Discussion in 'KJ General Discussion' started by TheQ, Feb 13, 2012.
Vacuumed, washed and put a coat of Ceramic Hybrid Wax on. Mulling over if I like the results or not. I may need to do a really hard deep wash and possibly claybar next time before doing the Ceramic, tomorrow might throw a coat of my Fast Wax on.
always clay bar.
Which requires time, and weather that won't kill ya. Been in the 90's with heat indexes near 100 with humidity. I did this quick and ''dirty'' so to speak in the car wash while it was still above 90 degrees so I had ''shade'' to apply it.
Thanks for reminding me to buy a new 12 volt clamp on adapter for the Jeep. I gotta go to Harbor Freight in a few days for some solar lighting for my dog run fence, and I'll add this to the order: https://www.harborfreight.com/12-volt-battery-to-lighter-socket-extension-cord-66407.html
^ That is a Handy extension cord to have!
I still prefer having an AGM powered compressor over the small cig lighter ones.
I have seen the cig lighter ends melt from longer than 6 minute compressor usage on some of them.
Consider checking the ends temps & let em cool down, if you find them getting hot.
I keep checking mine too, especially after the OME lift, still tight. Keep expecting them to be worn and loose, my boot looks great too- surprising.
My Walker SoundFX install went well, considering. I fought with the two flange bolts/studs on the old one. Not enough room for a reciprocating saw to get in there, dremel tool was not quite right either. Hacksaw'd the first stud, then got out the 4.5" angle grinder and ground the nut off the other. Install was good, except that the factory muffler to tailpipe connection was not the same; OE had the tailpipe fitting over the muffler outlet, then welded. Both of my pipes were the same size, so I butt-fitted it together with an exhaust band clamp instead.
It's so quiet I can't hear the thing from inside with the windows closed. Perfect. Now all I hear is my wopped out tires. Still looking for one more Moab rim locally, then new tires.
Going to need to cut out and weld in some replacement rocker panels soon. That's the worst of the corrosion on this Michigan Jeep. I think I could just get some sheet metal the right length and width, have it bend to match the curve from the pinch weld area to the upper rocker portion where it approaches the door, weld that in myself.. have concave rocker panels then instead of convex (rounded inward instead of outward).
Could then fab up some brackets, weld them to the new rockers, then weld some tube to those as pseudo rock sliders/something to step up on.
Replaced the blower motor resistor and cleaned the condenser with Simple Green then water to rinse.
AC worked perfectly all day and I have airflow on the lowest fan setting.
Ugh, no more Moog products for me... I was checking the suspension, trying to track down the source of some weird noises. Both of the LBJs seem to be in pretty bad shape (the boots at least). They are only about a year old, and have been greased 3 or 4 times in that year. The rubber of the bushings in the front UCAs is all cracked. The steering rack bushings (replaced only like 8 months ago) both look awful (and I made sure no oil got on them during oil changes).
1.5 year or more on mine, no issues on the LBJs , just checked them last night .
problem is nothing else, but junk
Had a Moog wheel bearing on my KJ, put on right after I bought it, it didn't last 1000 miles and was already bad. I've decided to stay away from them since it seems their quality has taken a downhill turn.
Wiped it down this morning after I got to work, I went over to the pleased side of the fence with the Ceramic Coating held up extremely well with the rain storm last night. As soon as it stops raining again, I'll probably take a towel and wipe it down again.
Bought some LED replacements for the gear shift indicator(2721). Went with the only one on amazon that had actual measurements, So I could compare it with a micrometer to the incan bulb, but it took nearly a month to get here. I liked that they also had LED's on only the sides, which lined up with the plastic light tube, and none on top. I had to slightly round the bottom corners off with my Gerber to get it to center and slide into the connectors, but it looks nice now, and it'll probably outlive her. Sadly no before pictures, but here is after:
wheel bearings should only be Timken. Just like spark plugs in chryslers should (almost) only be champion and copper (except when they use NGK from the factory.)
I've gotten some sketchy Timken bearings lately. I wonder if SKF are still good?
Struggled for traction today in a deep rut getting twisty. I think it was due to lack of flexibility in the rear. So I removed the "sway bar" while replacing rear brakes and rotors tires. It was a good day for Bluebert. Sign notice about difference in the on Street test drive, hope I get back to the dirt soon.
I shall call mine...
... or ...
... or ...
Well not really KJ related but just ordered two Timken hub assemblies for my Ranger. Almost went with the SKF but figured it'd be a good test. Had Raybestos on it for two years and I found both loose today while cranking up my torsion bars to level it a bit.
From what I've heard from mechanics, Timken are now almost completely made in China. SKF are still made in US.
Take that for what it's worth, as I have Timken hub assemblies on my Astro and on my Jeep, but they are now well over 5 years old.
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