HOW TO: Flush/Change Coolant

Discussion in 'How To' started by BluPhant, Jan 7, 2005.

  1. HoosierJeeper

    HoosierJeeper Gold Supporter/Admin Staff Member Administrator

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    I can't see how replacing an e fan would be hard. (it's easy on the KJ, even if you have to remove the HD fan) Does your WJ have an aux mechanical fan?
     
  2. tjkj2002

    tjkj2002 Full Access Member

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    The fan relay of WJ's is located under the bumper,calls for like 2.5 hours to change it.Most just take out the R/F headlight assembly and cut a hole in the headlight support to gain access to the relay.Then it takes like 20mins to change.
     
  3. teckman02

    teckman02 Full Access Member

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    Why not just take off the headlight support pannal than cutting a hole into it, is easy to take off
     
  4. tjkj2002

    tjkj2002 Full Access Member

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    That is part of the R&I for replacing that part,but the bumper has to copme off also and no it's not a easy task(well not hard just takes alot of time).I've done so many it takes me less then 10mins to swap that relay.
     
  5. ephantmon

    ephantmon Full Access Member

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    Just did a drain/fill of the coolant on Sunday. Each of the last 3 days I have had to add more coolant to the reservoir. There are no drips underneath the jeep, and I changed the oil yesterday and there was none mixed in. Where am I losing it?
     
  6. TheBlueKJ

    TheBlueKJ Full Access Member

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    The system is getting rid of excess air in it, your not losing any
     
  7. ephantmon

    ephantmon Full Access Member

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    Yeah, it finally stabilized. Thanks for the reassurance!
     
  8. FrankTimJr

    FrankTimJr New Member

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    Sorry it took so long to report. I think the reason why our 02 Liberty was spewing coolant was because it was clogged. I purchased HOAT coolant along with the flush solution and I'm in the process of flushing out the system. It's a brown sludgy mess! But the good news is when I ran the vehicle for 10-15 minutes with the flush solution, the temp didn't go higher than it should with the heat on high. Stayed right in the middle. No leaks that I can tell and now it has to cool off so I can do a second flush with just distilled water. QUESTION: How many times do I need to flush it with water? Until it's 100% clear? Put clear water in and clear water comes out after it runs for 10-15 minutes and cools? Or is there an acceptable color/consistency of the fluid that comes out?

    Thanks for all of those who supplied me with the tips on getting this fixed, WITHOUT taking it to a shop.
     
  9. dude1116

    dude1116 Full Access Member

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    I want to replace my coolant because the level is low AND i have a feeling Valvoline did not use HOAT (Is there any way to even tell?). So I have a couple of questions:

    1) There are two places to fill coolant from, right? There's the rad cap which is on the upper passenger side of the radiator, and there's the overflow bottle, which is the big bottle at the back passenger side of the engine, correct? Where should i fill coolant from if i want the whole system drained and refilled?

    2) By just using the drain plug at the lower driver's side of the radiator, will that empty what I want emptied?

    3)The instructions say to leave the cap in place when runnimg the heat. Isn't that counter intuitive? Which cap are we talking about when bleeding the system? The overflow cap?

    4) Will it be necessary to flush the system with water again even though Valvoline did it a few months ago?

    Thanks guys!!
     
  10. TheBlueKJ

    TheBlueKJ Full Access Member

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    One sure way to check if its hoat is the color of it which is red. If its not red then its not hoat.

    Ive heard that you dont want to use the drainplug on the rad since its plastic and wont seal right. Take off the hoses and run water through the rad and block to flush it out.

    Yup that bottle in the back is the overflow. Thats where you want to top it off when your going through the bleeding process which is basically just running the engine to burp the rad and push the air into the overflow which will lower the level of coolant in the overflow so just keep filling it with hoat and distilled until it is at the fill line. Youll also want to fill the rad too before you start her up too.

    If i left anything out im sure someone will fill me in.


    Sent from my iPhone using the power of children's laughter
     
  11. dude1116

    dude1116 Full Access Member

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    Which hoses should I take off? And where should I put the garden hose when running water through the system? Sorry for so many questions. The cooling system in the KJ (and any vehicle, for that matter) is something that I've had a hard time wrapping my head completely around.

    Thank you so much!
     
  12. TheBlueKJ

    TheBlueKJ Full Access Member

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    The radiator hoses. And it's all good. You can actually look up youtube videos on how to do a proper flush
     
  13. Slackcountrysean

    Slackcountrysean New Member

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    Only able to put in 2 gal of new mix

    so yesterday I drained the old coolant, used a zerex flush solution and then flushed a with about 4 gallons of distilled water just to be safe. Then I waited till it was a little trickle of water coming out, and put in new g-05 mix (which is clear new?) but was only able to put about 2 gal in. I ran engine with overflow cap off and have now driven up the canyon to my job at the ski resort twice now and the levels have not gone down. any thoughts? just didn't drain the rest of water? open up drain cock and pour new mix in until all four gallons in? or test ph? Sorry was my first time doing a coolant flush on this jeep, thanks for any help.:patriot:
     
  14. TwoBobsKJ

    TwoBobsKJ Full Access Member

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    (welcome)

    Did you remove the lower radiator hose? That would ensure the block and the radiator would both drain most of the coolant. Also, when the Jeep is up to temp is the upper radiator hose warm/hot? If not then there's an air lock in the system somewhere.

    The system takes a total of 14 quarts so you'll need almost 2 gallons each of distilled water and Zerex G-05 (which is clear, yes.) So if you put in 2 gallons of coolant and you flushed with the distilled water and about 2 gallons stayed in the system you should have an approximate 50/50 water/coolant mix.

    Check that upper radiator hose when warm, look at the coolant level in the reservoir and report back.

    Bob
     
  15. Slackcountrysean

    Slackcountrysean New Member

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    I did not remove the lower radiator hose, I just opened the drain at the bottom drivers side of the radiator. I will check the hose when I go start my car in a couple of hours. yea i just grabbed 4 gal of the 50/50 zerex mix cause I am lazy.
     
  16. jbp-ohio

    jbp-ohio New Member

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    Ok, I just did this Saturday. I think the problem a few here are having is the thermostat. It is on the bottom of the engine. If you only open the petcock on the radiator, you aren't getting any of the antifreeeze out of the engine block (and maybe the heater core)....

    You don't have to use HOAT. You can use any low siicate antifreeze. The one thing you don't want to do is mix different types of antifreeze. Since I was changing antifreeze types, I needed to flush all of the HOAT out.

    I pulled the thermostat out and cut the spring offf of it and threw away the valve. Then I put the thermostat back in (I first tried no thermostat but it leaked to bad without the rubber gasket on the thermostat.)

    Cut out the gold colored parts, and put the silver colored body back in. That way the water can flow thru the system cold with no restrictions......

    [​IMG]

    Now there was nothing to keep the coolant in the engine. It took three water (distilled only) flushes before the water was clear. Make sure to run engine until warm and have the heater on high. Once I got good heat though the vents, I drained the water.

    Then I put in a new thermostat and refilled with Prestone extended life coolant and DISTILLED water....

    [​IMG]

    I tried to get the air out by using the vent on top of the engine where top radiator hose is...... no luck. I had to drive it a couple blocks then open the vent.....

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2014
  17. tommudd

    tommudd Moderator Staff Member Moderator

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    Ah, good luck with that Prestone in there :popcorn:
     
  18. jbp-ohio

    jbp-ohio New Member

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    Why?

    Lasted for years in my Magnum.
     
  19. eradicator006

    eradicator006 Full Access Member

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    According to prestone the extended life anti-freeze meets DaimlerChrysler MS 7170 and MS 9769.

    Frequently Asked Questions | Prestone® Canada

    I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work if you do a full flush and don't mix coolant types.

    I went with mopar anti-freeze myself. Here the mopar stuff is a few dollars cheaper than the prestone "long life". I think I paid $12.99 for a gallon of mopar and the prestone long life is $16.99.
     
  20. Road_Runna

    Road_Runna New Member

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    I would also add, that removing that reservoir tank, and flushing it with a hose, wouldn't be a bad idea. I took my reservoir tank out, flushed it, added some CLR, and kept flushing until i got rid of the clr, the CLR helped, right after flushing the CLR I found a brown reddish bean come out, which was part of the gritt /corrosion.
    DONT USE CLR ON THE ENGINE ITSELF OR THE RADIATOR, again I only used it on the reservoir tank out n away from the engine compartment.