Discussion in 'How To' started by jfortier777, Jul 23, 2006.
How have the front CV joints and drive shaft universals holding up? DO the boots for the CV joints keep poping off? It looks like a very sharp angle
I have the same concern
I am really thinking about this lift. Looks pretty easy to install and this is a great write up!
my suggestion would be to NOT wear sandals and shorts while doing this kind of work. it'll really ruin your day when you drop something...
Awesome instructions and write up. The only thing we did different was not take the clevis off the LCA. Went back together easily. Also added the washer/spacer on the clevis and an extra upper isolator in the back. Around 2 1/2hrs for first timers.
I always wear sandals when doing lifts, 12 plus and not one drooped tool or anything!
You have to remove the clevis for most lifts I noticed you did not get much extra lift so no you maybe got away with not removing the clevis.
I never read his write up before, several things he did makes it take longer but I guess most of it works.
Where is he now does anyone know? Last I heard he was heading to Japan!
Never made it there, though it has become a life goal.
I've settled into new york and hopefully I'll get my next jeep within the year.
Reading the forums really takes me back, has it been 4 years already?
This forum lead me through one of the most fun phases of my life so far, and I met plenty of good folks through it.
Keep up the good work.
I'll check back with you guys in a couple years, keep up the good work Bennett!
PS: Tom do you remember when I won those tires? LOL!
Hey man, great write-up, Where in NY are you? If you miss going on trail runs, there are a lot of us in NY that are still active, and definitely wouldn't mind if you tagged along.
Ok, you mention in the how to about the danger of unseating the CV shaft. I'm halfway thru my daystar install, and I'm pretty sure that's what I have done
Is there an easy way to reseat the shaft? The boots appear to be intact, but the front wheels are now freewheeling.
Anybody been here before?
great thread. the only thing i would add is the installation of the upper control arms. i ran into some trouble gettin to my bolts on the driver side. a little help would have been amazing hahaha. The ratchet straps were RIGHT ON!!!
Resurrection... I know, but i am doing mine in a couple weekends and need to make sure that these are all of the tools that I need, for I do not want to have to play guess the size of the nut!!!
5/16 nutdriver air box tube clamp
10 mm deep socket 1/4"drive cruse control mod
13 mm socket 1/4" drive battery tray nuts (3)
3/4 deep socket 1/2" drive wheels
15mm socket 1/2" drive top rear shocks
18 mm deep 1/2" drive sway bar end links and top plate nuts
21 mm deep 1/2" drive upper ball joint nut, upper and lower clevis bolt
15 mm and 18 mm wrench lower rear shock mount
BIG pry bar
long pointed punch or pry bar with punch end
Do I use the supplied bumpstops, or make the 2-hockeypuck system?
And speaking of torque wrench, no one has every said what the torque specs are for each part...?
Found them on allj's...
It is very important to make sure you tighten
all bolts back down to factory torque
specifications. Here is a small breakdown of
all suspension bolts and their corresponding
Four upper shock mounting nuts: 80 lb-ft
Clevis bracket bolt at bottom of shock: 65 lb-ft
Lower ball joint nut: 60 lb-ft
Clevis bracket at lower control arm: 110 lb-ft
Lower stabilizer link at lower control arm: 100
Axle nut: 100 lb-ft
Rotor bracket bolts:100 lb-ft
Bearing hub bolts: 96 lb-ft
Tie-rod ends nuts: 80 lb-ft
Shocks (upper): 80 lb-ft
Shocks (lower): 85 lb-ft
Rear stabilizer bolts at lower suspension arm:
Upper control arm: 90 lb-ft
Lower control arm: 125 lb-ft
Pinch bolt on top of differential: 70 lb-ft
make ur own bumpstops with hockey pucks and a carriage bolt
so don't use the ones that came with my frankenlift?
I am not sure why everyone says you have to seperate the ball joints, I have done 2 lifts now WITHOUT removing the ball joints of the tire rods or the rear sway bar.
so jinstall you must be proficient in lifting...
I am having 2 things that I need answered.
1- tools... what sockets do I need? deep?
2- Can I just use the bumpstop that came with the franky and not do the pucks or do I need to do the pucks too?
8mm, 10mm, 15mm, 18mm, 19mm I think it was.
5mm allen wrench
some need to be deep, I always have a complete set of tools with me though.
I would recomend using all the bumpstops that come with it, I have already found out that the rear will rub in a bad way if your tires are big or you use wheel spacers.
do i need a 21?
I would have to go and look again on that one. If you clean everything up and you get yourself a cheap micrometer, you can answer this yourself. It is hard to remeber all the sizes and I think you are refering to the nut on the lower shock mount that connects to the LCA.
Cuts install time by half if you do and for the taller lifts you need to seperate the UBJ from the knuckle.
Separate names with a comma.