I have it on good authority that these can be reused multiple times. In a year or two when I need another one I will rob another Girl Scout and steal her cookie money.
Recommend Me Some Fluids
- Thread starter profdlp
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I've used these a couple times now with a light smear of Gear Oil RTV to hold it in place:
Amazon.com: Fel-Pro RDS55047 Rear Axle Set: Automotive
Only 4 bucks and hasn't leaked a drop yet.
Amazon.com: Fel-Pro RDS55047 Rear Axle Set: Automotive
Only 4 bucks and hasn't leaked a drop yet.
Yes I think you can use them quite a few times. Had a ****** pan gasket on a Chevy APV made like that a few years ago and used it about 6 times before it got a bit sketchy.
uss2defiant
Full Access Member
I haven't done a gear oil change before in me life and I'm very tempted to try a gasket when I finally attempt this, especially if my experience with cleaning off the RTV is horrible.
A few quick questions:
1) Any torques specs for the bolts on the differential covers and/or the drain plugs? All the stuff I've found says "Snug, but not too tight". Yeah, well that's pretty much true of everything you put a wrench to now, isn't it? :icon_lol:
I'm assuming that since these things are not structural components or under any real stress, that it makes sense to err on the side of caution. I don't want to strip anything out. Anyone ever have a problem with getting the drain and/or fill plugs out? I know enough to make sure the fill plug is loose before trying to drain the sucker, as you don't want to empty the thing out and then have no way to fill it back up.
2) I've seen references to using brake cleaner to de-gunk the cover. Can that be sprayed inside the housing on the gears as well? Is it okay for me to indulge my crack habit while I'm under there or is that stuff flammable?
3) Any particular type of brake cleaner, or are they all the same?
4) The manual says to fill to the following capacities:
Front – 1.31 qts
Rear – 2.19 qts
So, that last 1/100th of a quart (1/3 of an ounce) means use an eyedropper, right? :happy175:
Actually, every video I've seen says to fill both differentials until it starts to seep back out. Is that a good way to go?
5) The driveway where I'm doing this is fairly steep, as is the street out front. If I park with the nose of the Jeep out in the street I can get it more or less level front to rear but I will be tilted slightly toward the passenger side. Any advantage to having a slight slope either front or back, or should I shoot for as level as possible? How much does this matter?
6) Where are the magnets, if any, and what should I look for?
I know these are probably dumb questions, but this is new to me and I don't want to mess it up. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. It looks like Saturday is the big day as we're expecting sunny and 60F.
Thanks! :favorites13:
1) Any torques specs for the bolts on the differential covers and/or the drain plugs? All the stuff I've found says "Snug, but not too tight". Yeah, well that's pretty much true of everything you put a wrench to now, isn't it? :icon_lol:
I'm assuming that since these things are not structural components or under any real stress, that it makes sense to err on the side of caution. I don't want to strip anything out. Anyone ever have a problem with getting the drain and/or fill plugs out? I know enough to make sure the fill plug is loose before trying to drain the sucker, as you don't want to empty the thing out and then have no way to fill it back up.
2) I've seen references to using brake cleaner to de-gunk the cover. Can that be sprayed inside the housing on the gears as well? Is it okay for me to indulge my crack habit while I'm under there or is that stuff flammable?
3) Any particular type of brake cleaner, or are they all the same?
4) The manual says to fill to the following capacities:
Front – 1.31 qts
Rear – 2.19 qts
So, that last 1/100th of a quart (1/3 of an ounce) means use an eyedropper, right? :happy175:
Actually, every video I've seen says to fill both differentials until it starts to seep back out. Is that a good way to go?
5) The driveway where I'm doing this is fairly steep, as is the street out front. If I park with the nose of the Jeep out in the street I can get it more or less level front to rear but I will be tilted slightly toward the passenger side. Any advantage to having a slight slope either front or back, or should I shoot for as level as possible? How much does this matter?
6) Where are the magnets, if any, and what should I look for?
I know these are probably dumb questions, but this is new to me and I don't want to mess it up. Any other advice would be greatly appreciated. It looks like Saturday is the big day as we're expecting sunny and 60F.
Thanks! :favorites13:
Last edited:
uss2defiant
Full Access Member
1. since you are using the lubelocker gasket. follow the torque requirements. FSM has 30ft-lbs.
for the plug, snug is enough
2.should be fine.
3. any brand.
4. I believe that's 1/4-1/2 inch below the fill hole (quoting TJKJ2000).
6. What magnet?? Nada.
for the plug, snug is enough
2.should be fine.
3. any brand.
4. I believe that's 1/4-1/2 inch below the fill hole (quoting TJKJ2000).
6. What magnet?? Nada.
Just an opinion here: I've never liked the idea of spraying brake cleaner in the diff. Some (a small amount, yes, but some) will remain in there when you refill it, and I don't know what the effect on the new gear lube is, so I've always been cautious and avoided it.
Excellent gasket, reusable and keeps everything clean, huge time saver if you pop the diff cover oftenI also have one of these on the way:
Lube Locker Chrysler 8.25" Differential Gasket
It came highly recommended by TCLiberty and looks like a time-saver.
EDIT: Had the wrong link before. :emotions34:
TheBlueKJ
Full Access Member
brake clean evaporates rather quickly it doesn't stay in the diff, I don't know why everyone is complaining about cleaning RTV off the diff and cover. Get a wiz wheel with a scotch brite pad and it takes 2 seconds
kage860
Full Access Member
1) I wouldn't worry too too much about the torque but just use common sense with tightening them evenly in a star pattern. The other way to go which I prefer is to pump it out with a tube and a hand pump and you don't have to worry about gaskets or leaks at all.
2) I wouldn't put brake cleaner on the gears themselves, they probably mean to get the gasket surface clean and leak free.
3) I buy the non-clorinated, no particular reason I figure its not as hazardous?
4) I filled it like you said, until it starts to come out, guys here say the manual says to fill to 1/2" under the fill hole.
5) If you park and fill with the front uphill the rear diff will be partially "underfilled" and with the nose down will be "overfilled". The front diff will come out opposite I believe, so keep this in mind and correct as necessary. You'll see once you start filling. Probably nick picking though.
Good Luck!
2) I wouldn't put brake cleaner on the gears themselves, they probably mean to get the gasket surface clean and leak free.
3) I buy the non-clorinated, no particular reason I figure its not as hazardous?
4) I filled it like you said, until it starts to come out, guys here say the manual says to fill to 1/2" under the fill hole.
5) If you park and fill with the front uphill the rear diff will be partially "underfilled" and with the nose down will be "overfilled". The front diff will come out opposite I believe, so keep this in mind and correct as necessary. You'll see once you start filling. Probably nick picking though.
Good Luck!
But thats 2 seconds I can be sitting relaxing ..............:icon_lol:
I've changed some that took 20 minutes just to get all that gunk off, ridiculous how much some people will use when putting it on. They must think they are laying block or something
My method, unbolt/ open/ let drain 10-15 minutes ( while I eat a sandwich with greasy hands) / clean magnet etc , wipe out good, pop cover back on and fill , done in twenty minutes or less
I can do mine with out jacking it up, but always lift the front up some to get it to drain faster
The gasket arrived today and says to torque it once to 15 ft-lbs, then go around again and tighten it down to 35 ft-lbs, so I'll do that.
I'm also going to shoot for as level as possible. This is the first place I've lived where there was no place to park on flat ground. If the garage was cleaned out I could do it in there but that is never going to happen. I really need to get out of this place...
Hoping for the good weather they have promised for tomorrow. If things go smoothly I might take a crack at the Transfer Case and Power Steering fluid as well.
I'm also going to shoot for as level as possible. This is the first place I've lived where there was no place to park on flat ground. If the garage was cleaned out I could do it in there but that is never going to happen. I really need to get out of this place...
Hoping for the good weather they have promised for tomorrow. If things go smoothly I might take a crack at the Transfer Case and Power Steering fluid as well.
boboborino
Full Access Member
If things go smoothly I might take a crack at the Transfer Case and Power Steering fluid as well.
There you go talking about your crack habbit again!
Magnet is on the drain plug. Expect to see some shavings. It is there to keep the shavings out of the gears. Just clean off and re-install. It might be a little thick of shavings depending when the last time it was changed/cleaned.
Bert
I had it done at the local Lube 'n Screw in September of 2013, about 15,000 miles ago. The trouble is that they were the ones who used the wrong coolant in my radiator leading to my problems last month with the water pump, etc., leading me not to be all that confident in the job they did on the gears, either. It will be interesting to see what the magnet looks like and if there is a way to tell if they even bothered to clean it. I do feel a little guilty being so suspicious of them. They did all the work on my old Tracker for the last ten years I had it so they must have been doing something right.
I was in an auto parts store the other day to get my gear oil and on a whim I asked them about HOAT. They had never heard of it but promised me that their stuff was 100% compatible. I smiled, then made my way to the door as fast as I could. :mexsmoke:
I was in an auto parts store the other day to get my gear oil and on a whim I asked them about HOAT. They had never heard of it but promised me that their stuff was 100% compatible. I smiled, then made my way to the door as fast as I could. :mexsmoke:
One last question, though I plan to go get them shortly. I was planning to pick up a pair of jack stands to make this a little easier. Then it occurred to me that ramps might be easier. Eventually I plan to have both, but if you could only buy one or the other, which one would it be?
Hard to say, since you're still stock height either would be good, of course with jackstands you have to have a good floor jack as well
Personally I like Jackstands though. HF has some good 6 tons that are solid and have a wider base than what you find most places
Harbor Freight is where I plan to go. I think the jack stands are more versatile, since you can't rotate tires on ramps. On the other hand, not having to fiddle with the jack at all for a quick job underneath is a bonus. I may just flip a coin since at some point I will buy whichever one I don't get today.
Thanks! :favorites13:
Your best first investment is in a good floor jack and jackstands...that being said, I have the ramps, too, and they are great for fluid changes, lube, and inspections...but useless for suspension, wheels, etc....
boboborino
Full Access Member
plus three on the jack and stands. a little more work to get it up :icon_lol: but I feel they are more versatile( brake jobs, suspension, tire rotaions,etc)
Bert
I went with the jack stands. For now, I'm using the jack that came with the Jeep. I'll get a nice one someday when I have my own garage.
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