Actual Lift Amount - Lets Compare Fender Heights

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My Liberty is stock with 125,500 miles, factory size 225/75r16 Uniroyal Laredo’s. Front measurement 18.25” both side, Rear measurement 19.25” on both sides.
 

lfhoward

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My Liberty is stock with 125,500 miles, factory size 225/75r16 Uniroyal Laredo’s. Front measurement 18.25” both side, Rear measurement 19.25” on both sides.
That’s pretty amazing that your KK has that many miles and the suspension is not sagged! 18 in front and 19 in rear (+/- 1/4”) is the stock height for the KK.
 
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KJ or KK
If KJ you are 3/4 of an inch lower than new stock
If KK you measured wrong
It’s a KJ,2007 model. It seems to me it may need struts. Hits hard when going over bumps, may just be a Jeep thing. This is my first Jeep product so I know nothing about the ride or set up they’re supposed to have.
 

tommudd

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It’s a KJ,2007 model. It seems to me it may need struts. Hits hard when going over bumps, may just be a Jeep thing. This is my first Jeep product so I know nothing about the ride or set up they’re supposed to have.
No it needs springs and shocks all around
Stock suspension is pretty much junk by 65-70,000 miles
Never just replace shocks on these always replace both.
What happens is if you just replace shocks , then with the weak springs it will wear the shocks out faster.
These came with very weak spring rate, only 310 lb, should of been 340-350 with the weight etc

and yes we do have coilover shocks in the front
if you have struts you do not have upper control arms , we do
My suggestion is to goaftermarket if you want stock height OME 925/947 springs , 925s are rated at 350 lb and will provide a much better ride and handling than even new stock ever did
Onmy 04 I bought new, I had replaced the stock suspension before it had 20,000 miles on it with OME
 

Brendon Holt

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Gonna play along for the sake of data:

Pre-lowered 2002 Liberty Sport 4WD 3.7 with ~150k miles

Fronts: 18.75"
Rears: 19.25"

All stock suspension. Sag-city.
 

Dave_too

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Lets all measure our true lifted (or un-lifted) heights. I have a couple of pics below showing how you need to measure so that we are comparing apples to apples. List your year, type of lift, miles on current suspension setup, and front and rear fender heights. List right and left also if they happen to differ more than 1/4". I'd like to see the measurements for as many stock un-lifted KJs too with the least amount of miles so we can help people in the future to tell if/how much their stock springs are sagging. I would also like to see the height from those of you that are SFA'ed. (So the rest of us can be jealous).

07 Liberty with 98,885 miles with about 10.000 or so on the lift

FL 21 in FR 21 in
RL 21 1/2 in RR 21 1/4 in

There's about 40 pounds sitting on the right hand side of the cargo area and Skid Row armour under gas tank, transfer case and trans/engine. I think the cargo weight likely accounts for the side-to-side difference in the rear. I've centered it and I'll see what happens.
 
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Installed 927 and 948 springs last week. 3/8" clevis up front and one extra iso in the rear.

The CV boots are looking very bunched-up and unhappy. Also UCA rubs on spring during high compression. Must have messed up a ball-joint during the work because there is a terrible knocking happening up front. The front springs are horribly stiff. Great on the highway but atrocious offroad. I have to drive way slower than with stock springs now and my teeth are rattling. Hopefully my "lift guy" figures out that something is wrong and we can fix it. Cuz right now its a disaster. Also they can't align it. Front-passenger camber is +1.6 ! He also said he could barely work with these springs they were 4" longer than stock and almost too stiff for his pneumatic spring compressor. Car looks amazing tho...
 
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tommudd

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Installed 927 and 948 springs last week. 3/8" clevis up front and one extra iso in the rear. 22.5" all around after alignment.

The CV boots are looking very bunched-up and unhappy. Also UCA rubs on spring during high compression. Must have messed up a ball-joint during the work because there is a terrible knocking happening up front. The front springs are horribly stiff. Great on the highway but atrocious offroad. I have to drive way slower than with stock springs now and my teeth are rattling. Hopefully my "lift guy" figures out that something is wrong and we can fix it. Cuz right now its a disaster. Also they can't align it. Front-passenger camber is -1.6. He also said he could barely work with these springs they were 4" longer than stock and almost too stiff for his pneumatic spring compressor. Car looks amazing tho...


LOL you need a new guy plus you need to go out and twist it up some and get the springs seated in and broken in
If you think 927s are way to still hate to see what you would say about 790s
If they are too much for his spring compressor he has a weak compressor
remove the clevis lift , that will drop it 3/4 of an inch
 

Doing10to20

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I went with the 926 and they been working good, I dont have any extra weight up front so figured I didn't need the 927 ..hopefully they break in for ya ,nothing worse than being frustrated with your ride after spending money on it
 
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Actually, I just re-measured on flat ground.

Front drivers 22.5"
Front passenger 23.25"
Rear drivers 22.0"
Rear passenger 23.0"

Will re-tighten sway bar link and clevis bolt tomorrow whilst on the ground. Hopefully that is it! Also will probably remove one of the clevis spacers in the front, leaving one behind, because right now its totally level looking with no passengers or cargo.
 
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tommudd

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Actually, I just re-measured on flat ground.

Front drivers 22.5"
Front passenger 23.25"
Rear drivers 22.0"
Rear passenger 23.0"

Will re-tighten sway bar link and clevis bolt tomorrow whilst on the ground. Hopefully that is it! Also will probably remove one of the clevis spacers in the front, leaving one behind, because right now its totally level looking with no passengers or cargo.
Something is installed wrong, find out what that is before removing everything / anything.
With full weight on ground loosen then tighten everything you had apart
 

CrazyDrei

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Getting ready for an eBay spacer lift but mostly so I can fit 33" (closer to 34") tires.

2004 Liberty
412,000 miles
Wouldn't be surprised if springs are original
No front bumper
Shocks may have been replaced at one point
I did remove over 500 lbs from the rear of the KJ

You must be registered for see images attach


Rear pass: 19.75"
Rear drive: 21.0"
Front pass: 17.75"
Front drive: 18.5" (no fender flare)

You must be registered for see images attach


Driver front fender flare is MIA.

Ground to fender height:
Rear pass: 33.75"
Rear drive: 34.25"
Front pass: 31.25"
Front drive: 31.75" (no fender flare)

Will update after eBay spacer lift for hub to fender and once again after tires for ground to fender.
 

CrazyDrei

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eBay spare lift is in! Tractor tires are on as well.

You must be registered for see images attach


2004 Liberty
412,000 miles
Wouldn't be surprised if springs are original
No front bumper
Shocks may have been replaced at one point
I did remove over 500 lbs from the rear of the KJ
2.5" front strut spacers
2" rear coil spacers
Factory shocks in rear
33.25" x 9.5" front tires
33.7" x 9.7" rear tires

You must be registered for see images attach

(you are getting dizzy)

Center hub to fender:
BEFORE LIFT AFTER LIFT
Rear pass: 19.75" 21.5"
Rear drive: 21.0" 21.75"
Front pass: 17.75" 20.25"
Front drive: 18.5" 22.0"

Front driver wheel is missing the fender flare so the measurement does not paint the complete picture.

Ground to fender:
BEFORE LIFT AFTER LIFT
Rear pass: 33.75" 37.25"
Rear drive: 34.25" 37.25"
Front pass: 31.25" 35.25"
Front drive: 31.75" 37.25"
 

Jhkj04

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Is it normal to have the rear not be level? I just added ome crd heavy springs and bilsteins, I went with 2 new and the 1 old upper isolator on top. Set it down and had rear driver 36-3/8 (22-1/4) rear pass 35-7/8 22-(3/4). Tried to spin the pass side spring to raise it up and got barely anything then removed the 1 old factory upper isolator from the driver rear to bring it down and now have driver rear 35-7/8 pass Rear 35-5/8. I can live with this is it ok that the two sides wouldn’t be the same and can I run with it this way? 3 isolators on pass and 2 driver.
 

sleazy rider

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Put it all back together and take it out, twist it up and get the new stuff settled in.
 

Jhkj04

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did that, also juggled the isolators putting the old factory one on top of the passenger side then all 3 back in the driver side and it sits at 36-1/4 driver 36 pass. All done in the rear.
 

sleazy rider

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did that, also juggled the isolators putting the old factory one on top of the passenger side then all 3 back in the driver side and it sits at 36-1/4 driver 36 pass. All done in the rear.

Yeah, it'll settle in even more with some miles on it. 1/4" is negligible and could just be uneven pavement.
 

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