KJ604's build thread

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HoosierJeeper

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Did you use a C-clamp ball joint press to press the new ones in?
 

KJ604

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Just wanted to know for if/when I go to do this!

Oh gotcha. Yes definitely get a press it will come in handy both removing old and installing new. To get my old ones out I put a few drill holes in the rubber then used the press to press the center metal piece out. Then i took a hacksaw and cut the outer metal piece though. Then I smashed the old sleeve in on itself everywhere I could and just used the screw from the press as a large drift and smacked it out from there

then for the new ones I hammered them in at first to get them started. I used a 4lb sledge and one of the adapters from the press kit. Once the bushing was started a bit I could still hit it around a bit to get it square then pressed it in from there.
 

KJ604

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Update time.

First the height difference on the front. The front spring have settled back down. Need to get an alignment and level out the DS with the PS. I think the whole front is sitting at an acceptable height now but just still unlevel side to side.

Next, there was a clunking coming from what sounded like the front right to me. Every time the front right dropped, ie - off a curb or over a speed bump quickly, there was a good size metal on metal clunk. I replaced the stabilizer bar bushings first and the clunk was happening less. It would have to be a really good bump to make it make the noise. Then I replaced the stabilizer links and I have yet to hear the noise again.

Also I installed the y-link extension on the rear. I went with the 0 washer setting and there is a very minor vibration at 50 kmh. only at that speed and 5kmh either side and very minor so I think im not going to mess with it.

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N132L's have also been installed on the rear. Dont think I notice any difference in the ride but Im glad they're on there if i need them and I like the look of the yellow metal boot instead of ugly plastic anyways.

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I also bought myself a nice little utility trailer and did my first towing with this rig. The mopar 7 pin wiring harness i bought works flawlessly. got the plug mounted up properly and just use the 4 pin adapter with my trailer.

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also changed my oil this past weekend at 105000kms.

I feel like im actually chipping away at the to-do list now. I know it never really ends but I felt like it was really stacking up there for a bit.
 

KJ604

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Great job all the way through! :favorites13:

Thanks prof!

Forgot to mention that when I did my oil change I put in a little bit less than recommended. Maybe 250ml less around there somewhere but no more than that. And the idle is much much quieter. I saw someone post soemthing about this a while back so I wanted to try and it definitely works. The oil is still in the cross-hatches on the dipstick but it is on the lower end and there is practically no ticking at idle
 

profdlp

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That is interesting. I always err on the low side when refilling after an oil change. It's a whole lot easier to top it off than it is to drain some out.
 

KJ604

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That is interesting. I always err on the low side when refilling after an oil change. It's a whole lot easier to top it off than it is to drain some out.

Exactly haha thats the way to do it!

But its funny, I have a car and I have to keep the oil level right at the top of the cross hatches otherwise I get a low oil warning.

On my last oil change on the jeep I didnt top the oil right up to the top but I was above the halfway point of the cross hatches a little.

This motor seems to idle quieter at least with the oil near the bottom of the cross hatches. In my mind I feel its still safe because its in that zone and my motor isnt burning any oil and I keep my eye on oil levels anyways. But once youre just inside that zone on the dipstick I dont see a need to top up further than that if it stops the motor from sounding like its rattling when idling
 

profdlp

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For much of my life I had leaky old cars. I'd routinely fill to the top of the safe zone just so I wouldn't have to top off again so soon. :happy175:

My Jeep has never needed a drop. (Knock wood)
 

KJ604

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For an oil change, you guys don't just pour in 5 quarts and call it good???

I put approximately 250ml less than the recommended amount of 4.7 liters (5 quarts) and my idle is much quieter now. this means I put in approx 4.5 liters or 4.75 quarts
 
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