Removed the valve cover

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ShadowedXistence

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Pulled the cover off the passenger side camshaft...
Rocker arm had completely fallen off of cylinder 4 (the rocker arm closest to the firewall for cylinder 4, I think it's an exhaust valve?). I know there is a reason for this; could it be oil pressure? I have had code 0522(low oil pressure voltage) for a couple of weeks now. Also, I'm not sure, but the lash adjuster seems to have about a 1/4in play in it. Not sure if this is normal. None of the springs seem to be broken. I'm guessing the exhaust valve was backfiring into the intake...?

The problem started out with 306 code (cylinder misfire on 6) then just today I had 304 code (cylinder misfire on 4)... not sure how this rocker arm problem on cylinder 4 could have an effect on cylinder 6 if any...

The spark plug was completely burned out on cylinder 6. Not sure how.

Losing coolant somewhere. not sure where... or why... oil is not milky, but have not seen any evidence of it outside... coolant isn't inside the chamber... compression tested about 150 strong, plus with no overheat issues, I doubt it's a headgasket...

Plan on getting a new lash adjuster, reinstalling the rocker arm, then putting everything back together, top off with oil and do an oil pressure test and go from there. But not sure what else I should look at while I have the valve cover off, since the original problem was cylinder 6 misfire with a burnt out sparkplug. Any help would be great, Thanks!
 

LibertyTC

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Mileage?

You have an 04 3.7, how many miles on engine now?
Not at home where my service manual is....
I am sure other's will chime in.....soon.
 

Redbone

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#4 exhaust (?) valve not opening due to rocker arm fallen off + low oil pressure voltage + a burned out plug in #6 + losing coolant & a missing lash adjuster. Hummmmm .... might be that Jet chip OR the Johnson rod has fallen COMPLETELY OFF of the Knibblin pin.

Are you sure you want to tackle this job? Your questions indicate you are not very familiar with basics. This engine is in dire need of some serious troubleshooting before just being put back together. Example: #6 plug problem is not caused by #4 valve problem and visa versa.

I'm not looking under the hood of mine right now (it's gone with my wife in it) so I can't tell which valve lines up with intake or exhaust. Are you sure you worded this correctly ->"I'm guessing the exhaust valve was backfiring into the intake...?" headscratch.gif
 

Redbone

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Add-on question:
Are valve lifters and lash adjusters the same thing?
Having a hard time finding "lash adjuster" in any parts catalog

You are pulling our collective legs, right? If u r serious I suggest u look under Automotive Repair Shop for a "lash adjuster".
 

ThunderbirdJunkie

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Best advice is for you to take it to a shop that knows what they're doing.

Is the valve spring on #4 cylinder broken?
 

ThunderbirdJunkie

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Guys, you're all wrong. It's obviously a malfunctioning turbo encapulator. When the Gynsunq valve in the turbo encapulator malfunctions, the rest of the turbo encapulator needs to be replaced, and can cause serious valvetrain issues.
 

JeepJeepster

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Good gosh, why not try to help the guy instead of telling him to just take it to a shop. One thing I hate is when someone tells a guy that he should take it to a shop instead of learning how to do it him self. How the heck else is he going to learn it besides figuring it out for himself the first time??

If I had ever done head work Id give you all the knowledge I had about it but Ive not.... Yet....
 

ThunderbirdJunkie

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Normally ThunderbirdJunkie would agree with you

but if he can't figure out whether it's an intake or exhaust valve...chances are he really doesn't need to be doing this.

Not trying to be a prick...but there is a certain amount of problem-solving and general figuring-things-out stuff...it's not that hard to look at the exhaust and intake manifolds, and figure out which one matches the port in question
 

ShadowedXistence

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What a bunch of winners out here... Love the Seinfeld jokes btw... excuse me for the questions, but everyone has to learn somewhere...
Is the valve spring on #4 cylinder broken?
Instead of patronizing me, "ShadowedXistence thinks ThunderbirdJunkie needs to read the post!"
None of the springs seem to be broken.
I've read posts about lifter noise. Wasn't sure what that was so I figured I'd ask...
This engine is in dire need of some serious troubleshooting before just being put back together.
I'm pretty sure this is why I asked questions! Plus if you had seen some of my other posts, I've already been trying to do a lot of troubleshooting before I got to this point.
It's a learning process... and quite frankly if you can't offer me with any information that could HELP me, then who says you know more about the situation in the first place.
I'm on this site for help, not harrassment. Members on this site say it's nicer than LOST... I'd hate to see what LOST is all about!
 

Redbone

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Powerslave

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Yeah, see this is why there is so much bull-shit arguing and piss contests. The guy asks for help, and people piss all over him. If he wants to do it, then help, or ****, I mean really?

ShadowedXistence:


For the left side head, where #4 cylinder is; The exhaust valve is the one on the LEFT, the INTAKE is the one on the right. Which makes sense, because the Exhaust ports are on the LEFT side of that head (where the header pipes are), and the intake ports are on the RIGHT side of the head (where the intake manifold is) for the left bank.

No matter what you do, the cylinder head needs to be removed for repairing.

See your PM, start at page 4003
 

ShadowedXistence

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Let's update and hopefully get BACK on track... the valve IS an exhaust valve... The chip has already been removed since Troy told me that the performance chip requires a higher octane fuel, even though the company states it does not(it's a stage I btw). But none the less, I took it out when he told me anyway, just to be on the safe side.
 

jnaut

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There is just over 90000 miles on it now... I have a service manual, just don't know where to start

You're a brave man. Hats off to you and good luck. I wish I had your chutzpah. And... another car that I could drive while my jeep sits in the driveway and I figured stuff like this out...
 
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Redbone

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I'm pretty sure this is why I asked questions! Plus if you had seen some of my other posts, I've already been trying to do a lot of troubleshooting before I got to this point.
It's a learning process... and quite frankly if you can't offer me with any information that could HELP me, then who says you know more about the situation in the first place.
I'm on this site for help, not harrassment. Members on this site say it's nicer than LOST... I'd hate to see what LOST is all about!


Please excuse the jokes. They come from the initial post where you are giving us symptoms that are not even remotely related. Later you ask about lash adjusters vs. lifters. These questions are indicative of an experience level FAR below that required to perform repairs. The advice to take it to a shop is no joke. I/we can't teach you advanced troubleshooting techniques & repairs in this format.
 

ShadowedXistence

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and this is why I didn't believe it to be a fuel grade problem... In terms of removing the head, I don't believe this is necessary... the lash adjuster slides right back in, I have a vehicle specific tool being shipped from miller tools to compress the valve spring with the head still in the car, so I can reinstall the rocker arm... none of the springs are broken, but i need to compress them to see if the valves follow, or stick... I truely believe it to be an oil pressure problem due to the fact that the lash adjuster are hydraulic because of oil pressure, and without that, would cause play within the rocker arm... as far as the 1/4in play in the lash adjuster, i don't know if this is normal...?
 
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