What did you do to your jeep today?

[CherokeeLiberty]

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Today I bought a 22 mm wrench and a Bernzomatic torch with the yellow MAPP gas canister. I will no longer be asking nicely.

It can’t be tight if it’s liquid…

 

[KJowner]

My rear main has a small leak, I see it as built in corrosion protection

 

[ikuo78]

The valve cover is still dripping oil.
I removed the grommet from the mounting bolt and checked the tightening, but it was only compressed by 0.5 mm.
Perhaps a plastic valve cover grommet was included by mistake.
The grommet was only 5 mm thick.
While I wait for the plastic cover to arrive, I am observing it with a 0.5 mm U-shaped shim sandwiched between the grommet.
It is a mystery whether the bolt sleeve is crushable.
It probably will not seat at the specified torque, so it may be crushed to protect the head threads in the event of excessive torque.

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[lfhoward]

It can’t be tight if it’s liquid…

Looks like I may not have time to get to this until the weekend. But I will post the results. I will try not to burn down my Jeep.

 

[RonP]

Sometimes you can't get them to stop leaking without using the u shape with the two wings so it pulls down on more of the cover. Old school fix!!

 

[ikuo78]

Sometimes you can't get them to stop leaking without using the u shape with the two wings so it pulls down on more of the cover. Old school fix!!

But I would be in trouble if this method completely fixed the oil leak.
The plastic valve cover, which cost $120 including shipping, has already been shipped.
By the way, the original grommets were 6.5 to 7 mm thick.
If you have a steel valve cover, you shouldn't trust the grommets that come with the gasket.

 

[Johnny O]

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:facepalm:

D'oh!

 

[Johnny O]

Got the new starter in Bert. All is well. Up and running on the factory drive train with 300k miles on it.
Kids bought the wrong one initially. After a talk with the guys at NAPA (Oh, yeah, forgot to mention their regional manager is a friend I've done business with for decades) Got a brand new starter in the exchange rather than an random refurb.

Kids need to do the rear brakes themselves. I done did ever' ting else.


Note for all yinze: NAPA is owned by Motion Industries, an industrial supplier. Good thing I maintain all my old industrial connections.

 

[Noclutch]

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Quick Update
(2) Oem Engine Core Plugs “one above the starter, one above the right motor mount
New Front right Motor Mount
Oem Mopar idle pulley and tensioner
Mishimoto Radiator

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[DeVilliers]

I trust you replaced the belt as well, while you're at it.

 

[Noclutch]

I trust you replaced the belt as well, while you're at it.

Nope
Im running a spare belt I had laying around that was from the 04 kj, its not in the best condition but I’ll get to it sooner or later. For now I need to break off a lug nut on the front right tire. To be able service the suspension, brakes, and rack and pinion bushings.

 

[lfhoward]

Arrived:

- PML finned, aluminum, deep transmission pan with new stainless steel hardware
- Mopar ATF+4, 8 quarts
- Mopar transmission filter and O-ring
- Fel-Pro rubber transmission gasket
- Aftermarket transmission dipstick with cm markings (since the 08 KK doesn’t come with one)

It is supposed to rain this weekend, but this job is on my short list after replacing a stuck oxygen sensor.

Hopefully the transmission will go another 60k miles!

 

[seafish]

- Mopar ATF+4, 8 quarts

For future reference, you do not necessarily have to buy the more expensive Mopar branded ATF+4 since ANY brand ATF+4 is actually licensed by Mopar and must meet Mopar ATF+4 specifications.

 

[LFX1]

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Quick Update
(2) Oem Engine Core Plugs “one above the starter, one above the right motor mount
New Front right Motor Mount
Oem Mopar idle pulley and tensioner
Mishimoto Radiator

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Question about your motor mount, so it went bad and you replaced it? I have an odd knocking , it sounds like a dead strut they were new about 1.5 years ago less than 1500 miles on them and the whole front end, then all suddent I have this knocking up front when hitting bumps, which what to me sounds like a dead strut, but I thought it could be another mount. The shop that does the alignment can't find any front end issues, tie rods, ball joints or anything loose. So I was leaning toward s dead strut, or a motor mount, the diff mounts do show fatigue but no movement or anything i can see no loose debris or anything. So this knock is a baffling sound. I had a car that had a bad transmission mount that the mount and rubber broke look it was really hard to tell as the weight of the engine was on it, just by chance I found noticed it loose jacking the car up.

How did you know the motor mount was bad, and when you say you replaced core plugs, are those the freeze plugs in the block? did the rust or come loose ?

Thanks,

 

[Noclutch]

Yes

Engine Core plugs = Freeze Plugs

The Freeze plugs became loose and fell off, leaving an open hole on the engine block. (where I would enjoy watching the Waterfall of coolant I just pour go to waste) I wish I taken photos of the new freeze plugs pressed onto the block but I was rushing to move the Renegade already.

The main reason I replaced the Motor mount was because it was in the way of the Freeze Plug that needed replacing plus I think Rockauto was having a sale for motor mounts.

I didn’t know the motor mount was bad till I removed it. The rubber on the mount had a giant crack on it. I wouldn’t look at myself the same if I went through all that trouble and didn’t replace the mount.

Right Motor Mount
DEA / MARMON RIDE A3014

Freeze Plug
6034804AB

 

[duderz7]

If one motor mount was in need of replacement it's likely the other does as well as the transmission mount.

 

[KJowner]

Check your upper and lower ball joints, they are the no1 cause of knocking noises & if ignored the wheel will fall off!!

 

[Noclutch]

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Let’s see how this goes…

 

[CherokeeLiberty]

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Let’s see how this goes…

It looks like you've already tried the 'fist to the center cap' method. It's a logical first step, yet unfortunately doesn't help a whole lot. good luck, buddy! Keep us posted.