What did you do to your jeep today?

[sota]

welp, 0 for 2 on the jeep
waiting on the replacement hubs to come tomorrow. will plug one of them in and see if I get a speed signal
smoke machine didn't expose any leaks at all. so now I need to potentially drop the evap canister and check for a valve on it that can get wonky and cause this problem
there's an evap pressure PID that doesn't change ever, and I suspect that's not right.
purge cycles like it should, and lets smoke through.
system is tight; can set the smoke machine to the 7psi range, and it still doesn't leak. will pop the adapter out of the gas cap opening though when I cycle the purge on and off.

 

[lfhoward]

On my commander the ESIM was the issue. Replacements are not too expensive (Mopar) and it is a relatively painless swap. Maybe that’s it?

 

[sota]

P0456 in a Jeep Liberty indicates a small leak in the evaporative emission control (EVAP) system, which is triggered by pressure loss, not the physical size of the leak. While the fuel cap is the most common cause, the leak detection pump (also called the integrity monitor or EVAP monitor pump) is a known culprit, especially if the code persists after checking simpler components.
Key Points:
The leak detection pump is located on the charcoal canister, typically under the left rear tire splash shield. It’s responsible for pressurizing the EVAP system during self-tests.
If the pump develops an internal leak or fails, it can cause a P0456 code even without visible external leaks.
Symptoms: Intermittent Check Engine Light, no noticeable drivability issues, but the system fails self-tests.
Diagnosis: A smoke test is the most reliable method to confirm a leak. If no visible leaks are found, the pump should be tested or replaced.
Solutions:
Start with the fuel cap: Ensure it’s tight, OEM-quality, and seals properly.
Inspect hoses and connections: Look for cracks, dry rot, or loose fittings.
Perform a smoke test: Required to detect small, hidden leaks.
Test or replace the leak detection pump: If all else fails, especially if the pump is known to fail in your model year (common in 2007–2012 Liberty models).
Consider a PCM flash: Some vehicles have software updates that resolve false P0456 codes.

Since:
fuel cap was swapped for a known good one.
hoses show no signs of issues (smoke test revealed no leaks)
Purge valve works properly
guess I'll pick up an LDP tomorrow, since I *just* put in an order to Rock Auto the other day.

 

[sota]

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I feel like that 'Purge Air Flow' PID shouldn't always be zero.

 

[sota]

I can't even borrow that 'pump' from the parts jeep; parts is an 06... mine's an 07.
*********

 

[derekj]

and I have another dash emoji. MIL kicked on yesterday. going to find in a bit. Autel MS906Pro is gonna get some use again!

how do you like your scan tool? I'm looking for a backup for the shop and don't want to spend Snap-on money.

 

[derekj]

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I feel like that 'Purge Air Flow' PID shouldn't always be zero.

what does the fuel tank pressure pid read with the koeo and the gas cap off?

 

[sota]

how do you like your scan tool? I'm looking for a backup for the shop and don't want to spend Snap-on money.

Knowing what I know now, would I buy my Autel MS 906Pro again? no. I'd go with either a TopDon UltraDiag (which I've tested when I was doing keys, but returned because it didn't do anything more than my Autel), or the ThinkScan 689BT, which I've heard really good things about.
I also have an Autel KM100E for doing key/transponder work as well.
But that's hindsight being 20/20. The Autel tools have paid for themselves in my opinion though, even though I don't keep it updated since all my cars are old.

 

[sota]

what does the fuel tank pressure pid read with the koeo and the gas cap off?

never changes. stays 0 the whole time. and I even had the system pressurized with the smoke machine, and it still didn't move.

 

[sota]

ABS problem is solved. had to replace the hub as the tone ring looks like it's worn down or something. tested the new sensor in a new hub and it worked, so I took that back out and will put it in storage. now I only have 1 new spare hub left.

orderd the LDP and a new gas cap from amazon. should be here in a couple of days.

 

[CherokeeLiberty]

We put over 500 miles on the jerp today to go look for a ‘new’ 09-11 Mercury Mariner for my wife. She smoked a deer and totaled hers a couple weeks ago. We test drove an ‘08 that this lot just got in. The trxnny doesn’t know how to shift properly. It ran out the gears to red line and held for a few seconds before shifting. It also seemed to not have overdrive. On top of that, they put on some cheesy fender trims to hide the rust. Easy pass.

 

[sota]

this is half my problem with a lot of things I'm looking at.
their distance means, I'm likely to buy it as I don't want to waste my time.
but that means I have to come in at a lowball entry price in case it needs a lot of work to make viable.
that and sellers just don't want to bother with the details (which INCREASES value btw!) so they're all "I know what I got!"

 

[lfhoward]

I drove the Jeep Liberty into Philly today for weekend errands. Back in October we traded our Commander for a little electric 2016 Ford Focus. The Ford has taken over all my commuting duties, and literally costs 1/6 to operate relative to Jeepy’s 8 mpg in the city. The kids have the Ford today for a Valentine’s Day outing, so we went old school and drove the Liberty!

The KK is perfect for longer trips, towing, and off road driving that we do for fun and that I do for work. I am happy to keep daily commuting miles off it though, since she passed 224,000 miles on the odometer in January. But being lifted as she is, I do enjoy driving her in the city because I can see everything and people give it space and cut me off way less than they do if I’m driving the car.

 

[sota]

This is similar to why I have the 2013 Fiat 500e now.
Well that and, I've wanted one since pre-'rona, and I got it stupid cheap because it was broken.
$2200 invested so far, gets 70 miles range in the summer (~40 in the winter, really ******* EVs), but for a good 90% of our driving needs, it does it fine.

Like you my Jeep does Mule Duties(tm).

 

[sota]

ABS problem: solved
GASCAP problem: now become a full blown P0456 EVAP code as soon as you start the jeep and drive it.
LDP scheduled to be here 2/18

 

[lfhoward]

This is similar to why I have the 2013 Fiat 500e now.
Well that and, I've wanted one since pre-'rona, and I got it stupid cheap because it was broken.
$2200 invested so far, gets 70 miles range in the summer (~40 in the winter, really ******* EVs), but for a good 90% of our driving needs, it does it fine.

Like you my Jeep does Mule Duties(tm).

Mule duties, yes.

The Ford Focus Electric is essentially the same generation as your Fiat 500e and has the same range stats in summer and winter! That’s awesome.

I’m hoping it will last me a few good years. I have calculated that if I can put 20,000 miles on it, the Ford will have paid for itself relative to Jeep gas for the same distance. I paid a bit more for this one, because it was essentially new and had only 3500 miles on it! It was owned by an elderly person who stopped driving. I have no idea how the battery handles 10 years of neglect… no idea if it was plugged in or not… but it seems to do great!

 

[seafish]

@burntkat

Today on my 2005 KJ…

1) I rolled back the sunroof,
2) DISCONNECTED the battery ground wire,
3) released the wind deflector limit straps and folded the deflector rearwards
4) removed the drivers side kick panel and rolled up the carpet and foam and stuffed the carpet and foam behind the brake pedal,
5) used a 90° plastic pry bar to pull the large white wiring harness off its TWO mounting clips,
6) reached ABOVE the wire harness and BEHIND the hood release cable and
7) FINALLY pulled out the grommet, STILL with the sunroof drain tube attached, from the kick/fender well.

Once the grommet with the drain tube was removed, I carefully turned and pulled both as far as I could into the cab (only a couple inches), and then cut a piece of .130" x 6' trimmer line.

I ran the trimmer line UP through the drain until it exited at the sunroof. The .130" string line was EASY to push through the entire drain tube.

I push & pulled the line several times in both directions and then pulled it all the way out and did the same thing all over again SEVERAL more times.

FINALLY, I used a high volume air nozzle with a rubber tip and 80 psi to blow back UP through the line, (from the drain grommet now inside the cab, near the firewall and up to the sunroof drain hole).
It was MUCH easier to get a leak free seal with the air nozzle on the drain tube then blowing down from the sunroof and I think it was all worth the effort!!!

NOTE — the same thing can be done even more easily on the PS side by removing the grommet and drain tube from behind and under the glove box and PS kick panel. There is NO wire bundle in the way, though of course it is still an awkward stretch and reach to get to the drain tube/grommet behind the glove box.

The good news is that I finally had high flow air coming out the top of the drain, which was not necessarily the case last time I ONLY used air to try to resolve the drain issue by blowing DOWN and out from the sunroof side.

Put everything back together and am HOPING that his will solve my wet carpet after rain issues…

If it does NOT, then something else entirely is causing the leak in the front drivers side carpet, though Im not sure what that would be.

Pix with kick panel already removed —

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[2TALL1]

@burntkat

Today on my 2005 KJ…

1) I rolled back the sunroof,
2) DISCONNECTED the battery ground wire,
3) released the wind deflector limit straps and folded the deflector rearwards
4) removed the drivers side kick panel and rolled up the carpet and foam and stuffed the carpet and foam behind the brake pedal,
5) used a 90° plastic pry bar to pull the large white wiring harness off its TWO mounting clips,
6) reached ABOVE the wire harness and BEHIND the hood release cable and
7) FINALLY pulled out the grommet, STILL with the sunroof drain tube attached, from the kick/fender well.

Once the grommet with the drain tube was removed, I carefully turned and pulled both as far as I could into the cab (only a couple inches), and then cut a piece of .130" x 6' trimmer line.

I ran the trimmer line UP through the drain until it exited at the sunroof. The .130" string line was EASY to push through the entire drain tube.

I push & pulled the line several times in both directions and then pulled it all the way out and did the same thing all over again SEVERAL more times.

FINALLY, I used a high volume air nozzle with a rubber tip and 80 psi to blow back UP through the line, (from the drain grommet now inside the cab, near the firewall and up to the sunroof drain hole).
It was MUCH easier to get a leak free seal with the air nozzle on the drain tube then blowing down from the sunroof and I think it was all worth the effort!!!

NOTE — the same thing can be done even more easily on the PS side by removing the grommet and drain tube from behind and under the glove box and PS kick panel. There is NO wire bundle in the way, though of course it is still an awkward stretch and reach to get to the drain tube/grommet behind the glove box.

The good news is that I finally had high flow air coming out the top of the drain, which was not necessarily the case last time I ONLY used air to try to resolve the drain issue by blowing DOWN and out from the sunroof side.

Put everything back together and am HOPING that his will solve my wet carpet after rain issues…

If it does NOT, then something else entirely is causing the leak in the front drivers side carpet, though Im not sure what that would be.

Pix with kick panel already removed —

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Great write up

 

[mike]

The KK is perfect for longer trips, towing, and off road driving that we do for fun and that I do for work.

What kind of work?

 

[lfhoward]

What kind of work?

I am a forest ecologist and my research area is in how historic forest fires have shaped the woods we have now. Many oak and pine forests in the east have had little fire in the last 100 years, even though before that fires routinely burned the woods less than every 10 years. I am a professor but I collaborate with The Nature Conservancy and state & federal agencies to help inform development of their controlled burn programs to help forests regenerate. The Jeeping I do takes me up mountains and down gated forest roads (two-tracks usually) but also bulldozed firebreaks and power line cuts. I look for trees and logs that have fire-scars on them, chainsaw sections of those scars out, take them back to the lab, sand them down, measure and date the tree rings, and put together forest fire histories for these sites.

Going out to collect fire scar samples in western Maryland.

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Pitch pine is an example of a fire adapted tree. It has thick bark to insulate it from heat, can regrow needles that burn off, has deep roots, resprouting abilities, and serotinous cones that open to release their seeds after they are super-heated by a fire.

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Aftermath of a wildfire in southern New Jersey

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The green vegetation is back within a month! The blueberry crop will be incredible, and pine seedlings and resprouts are common.

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It’s fun to explore forest roads. Am I at work or playing around?

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