in the background, what beautiful views.

 

[PNWJeeper]

That looks like a load of fun!

 

[burntkat]

Very cool, and well done sir!

 

[burntkat]

Contemplating tomorrow’s project… order of operations?

- jack up the back end, support frame rail with jack stands
- remove rear wheels
- lower the rear axle
- remove shocks and sway bar links
- lower more, then remove springs (bump stops are shot, so not really in the way)
- remove old hardware holding in lower bump stops that has rusted into an unrecognizable lump, then re-drill spring perches
- install upper bump stops
- install new spring isolators, top and bottom
- install rear springs
- install lower bump stops by slotting hockey pucks through the springs, then bolting them down
- raise rear axle
- reinstall shocks and sway bar links with the axle supporting the weight of the vehicle
- reinstall rear wheels
- lower the vehicle

Am I missing anything? Thanks for your input.

Better option...
Install an AirLift (airbag) kit out back. Costs about $100, makes the rear end ride MUCH better.

I did my install after doing a spacer lift. Basically replaced the isolators with 2.5" lift block isolators. This does leave a hole in the middle where the factory bump stop would go, hut I resolved that by cutting circles of appropriate size (2.5?) out of a cheap second-hand UHWMP cutting board from a restaurant supply store locally, and used the to take up the space, giving the normal/factory size AirLift springs a place to ride. They are plumbed together (ie, tee'd together) to one fill valve which replaces a license plate bolt. One could also plumb each bag separately (probably the better way, to be honest), and/or to an on board ist or CO2 tank.

Makes the rear springs progressive, meaning they ride much better because the more you compress them, the higher the rate goes.

I am such a fan of the air bags, I'm now revamping my S10 SAS to go air over leafs...if I don't lose my mind and go 3-link up front and triangulated 4-link out back.

 

[lfhoward]

Life got in the way and I haven’t done the rear shocks/springs/bumpstops yet. Maybe this coming weekend.

 

[PNWJeeper]

Opening day of fall razor clam season yesterday with an evening tide that coincided with an absolutely beautiful sunset.

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[derekj]

That looks like a load of fun!

It was a good trip!

 

[Gyro]

New rear CV on the front drive shaft.
18 years that rear boot lasted, and then it didn't.

Gyro

 

[seafish]

Spent 3 hours NOT fixing the Jeep..rather I took her apart and then had put her back together again with the same problem.

That said, I DID find out why the parking brake handle was pulling straight up and the parking brake wasn't working at all.

HINT …it was NOT the stupid dual cable, dual spring, clutch/torque limiting design of the handle…

Instead it was this --

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ALSO inspected front and rear brakes and decided it was close enough to get new pads all the way around. Got 50k on the fronts and for some reason LESS on the rears.

Got a good deal on Akebono ProACT ceramic pads from Rockauto ($30/axle) and a new set of parking brake shoes for $18.

 

[LFX1]

Spent 3 hours NOT fixing the Jeep..rather I took her apart and then had put her back together again with the same problem.

That said, I DID find out why the parking brake handle was pulling straight up and the parking brake wasn't working at all.

HINT …it was NOT the stupid dual cable, dual spring, clutch/torque limiting design of the handle…

Instead it was this --

You must be registered for see images attach

ALSO inspected front and rear brakes and decided it was close enough to get new pads all the way around. Got 50k on the fronts and for some reason LESS on the rears.

Got a good deal on Akebono ProACT ceramic pads from Rockauto ($30/axle) and a new set of parking brake shoes for $18.

Yeah when I got my Liberty, I learned to appreciate my old 71 FJ40's emergency brake it was right off the drive line not in the wheels. I use to think that was a pain, then I had to deal with the liberty internal pads, and when the shields on the back started to rust, they make horrible noise and to replace them you would think they would make split shields, I had to pull the axles to put new ones on.

 

[seafish]

I learned to appreciate my old 71 FJ40's emergency brake it was right off the drive line not in the wheels.

Ya, thats how my old forklift parking brake works … 9" cylinder at part of the driveline with a clamping brake shoe AROUND it…super easy to work on and adjust if needed.

 

[seafish]

Just a quick bump for the thread I posted here —

Controversia Lubrication fluids for Giddyup …. Need advice … PLEASE and Thank you !!!

Time for some 60k fluid chnages. ATF+4 in the AT and TC is easy!!! Here are the more controversial questions— ALL opinions welcome but please no fighting ;) … TIA!!! I live in a completely temperate climate with outdoor temperatures rarely below 44° and NEVER below 30° and then only...

www.jeepkj.com

 

[profdlp]

Somehow managed to get it started after it refused to allow me to pull into the garage last night.

 

[CherokeeLiberty]

I put it in the back garage, this weekend just to get it out of sight. It needs a seat belt buckle for the passenger seat. My wife does not appreciate the quirk of hitting the buckle until the button pops back up before she can actually buckle.

As for brakes, if I get another set of brakes on it, I’m getting drilled and slotted rotors from Rock Auto. Whenever my brakes get wet, they just don’t work. I figure maybe the fancy rotors could help.

 

[duderz7]

I put it in the back garage, this weekend just to get it out of sight. It needs a seat belt buckle for the passenger seat. My wife does not appreciate the quirk of hitting the buckle until the button pops back up before she can actually buckle.

As for brakes, if I get another set of brakes on it, I’m getting drilled and slotted rotors from Rock Auto. Whenever my brakes get wet, they just don’t work. I figure maybe the fancy rotors could help.

I think drilled and slotted is more about heat, allowing air to pas through, but logically seems like it might also give space for water and or debris go so the pads can make contact. I've considered them myself, but decided it wasn't worth it to me. I believe they wear quicker too.

 

[burntkat]

Ya, thats how my old forklift parking brake works … 9" cylinder at part of the driveline with a clamping brake shoe AROUND it…super easy to work on and adjust if needed.

This is roughly what I aim to do, off the 231 t-case, with an electric brake unit off a Tesla or similar electric e-brake (VW comes to mind).
Will post up when I have it all figured. I need to fab the bracket, figure out mount points, and the logic gates for the power to it. If at all possible, I want it to auto-apply on key removal and door open, without requiring constant voltage. Why? I have a manual transmission, and sometimes the jeep will need to be refired if it cuts off (usually within the first 15 miles of driving after extended battery removal/ECU reset. I'll usually do that with a quick turn of the key to the off position and then refire, if I'm not below 30mph...in which case I'd simply shift to second, pop the clutch and refire. But just in case I have a brain fart and remove the key, I don't want the e-brake to grab a handful of the ass end and get rearended.....

 

[seafish]

I think drilled and slotted is more about heat, allowing air to pas through, but logically seems like it might also give space for water and or debris go so the pads can make contact. I've considered them myself, but decided it wasn't worth it to me. I believe they wear quicker too.

This is all correct also AFAIK.

That said, after I wear out these existing rotors and the set of Akebono ceramic pads on putting on, Im gonna try a set of PowerStop Z23 pads and rotors with carbon fiber/ceramic pads, but NO drilled and slotted rotors/