Them's The Brakes

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jeepguy4276

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Nothing special needed for disc brakes and it's an easy job. Save for the lift and do the work yourself. Replace all 4 rotors, all pads, and hardware. Grease the caliper slides and clean stuff up. You'll be ok And it's a great learning experience.
 

CzarKJ

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I prefer NAPA pads and rotors. This could be a topic for huge debate but I am happy with the NAPA ultra premium rotors and adaptive one brake pads. I put the premium rotors and ultra premium pads on my mothers vehicle and she loves them. (Also drives like a Nascar drivers... beware in northwest CT)
 

LibertyTC

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Last time I used new rotors all the way around, but wanted to test ceramic pads up FRONT which did no stop all that great . So 15k later, I had the rotors turned as there was lots of beef on em, runout was fine, & installed semi-metallic pads, much better stopping power.
I am not sure what everyone uses for rotors, but I know up front I got made in USA quality rotors.
I still have the Napa ultra premium set up on rear they are ok.
 

boboborino

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What to buy and where to buy it?

I would go to your local reputable auto parts store and get the best that you are willing to pay, it doesn't have to be top o the line. They will lay out the Good/Better/Best for you .I've always been a middle of the line kind of guy, never went for the cheapest, never the most expensive.




Bert
 

TwoBobsKJ

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I prefer NAPA pads and rotors. This could be a topic for huge debate but I am happy with the NAPA ultra premium rotors and adaptive one brake pads. I put the premium rotors and ultra premium pads on my mothers vehicle and she loves them. (Also drives like a Nascar drivers... beware in northwest CT)

Last time I used new rotors all the way around, but wanted to test ceramic pads up FRONT which did no stop all that great . So 15k later, I had the rotors turned as there was lots of beef on em, runout was fine, & installed semi-metallic pads, much better stopping power.
I am not sure what everyone uses for rotors, but I know up front I got made in USA quality rotors.
I still have the Napa ultra premium set up on rear they are ok.

These the ones you are talking about?

https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/search/?q=N%3D2500003%2B5003800%2B200380370%2B10200700%2B2600304&catId=3.4&catIndex=App&isApplication=true

(Tell me if these links don't work. Sometimes search result look like garbage to anyone except the person who initially did the searching.)

I agree with the NAPA recommendations, Prof. The link you have shows several different rotors but for mine I went with the Reactive One rotors that are on the bottom of the page you linked to. They show no signs of warping and stop the KJ very quickly, even when towing my boat or utility trailer.

The last brake job I did I replaced the calipers, pads and rotors, along with the emergency brake shoes and hardware. Previously I'd used some drilled and slotted rotors and they were crap - the rotors warped and they didn't stop well at all.

As someone else mentioned earlier, start the job on Friday and begin taking things apart. If you feel uncomfortable with the project you have time to button it back up and take the Jeep and your parts to a shop to have them do it. But you're skilled enough to tackle the job easily. :waytogo:

Bob
 

JasonJ

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My main job for 7.5 years was brakes and suspension upgrades/ alignments etc , all day 5 days a week, never had to use anything bigger than a 2 pound hammer . Its all in knowing how to swing. Just like knocking the UBJ loose when doing a lift, had some guys that I was showing how to do a lift hit it ten times, I hit once and off !:icon_lol:

Very true... but I typically am a driveway mech, so swingin' space is at a premium. I find it easier for me to just use a hammer with more mass and whack it good once or twice from an awkward position.

When I worked at the dealership, things were different up on the lift.. LOTS of room to swing whatever you want under the car then!

None of my cars now have rotors that stuck, and any car I work on gets a bit of anti-seize on the hub face to stop that from occurring again.
 

jeepguy4276

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You can check out rockauto.com for the parts. Cheap prices and you can get good stuff. I bought a matched package there for my car and love them. I used napa on the jeep and they work great but do produce a fair amount of dust. Either way you'll have a good better best option. You can choose what works for you. I use rockauto for a lot of parts.
 

CalcityRenegade

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I have always went with Wagner QuickStop Ceramic pads and Wagner rotors. Never had issues and perform very well.
 

HoosierJeeper

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If you can to the tstat you can do brakes.

With just 70k, I bet just the fronts need to be done, maybe pads on the rear.

If the parking brake is working nicely, I would not touch it at all. I replaced all my stuff back there and it took the better part of months to finally get the ebrake working right again.
 

JeepJeepster

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Seems like my rears wore out around 70,000 but the fronts lasts a little longer.

Ive got napa ultra premium rotors on the rear and just regular napa rotors on the front. Adaptive one pads all around. The front rotors warped rather quickly, I wont be buying napa rotors again. Not sure if Im going to get them machined or just buy some new rotors.

What other rotors have people had good luck with besides wagner?
 

dude1116

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Seems like my rears wore out around 70,000 but the fronts lasts a little longer.

Ive got napa ultra premium rotors on the rear and just regular napa rotors on the front. Adaptive one pads all around. The front rotors warped rather quickly, I wont be buying napa rotors again. Not sure if Im going to get them machined or just buy some new rotors.

What other rotors have people had good luck with besides wagner?

Had the same experience. Only I have Ultra Premiums all around. They're all pretty warped already which is a shame.
 

tommudd

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Get MOPAR rotors then :shrug:
On the 04 it has the stock rear rotors and replaced the pads once in 221,000 miles.
Fronts since I had a " MOPAR KIT" that I took in with some other parts I installed it at 100,000 miles, still no issues at all on either end

OH the kit had new OEM pads and rotors

The 05 I just replaced all of them pads, rotors, hardware at 92,000 and they still had some running left in them. Used all NAPA parts on it

The 03 at 85,000 still has at least 10-12,000 to go I'd say and they're stock yet
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Always interesting to me how we get different results with the same manufacturers...

I put in all NAPA parts about 30K miles ago - four calipers, four rotors and four sets of pads. There's not a single pulse in the brake pedal and it stops just as well as the day I put them on.

Yet others have had poor results with NAPA. Bad quality control? Different driving styles? Different terrain (hilly vs. flat)? Dunno... :shrug:

Bob
 

JasonJ

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i find that aftermarket rotors on the Liberty tend to heat up and warp easier than the OE rotors do. Something about stopping 4000lbs from 70mph tends to disagree with them.

That being said, right now I just deal with a slight bit of warping and wobble that it causes in the steering wheel on hard braking. Light to moderate braking, no issues.

These trucks tend to be fairly easy on brakes if you use high quality parts, and quite the opposite if using mass produced "cheap" parts.
 

CzarKJ

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Always interesting to me how we get different results with the same manufacturers...

I put in all NAPA parts about 30K miles ago - four calipers, four rotors and four sets of pads. There's not a single pulse in the brake pedal and it stops just as well as the day I put them on.

Yet others have had poor results with NAPA. Bad quality control? Different driving styles? Different terrain (hilly vs. flat)? Dunno... :shrug:

Bob
See another thing to think about is people who drive manual can downshift and don't brake nearly as much.
 

CalcityRenegade

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I think this has to do with terrain. Driving style. Quality as well as condition of other parts that factor into the brakes and associated parts wearing. If you have rotors constantly warping you either need to not brake so hard or see if there is something wrong with other components that is causing the rotor to warp. My KJ was manual and I could downshift damn near to a stop. My brakes lasted me forever. My Titan came with cheap brake pads and rotors from the previous owner and it is a perfect example of why not to be cheap. This spring I will be replacing all 4 rotors and pads with high quality Wanger parts. I also tow a trailer a trailer so want the best set up possible.
 

CactusJacked

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See another thing to think about is people who drive manual can downshift and don't brake nearly as much.

I only do that to use engine braking when going down a steep hill. Otherwise, I wouldn't recommend using the clutch as a brake, worn out brakes are a hell of a lot easier to change than the clutch is.
 
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