replacing CV's.....what all parts is involved?

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f1paul

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Hey guys, I know a lot of u have done this recently and i have pored over all the posts
first for this info but of course, still have a question.
i already sourced reman'ed cv's,bought the 35 mm socket and have my mechanic from work on board.
so i go to get the dealer only "middle" shaft(and c-clips) and he says i will also need 2 other parts, axle seal, (5066066aa) number 7 in illustration, and axle bearing/bushing, he called it,(5066056ab)number 8 in illustration.
thing is, cant find anybody mentioning this here or on l.o.s.t., so im doubting this guy.
thing is those parts are an extra 80$ CAD on top of an almost 600$ worth of other parts so i hope someone can chime in and tell me whats really up.
thanks

illustration below
 

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ptsb5a

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All of the prices I'm about to quote are in $ CDN. I'm doing the same thing to my KJ this Saturday.

Mopar parts

-pn 5066057AB - Shaft intermediate (comes with the two clips) 222.23
-pn 5066066AA - Seal 24.23

Bumper-to-Bumper

-pn 663352 Cardone left CV shaft, new (lifetime warranty) 109.00
-pn 663351 Cardone right CV shaft, new (lifetime warranty) 109.00

Total 464.46

Add to that 2 litre's of 75W140 at about $20 each and a tube of RTV and I'm just over $500. Dude, I think you're getting hosed.
 

f1paul

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thanks for the reply, so i do need the seal but not the bearing , ok.

gonna order tomorrow the seal and intermediate shaft. cant do mine till next weekend,dealer has to get shaft from u.s. , none right now in toronto warehouse apparently. and how did u get shaft for 222 ?, they quoted me 273 for that.

what do u need RTV for?

and dont know if u bought those cardone cv's yet, but on l.o.s.t. they were saying not to buy new, get remaned units,unless u use mopar new @ 538$ a side(ya right). specifically mentioning that people had problems with those(cardones), think due to them not being proper length by a little bit.

better check into that.

napa here in toronto has those new cardones for 109 and remaned for 123 with like a 100$ core per side. i was gonna go remaned after reading what i did at lost, dont know if those issues were, like, a bad batch or just a design flaw so i would rather not experiment with my ride.



BTW, nice ride , i like the look, thats all i need, is a little lift and my tires, which im sorely in need of, but since tire fund is being used for repair on jeep i guess ill have to wait till tax return time,cmon march!
 
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tommudd

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Don't buy new CVs unless from the dealer, New ones from parts stores are known to be made too short and will not work right. Remanned ones are the correct length of course .
 

ptsb5a

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I'll scan the bill and show you how I got the shaft:)eek:) for $222. I have a really good relationship with the parts dudes and the service manager ever since the grill incident. RTV is for the diff cover. I don't have an FSM but I assume I'll have to pull off the diff cover to make sure that nothing falls out of place when I pull the old shaft out and stuff the new one in. As for the CV shafts. I CANNOT get remmaned CV shafts here. No stock in the wharehouse, ever. And seeing as I'm not nearly made of the money that my x-wife thinks I am, I'll have to settle for the new ones. They come with a lifetime warranty so if they don't fit, hey, they don't fit, I'll just return them. In fact, I'll measure the old ones and compare to the new ones before installing the new shafts. My old ones aren't too beat up. I was gonna get the old ones machined (as an experiment by a machinist friend of mine) and possibly re-use them. You know, new boots and a fresh pack of grease.
 

tommudd

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you don't have to pull the diff cover off to replace the CVs or intermediate shaft.
 

bigBlue

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get the "remanned" cv's from nappa...they are better than the new ones from what i read

go to mopar parts america for the intermediate shaft. its only 137.00 (reduced).

you can get the seals bearings and clips where ever else you need.
 

ptsb5a

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get the "remanned" cv's from nappa...they are better than the new ones from what i read

go to mopar parts america for the intermediate shaft. its only 137.00 (reduced).

you can get the seals bearings and clips where ever else you need.


Intermediate shaft, $222.23 in CANADA. And, I cannot get remanned shafts. The NAPA shafts are remanned by Cardone, same company that makes the new ones. Check the warranty.pdf link from the NAPA search result page. Man, feel like I'm jacking dudes thread here. I'll go start my own!
 

f1paul

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ptsb5a, thats cool, jack away, actually that sounds kind of dirty, never mind. and ya i guess if they do come with lifetime warranty, go for it, actually,i would hold them side by side when u get the old ones out for a measurement, like u said, if they are not on par then u could still put everything back together without reinstalling old ones.u would have no 4X4 of course. hopefully they work out though.good luck with the install, let me know of any hangups or problem steps that u encounter,please.

i dint have time to goto dealer today but at least i know that they can do a little better with their pricing, on your receipt, the prices he quoted me are all the ones just to the left of the net pricing that u paid.

thanks guys, and sick front end tjkj, but this fix is already delaying my lift and tire upgrade even further now so i want to spend as little as possible at the same time get quality parts, and i just see dollar signs when i look at that pic, is that a liberty?

gotta go tomorrow to order the intermediate shaft, f*#k what a noise it made today coming home from work, used to put in four wheel for a sec, then back to two wheel to clear it up but today that just made it louder.four wheel is a nogo until repairs, hope it doesnt snow till after next saturday, or my lotto numbers come up tonight, ill be happy with either. hehehe.
 

ptsb5a

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So, here is what my intermediate shaft looked like once I got it out. The seal was a ***** to pull out. TJKJ was right, I would have had to drop the left LCA to get the diff cover off. Instead, I cut the bolt, bought a new one and installed it in reverse of how it was installed. The nut is outboard. Next time will be way easier. I know what you're thinking, "WTF? why pull the diff cover?" Well, I had to pull the diff cover off. The clip on the ring-gear carrier end of the intermediate shaft did not come out nicely. It fell off inside the diff. Damnit.

Took the opportunity to also remove and clean my skids. I'm sure that I removed about 15lbs of mud, dirt and crap from the skids. I scrubbed them all, put a fresh coat of paint on them and bolted them back up.
 

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Ry' N Jen

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So, here is what my intermediate shaft looked like once I got it out. The seal was a ***** to pull out. TJKJ was right, I would have had to drop the left LCA to get the diff cover off. Instead, I cut the bolt, bought a new one and installed it in reverse of how it was installed. The nut is outboard. Next time will be way easier. I know what you're thinking, "WTF? why pull the diff cover?" Well, I had to pull the diff cover off. The clip on the ring-gear carrier end of the intermediate shaft did not come out nicely. It fell off inside the diff. Damnit.

Took the opportunity to also remove and clean my skids. I'm sure that I removed about 15lbs of mud, dirt and crap from the skids. I scrubbed them all, put a fresh coat of paint on them and bolted them back up.

But you should of painted yey skids abright colour Ian!:D
 

f1paul

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everything go ok, no drama? i hope. how were the cardones, identical ?
 

ptsb5a

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Nope, no drama. Well, none other than the old dude who kept coming by asking all kinds of assinine questions. Other than having to nearly completely dismantle the front suspension it went quite well. The only crappy part was having to remove the clevis arms from the bottom of the shock/spring assembly. They are a PITA to put back in. Although, I used the ratchet strap method and it went WAY better than how I used to do it. While I had the front end apart I swapped out LBJs. DO NOT buy LBJs that have a grease nipple on the top of them. I don't know who the engineer is but I'd like to B**** slap the ****. How the F*** am I supposed to grease those??? Swapping the seal was a pain to. Had to take apart a pair of huge channel lock pliers and use one of the handles as a hook to get in there and pry out the seal. I have a handy seal removal tool but it doesn't work for beans when the seal is 2'' in dia, the inside dia of the axle tube access part is like 2 1/4" and it's sunk like 3" in. I think I might have sworn a little at that too. Nothing that I can't overcome. You should see where 40lb heads and slide rules (read: engineers) figure you can get your hands into on an F18. All said and done, on my own it took about 4hrs to do the job. I spent about 8hrs in the shop today. Gave the skids a bath and cleaned ALL of my tools before putting them back in the box. Check the "what did everybody get for Christmas thread" the tool box is big.

Good luck to you when you go to do yours.

The Cardones are identical. Maybe folks are just ******** about the quality. But, like I said before, there can't be too many companies out there with tooling for these things. I mean come on, even the NAPA branded CV shafts are Cardones.
 
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