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Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!:-$ My wife is not supposed to know that. I'm trying to justify a lift here.

I get 17.5 avg mpg, being a lead-footed accelerator. The conservative wife gets 14.5 avg mpg. She does more in-town. I do 50/50 hwy/city. My intantanious is 21-22 mpg on the hwy and 14-15 mpg city. Mostly, i just love not caring what mpg I get. I did the math. Cost of ownership is not much...

That is exactly it. It doesn't sound like a bearing though. I think I'll just have to take the whole thing apart. I guess this would be a good time to do a lift!(woot) I mean, while I'm in there taking the whole driver side apart anyway...:D

You could take the physician approach and wait to see if it gets worseheadscratch.gif

I don't know but I'm glad you asked. I want to do the same change out. It's hard to find Leather Taupe 02 Libby driver seat. Besides, I would be happy to get free and clear of that manual recline leaver problem. A good number of poeple have had the leaver mechanism break. Mine is broken now. Let...

With proper care and excessive modification you can keep anything running strong.:D What is the real reason for loosing the Libby? What is so terminal? Engine? Then ungrade:p. Transmission? Convert to 6 speed manual. Every breakdown is an oprotunity to upgrade.(biggthumpup)

I think they are some of the best tires in their class. The price is outstanding compared to other comparable tires.

When I bought my Libby I had a thump in the back when I turned or went over bumps. Changing my rear differential fluid took care of the problem. If this is it, I know what you're talking about. I though it was a bushing or something was loose and shifting. If you haven't changed the fliud, it...

There are many ways to get that thing to stay in place. All of them include some sort of adhesive. Pick your poison.

Though it doesn't help you now, my wife and I put two boosters and a forward facing seat in my KJ with no problem. I just had to learn how to buckle the seatbelt while holding the booster up to expose the latch receiver. You'll see. It's not difficult at all.

AGM (absorbed gas mat). It uses a fiber mat suspended electrolite rather than a liquid. Check out the link for more info. Beware, they cost twice as much.:eek: http://www.dcbattery.com/agmtech.html

I'll do the break check when I get home. Another bit a information that could be helpful: This same sound has been present for the last 1000 miles. There has been no change in intensity or volume. I'm used to bearings getting degenaratively worse over time. If it is the bearing, I want to...

Even with no play on the wheel and no vibration at any speed? I was hoping it was the CV ($60 for a CV or $210 for a Bearing and Hub Assembly).

I considered that. It is making the sound with or without the break being applied. I have new slotted rotors on hand that I purchased for better breaking. I was waiting for the old pads to expire before putting them on.

I got my AT2s last week. I love em. I'm waiting for it to rain so I can check out their wet pavement and mud traction. Did you go with a bigger size? I went from 235/70R16 to 245/70R16. No rubbing.

I have a noise coming from the front driver side. Every rotation of the wheel comes with a chirp or squeek. It is most audible when the wheel first starts moving and becomes barely audible above 30 mph. I've checked for play in the wheel while on jacks. There was no movement. I'm used to a...

Thanks, ya'll! I appreciate the input. Looks like I'll be going with the JBAs.:D

You're not the first to state that. I've only heard good things about the JBA 4.5 a-arms though. How do you feel about JBA a-arms?

Thanks, I wasn't sure. If you don't mind, what factors went into choosing the RROs over the other A arms on the market?

Thanks, I'll check those out. Any opinion on the Al A arms?