Is 54K too old to switch to synthetic oil?

[LibertyTC]

Oil Weights are only factor.

This is an interesting thread. Regardless of the 0 vs 5-30 debate, all of our concerns are about longevity of our engines. Yes we would all like to get 250k Miles out of our motors.
The reality is that often we get disappointed due to worn rings & springs/ main bearings.
There is no doubt that that a good synthetic motor oil will flow better, has better cleaning proprieties and overall provide a cleaner motor with better engine parts lubrication.
What really bothers me is those that use synthetics and extend their change intervals to double or more the recommended 3,500 mileage change.
Considering that a gas engine produces carbon by-products through gasoline being sprayed into cylinders, it makes only common sense that any oil will became contaminated, reducing the effectiveness (and cleanliness) of the motor oil.
There are many articles that state by 1500 miles the oil's effectiveness has already been reduced by 20 percent of new oil. Yes when you mix gas into oil, it thins the oil.
In these conditions would I really want to use 0 weight? Probably not.
Your dipstick cleanliness check should be the proof.
When motor oil /filter is new you dipstick shows completely clear. Look at it again at 1500 miles. Has it turned a bit browinsh? Yes it has.
Considering the better cleaning properties of synthetic oil, look at it again at 2000-2500 miles. If it's looking a bit dirty at the dipstick, it's worse in the pan.
I would like to say the regardless of oil used, you are better off to change motor oils, based on the color of oil (contamination) and consider changing them at 2500 miles.O

 

[RageOfFury]

This is an interesting thread. Regardless of the 0 vs 5-30 debate, all of our concerns are about longevity of our engines. Yes we would all like to get 250k Miles out of our motors.
The reality is that often we get disappointed due to worn rings & springs/ main bearings.
There is no doubt that that a good synthetic motor oil will flow better, has better cleaning proprieties and overall provide a cleaner motor with better engine parts lubrication.
What really bothers me is those that use synthetics and extend their change intervals to double or more the recommended 3,500 mileage change.
Considering that a gas engine produces carbon by-products through gasoline being sprayed into cylinders, it makes only common sense that any oil will became contaminated, reducing the effectiveness (and cleanliness) of the motor oil.
There are many articles that state by 1500 miles the oil's effectiveness has already been reduced by 20 percent of new oil. Yes when you mix gas into oil, it thins the oil.
In these conditions would I really want to use 0 weight? Probably not.
Your dipstick cleanliness check should be the proof.
When motor oil /filter is new you dipstick shows completely clear. Look at it again at 1500 miles. Has it turned a bit browinsh? Yes it has.
Considering the better cleaning properties of synthetic oil, look at it again at 2000-2500 miles. If it's looking a bit dirty at the dipstick, it's worse in the pan.
I would like to say the regardless of oil used, you are better off to change motor oils, based on the color of oil (contamination) and consider changing them at 2500 miles.O

A true synthetic like German Castrol(and Amsoil, M1 EP) can easily go 7000 miles. UOA have proven this time and time again. Check out all the various group IV/PAO true synthetic threads online for proof.

I wouldn't push a group III "synthetic" that far that's for sure. 4000-4500 max. 3500 max with conventional oil.

 

[tjkj2002]

A true synthetic like German Castrol(and Amsoil, M1 EP) can easily go 7000 miles. UOA have proven this time and time again. Check out all the various group IV/PAO true synthetic threads online for proof.

I wouldn't push a group III "synthetic" that far that's for sure. 4000-4500 max. 3500 max with conventional oil.

Just because it's online does not mean it's true.

AtoB you guys are losing me....
am i OK to use 0W-30 Castrol Syntec?

If you live in a area that regularly see's -65+ degree temps then you'd be okay,if you rarely see colder temps then -20 degrees 5w-30 is the best.

 

[ridenby]

The problem with extended change intervals,as I see it,is few do oil analysis so its just a guess as to whether oil is still good or not,then comes filter volume,how much dirt can it hold,stock 3.7 filter is tiny.Personally I go with "Grease is cheap,parts ain't" .

 

[RageOfFury]

Just because it's online does not mean it's true.

If you live in a area that regularly see's -65+ degree temps then you'd be okay,if you rarely see colder temps then -20 degrees 5w-30 is the best.

And just because you say so does not mean it's true as well...sorry but GC has been tested over and over and over again. It's a proven oil. It's backed by a HUGE following as well. But if you going to close your eyes and stick to the same old school rhetoric then I'm no longer gonna waste my breath. The proof is there. Nuff said.[-(

Oh and the whole "0W-30 is too thin" thing is a myth. It's pure bs1.gif

 

[AtoB]

Just because it's online does not mean it's true.

If you live in a area that regularly see's -65+ degree temps then you'd be okay,if you rarely see colder temps then -20 degrees 5w-30 is the best.

i'm in boston... we se it all... cold winters, and hot summers... although, rarely does it drop below 10˙ or go above 100˙... so should i be using 5w-30?

 

[tjkj2002]

i'm in boston... we se it all... cold winters, and hot summers... although, rarely does it drop below 10˙ or go above 100˙... so should i be using 5w-30?

Yes,more so in the summer time and is more easily found also and far less costly.

 

[tjkj2002]

And just because you say so does not mean it's true as well...sorry but GC has been tested over and over and over again. It's a proven oil. It's backed by a HUGE following as well. But if you going to close your eyes and stick to the same old school rhetoric then I'm no longer gonna waste my breath. The proof is there. Nuff said.[-(

Oh and the whole "0W-30 is too thin" thing is a myth. It's pure bs1.gif

The only proof I've seen is more engine wear,personal experience from actually tearing apart a engine using to thin of oil then spec'ed for and running way to long between oil changes.That's my proof and the only one that counts since it was right in front of me in plan daylight.

 

[AtoB]

Yes,more so in the summer time and is more easily found also and far less costly.

less costly?

 

[RageOfFury]

The only proof I've seen is more engine wear,personal experience from actually tearing apart a engine using to thin of oil then spec'ed for and running way to long between oil changes.That's my proof and the only one that counts since it was right in front of me in plan daylight.

0W-30 is "perhaps" thin, but German Castrol 0w-30 is not. It's the thickest 0W-30 oil on the market. If you took the time to read the threads, the reports you would see this. But of course, you didn't. You see 0W-30 and out comes the rhetoric.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=718643&page=1

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-...-8000-miles-with-castrol-0w30.html?forum_id=1

http://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...t-german-castrol-0-30-vs-mobile-1-5-30-a.html

I'm sorry for being harsh and "attacking" you, but I can't sit by while you give out obsolete information. It's nothing personal.

 

[tjkj2002]

0w-30 is not too thin...jesus! It's time you woke up...we are in 2009, not 1989. There are a ton of reports, tests and analysts of 0W-30 oil that shoot you right down. Take the time to read the threads, the reports for christ sake instead of replying with obsolete rhetoric.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=718643&page=1

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-...-8000-miles-with-castrol-0w30.html?forum_id=1

http://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...t-german-castrol-0-30-vs-mobile-1-5-30-a.html

If you can't take the time to or you simply don't want to update your automotive knowledge, then you shouldn't be giving advice IMO.

I'm sorry for being harsh and "attacking" you, but I can't sit by while you give out obsolete information. It's nothing personal.

Your not getting from the long term longevity point of view.If your only keeping your vehicle for say 3-4 years sure you will be fine but are passing on a costly mistake to the next buyer.Real world experience is far better then what "Joe Bob" say's on a internet forum and what some lab does in a test.


If a engine is spec'ed for a certain weight of oil using any other weight will degrade the engine.That spec'ed weight of oil was chosen so as to have the correct oil pressure at certain temps and rpm,a lighter weight or heavier weight oil changes that and accelerated wear will happen and/or covering a internal problem with the engine.

 

[RageOfFury]

Your not getting from the long term longevity point of view.If your only keeping your vehicle for say 3-4 years sure you will be fine but are passing on a costly mistake to the next buyer.Real world experience is far better then what "Joe Bob" say's on a internet forum and what some lab does in a test.


If a engine is spec'ed for a certain weight of oil using any other weight will degrade the engine.That spec'ed weight of oil was chosen so as to have the correct oil pressure at certain temps and rpm,a lighter weight or heavier weight oil changes that and accelerated wear will happen and/or covering a internal problem with the engine.

Well let's hook up in 7-8 years when I still have my KJ and see who was right. I believe the UOA from GC users and I believe the specs that Castrol gives out then the word of 1 person that opened 1 engine that might have been beat to $hit who knows. Joe bob on an internet forum huh? Look in the mirror my friend.

All I'm saying is that take the time at least to read the threads. Be objective and open minded.

Anyway, every car, engine, use is different. German Castrol is a great oil. Sure it's not for everyone, but enthusiast alike totally love it, so do their engines.

I stand by my choice to use GC in my KJ. It's backed by tests, reports, real world experiences a mile high. And no it's not too thin, check the specs.

 

[tjkj2002]

Well let's hook up in 7-8 years when I still have my KJ and see who was right. I believe the UOA from GC users and I believe the specs that Castrol gives out then the word of 1 person that opened 1 engine that might have been beat to $hit who knows. Joe bob on an internet forum huh? Look in the mirror my friend.

All I'm saying is that take the time at least to read the threads. Be objective and open minded.

Anyway, every car, engine, use is different. German Castrol is a great oil. Sure it's not for everyone, but enthusiast alike totally love it, so do their engines.

I stand by my choice to use GC in my KJ. It's backed by tests, reports, real world experiences a mile high. And no it's not too thin, check the specs.

Yeah and they also had a mile high list of claims that said those Split Fire split fire spark plugs gave you 30 more HP,there's a mile high long list that the "tornado" gives you 25hp and 2-3 more mpg's.The best one was how you could run without any coolant or engine oil after treating your engine with Duralube.Seen all those gimmick adds,your just trying to sell one yourself.

When you hit 150,000miles(if you hit that much) tear apart your engine and dig out the micrometers and plasticguage,I'll do the same at 150,000miles and I bet my clearances will be better then yours.

 

[RageOfFury]

Yeah and they also had a mile high list of claims that said those Split Fire split fire spark plugs gave you 30 more HP,there's a mile high long list that the "tornado" gives you 25hp and 2-3 more mpg's.The best one was how you could run without any coolant or engine oil after treating your engine with Duralube.Seen all those gimmick adds,your just trying to sell one yourself.

When you hit 150,000miles(if you hit that much) tear apart your engine and dig out the micrometers and plasticguage,I'll do the same at 150,000miles and I bet my clearances will be better then yours.

LOL! My god man...apples and oranges...apples and fking oranges!

The facts are there, yet you ignore them and keep on bashing and slamming the product and the people who use it. That's what we internet folks call trolling and we don't need that here.

Listen, if you had used the product and tested it and came to the conclusion your talking about then fine I would accept that. BUT YOU HAVEN'T USED IT!

Anyway...

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Listen AtoB, if your not sure if you should use German Castrol, then pull up Google and do your research. Then come to a decision.

That's what I did and what any smart consumer should do. Read the facts, read what people who have used the product have to say and then make a decision.

 

[Redbone]

Our dyno always whows 40 to give more h.p. That indicates better lubrication. Engine wear that we see indicates same.

Due to southern climate we have no problem starting vehicles with 10W. I prefer heavier weight already in the contact areas so this works in favor.

The combination of the 2 above makes the best choice for me to be simple - 10W-40. I know, I know, mfg says ..... Screw them. Their numbers are set based on tree huggers modified according to climate.

My only dislike is the split. 10W with VIIs to raise it to 40W. I don't like VIIs due to shear but 10W to start means it won't shear too low if I change it often enough .... and I do.

 

[tjkj2002]

Our dyno always whows 40 to give more h.p. That indicates better lubrication. Engine wear that we see indicates same.

Due to southern climate we have no problem starting vehicles with 10W. I prefer heavier weight already in the contact areas so this works in favor.

The combination of the 2 above makes the best choice for me to be simple - 10W-40. I know, I know, mfg says ..... Screw them. Their numbers are set based on tree huggers modified according to climate.

My only dislike is the split. 10W with VIIs to raise it to 40W. I don't like VIIs due to shear but 10W to start means it won't shear too low if I change it often enough .... and I do.

At least someone is getting the point(somewhat) and has known about it for some time.

As far as the treehuggers you can thank them for the 5w-20,and 0w-30 oils,stupid California.

 

[RageOfFury]

Yeah you can thank CAFE for 5W-20. Better MPG at the detriment of engine life...real smart Washington/Sacramento. I sure hope all of you with 07 KJs and KKs aren't using 5W-20...

0W-30 has nothing to do with tree huggers though. You can thank Mercedes, BMW and VW for that. 0W-30 is pretty much all they use in Europe.

Oh, tjkj2002, nothing personal my friend. Just a very heated debate hehe

Can we agree to disagree?

 

[Redbone]

As far as the treehuggers you can thank them for the 5w-20,and 0w-30 oils,stupid California.

Without the stupidity they have enforced on us we would not have very much of this to discuss.

Regarding your point as I understand it, we would choose the same weight I believe. I want the first number as high as the climate allows. I want the second number at 30 for the everyday driver and 40 for heavy duty driving. Am I close?

 

[tjkj2002]

Regarding your point as I understand it, we would choose the same weight I believe. I want the first number as high as the climate allows. I want the second number at 30 for the everyday driver and 40 for heavy duty driving. Am I close?

Pretty damn close.

 

[Redbone]

Yeah you can thank CAFE for 5W-20. Better MPG at the detriment of engine life...real smart Washington/Sacramento. I sure hope all of you with 07 KJs and KKs aren't using 5W-20...

0W-30 has nothing to do with tree huggers though. You can thank Mercedes, BMW and VW for that. 0W-30 is pretty much all they use in Europe.

Oh, tjkj2002, nothing personal my friend. Just a very heated debate hehe

Can we agree to disagree?

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