TheBlueKJ
Full Access Member
Hahaha never heard that one before :happy175:. You've gotta use stock length shocks up front, OME Ironman, and Bilstien all make great shocks so anyone of those will work great.
Front end STILL knocking
- Thread starter deliciousdaly
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Hahaha never heard that one before :happy175:. You've gotta use stock length shocks up front, OME Ironman, and Bilstien all make great shocks so anyone of those will work great.
They used to used rebranded OME front shocks, who knows any more what they are using
But weak springs / bad shocks I'll bet it does wallow some
But weak springs / bad shocks I'll bet it does wallow some
overdalimit
New Member
Try replacining the upper strut mount. It could be frozen (rust). same thing with the ball joints. Could be frozen. I know there was a recall on mine for all 4 ball joints.
Upper shock mount wouldn't really cause any issues since theres no movement or anything
ThunderbirdJunkie
Bronze Supporter
There isn't until the rubber is worn out and the steel sleeve separates. ThunderbirdJunkie has been down this road :\
tommudd has been down this road as well on my state supplied car, but it was a different matter than what the poster is talking about . Only way can it make noise is when it wears not, it does not move any though during normal operation unless rubber is worn out
deliciousdaly
Full Access Member
It's just starting to make different noises, sounds like something is going in and out of place. Maybe a cracked spring? I really want to avoid buying a new front suspension lift just to see if that would fix it. Are there some better ways to check and see if my krusty's stuff failed on me?
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
I'm gonna go back to my first reply to this thread... :beatdeadhorse5:
Replace the sway bar bushings at the frame attachment points. Get the Moogs - $12 for the pair from Advance Auto. 20 minute job to replace them.
And since you need to remove the sway bar links (or at least the upper bolt on the link) you can retorque the link bolt with the Jeep on the ground and it's full weight on the links.
I know it sounds too simple - but this simpleton tightened the links while the Jeep was still up on jack stands and the bloody thing clunked like a '72 Gremlin. Once I decided to listen to yellocoyote and tjkj2002 and tighten them properly it was quiet as a church mouse.
Bob
Replace the sway bar bushings at the frame attachment points. Get the Moogs - $12 for the pair from Advance Auto. 20 minute job to replace them.
And since you need to remove the sway bar links (or at least the upper bolt on the link) you can retorque the link bolt with the Jeep on the ground and it's full weight on the links.
I know it sounds too simple - but this simpleton tightened the links while the Jeep was still up on jack stands and the bloody thing clunked like a '72 Gremlin. Once I decided to listen to yellocoyote and tjkj2002 and tighten them properly it was quiet as a church mouse.
Bob
deliciousdaly
Full Access Member
Now, is it as easy as removing a bolt and putting it back on? I am going to do this myself and I am not the most handy person. Will it fit together and come apart easily?
Cardhu
Full Access Member
sway bar links? yes two bolts a side, don't even have to take off the wheels. Its actually prefered that you leave them on with the weight on them for all the reasons listed before.
deliciousdaly
Full Access Member
Ok, we replaced the links completely and my new mechanic and I went through everything and we think we narrowed it down to the rack and pinion... Does that sound right?
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
Before you replace the entire unit check the bushings around the two bolts that hold the rack to the frame - especially the one on the driver's side. Oil from the oil filter spills on it and degrades it over time. Have him watch for movement while you turn the steering wheel back and forth - he should be able to see if there's excessive play due to bad bushings very quickly.
If that's not it then the only thing left to replace (besides the lower control arms due to bad bushings) is the steering rack.
Keep us posted...
Bob
deliciousdaly
Full Access Member
But the noise is coming from the passenger side of the jeep. I sat on the lift with the mechanic underneath, we could not replicate the noise but when the wheel was turned all the way to the right it would clunk slightly. I'm wondering if the whole assembly would make that much noise. The mechanic said that this truck is meant to have 4wd and has all the components to have it, but since it is only2wd things go bad faster...
That's a new one
x2. If it has all the 4WD stuff...you'd have a 4x4.
Jo6pak
Full Access Member
Someone needs a new mechanic:Insane:
I have a the rack and pinion with tie rods.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f194/assorted-front-end-parts-02-libby-53072/ Click it.
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f194/assorted-front-end-parts-02-libby-53072/ Click it.
tjkj2002
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It's actually the other way aroundnot having the actual 4wd stuff(IE front diff and CV's) puts less strain on the R&P as it has less weight up front and less components(CV's) to fight against then in a 4wd.
Clunking R&P's are actual pretty common,granted more so in WK's.
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