Removed the valve cover

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tjkj2002

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Thinking about it, I think I'm ruling out the fuel filter as that really doesn't make since as to why it would be running RICH... going to have my buddy check the oil pressure, coolant pressure, and do a vacuum check on it as well... try to rule out everything before throwing sensors at it... I'm leaning more towards the O2 sensor, since it is dedicated only to cylinders 2,4,and 6... whereas I think the IAC sensor covers all 6 cylinders... if the other diagnostics check good... I think that's what I am going to change out to see if it resolves my idle problem... unless of course someone else thinks it could be something else... thanks guys
Bad O2 sensors or a bad cat will throw a code.A O2 sensor will only tell the PCM what it senses,so if it senses a lean condition it will richen up the mixture,not a bad O2 sensor but something else is causing the problem.Checking for vacuum leaks is a good start,as is checking your compression,a leak down test can help alot also.

A bad TPS sensor will also throw a code also,same goes for the IAC sensor.If your idle is in the correct rpm range(1000rpm when cold,650 or at idle when fully warmed up) and the engine does not die when reved high then allowed to go back to idle fast,that will rule out the IAC also.

Another big area to check is the exhuast system,exhuast leaks before the cats will make you run rich and possibly have no codes.Also check all the exhuast manifold bolts,a broken one will cause a exhuast leak and make the engine run richer.
 

ShadowedXistence

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Compression test was good before I started everything, I'm pretty sure it's still good now... and now that you mention it, there does seem to be a little smoke coming from where the exhaust pipes mount up to the exhaust manifold... I noticed it today... it is very faint (almost like someone has a lit cigarette burning under there)... I rev'd up on it, and it would disipate mostly... let it idle some more and it would start up again... I just figured it was oil or coolant or something that leaked down there when I was tearing things apart and was now burning off... I'll get under it tomorrow and see what I can find...
 

ShadowedXistence

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Got the oil pressure sender unit in... replaced all the spark plugs with dual fires... added the full synthetic oil... The thing runs like a top... sounds so much smoother, so much quieter, and feels like it has more power... so far, haven't noticed any coolant leaks, but have only driven it about 15 miles or so, so I'll have to keep checking it...

TJKJ: The smoke I explained previously does not appear to be there anymore.

Waiting for my buddy to get some available time, and then do all the other system checks.

Going to inspect my spark plugs in 3000 miles to see if the engine is still running rich now that the chip has been removed... but SO FAR... there are no current problems!!!
 

kb0nly

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Running rich could have been a result of the computer recalibrating itself after removing the chip... Did you pull the battery cable for a half hour to make sure everything got reset?
 

ShadowedXistence

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Running rich could have been a result of the computer recalibrating itself after removing the chip... Did you pull the battery cable for a half hour to make sure everything got reset?

This is this first I've really had it running without the chip. It was running VERY rich on 2, 4, and 6... Rich on 2, richer on 4, and even richer on 6... But with good compression... Removed neg batt cable for about 10 mins to reset the CEL but not a half hour... Why is it a half hour?

I suppose it is very possible the chip could have had those cylinders running rich, but won't really know for a few thousand miles when I check the spark plugs again
 

kb0nly

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This is this first I've really had it running without the chip. It was running VERY rich on 2, 4, and 6... Rich on 2, richer on 4, and even richer on 6... But with good compression... Removed neg batt cable for about 10 mins to reset the CEL but not a half hour... Why is it a half hour?

I suppose it is very possible the chip could have had those cylinders running rich, but won't really know for a few thousand miles when I check the spark plugs again

I only said a half hour just to be safe to make sure, but if it was disconnected long enough to dump the CEL then it should have been long enough to dump its settings also.

Give her some time and check the plugs sounds like a good idea.
 

speedracerbubba

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Good to hear she is doing well again. ***** you went through what you did but I am sure you learned a lot from the ordeal.
 

ShadowedXistence

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Good to hear she is doing well again. ***** you went through what you did but I am sure you learned a lot from the ordeal.

It actually wasn't so bad. The lifter cost me 17 plus 35 for the valve spring compressor, 30 for the oil and filter (needed to be done in 500 miles anyway), 8 for seafoam, 10 for coolant, 20 for the oil pressure sender unit, bout 30 for the plugs. So about 150 overall. Oh and don't forget the 18 dollar 30 rack of bud light. Took me bout 8 hours, but I took my time.
 

Diggerfreek

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What you learned from doing all of that is well worth the money. You never know when you might use what you learned again....
 

HoosierJeeper

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I only said a half hour just to be safe to make sure, but if it was disconnected long enough to dump the CEL then it should have been long enough to dump its settings also.

Give her some time and check the plugs sounds like a good idea.

Over night with disconnecting the bat should be fine....
 
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