Finnished Franky Install = Alignment!!

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604KJ

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1st noise could be a worn intermediate shaft splines or just worn CV axles.

this never being a problem before the lift, did i mess something up?

and yes disconnected the lower side. what should i do now then?
 

tjkj2002

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this never being a problem before the lift, did i mess something up?

and yes disconnected the lower side. what should i do now then?
You change the CV angles placing more stress on them and that shaft connection,it's actually pretty common of higher mileage KJ's after being lifted.


Disconnect the upper bolt,tighten lower bolt then put full weight and install the upper bolts and torque.Doing both sides at once makes it easy,just leave one side loose till you get the other side together.
 

604KJ

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604KJ

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So jack up again, swaybar, off the jacks, connect top swaybar. What if it wont go like the 1st time i tried, and will i need to align again?
 

tommudd

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Have never had one yet in all the ones I've done that wouldn't go back on.
You'll get it.
No alignment needed just from taking the sway bar links off and on
 

wheeee32

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You need to cut a notch in your front bumpstops so the grease zerk from the upper ball joint doesn't hit. Just noticed it from looking at the pictures.
 

Luke

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Just to round out your noises list ;)

The speed bump issue is most likely caused by the UCA hitting the spring when the wheel tries to drop farther than space will permit.
 

CactusJacked

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The speed bump issue is most likely caused by the UCA hitting the spring when the wheel tries to drop farther than space will permit.

But the JBA arms are supposed to help alleviate the arm to spring contact. Is anybody here using JBA arms and still having them whack the springs? I still need to replace my uppers (my stock ones hit), and want to make sure they do clear noticeably better than stock.
 

tjkj2002

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But the JBA arms are supposed to help alleviate the arm to spring contact. Is anybody here using JBA arms and still having them whack the springs? I still need to replace my uppers (my stock ones hit), and want to make sure they do clear noticeably better than stock.
To a point,the higher you go the less clearance regardless of UCA's used.If your sitting at 3" or less then yes you will have no(or very little contact),go above 3" and your going to contact a little,more so if you cut open the UCA pockets.


I had just very slight contact at full droop with 3.75" of lift and JBA's GENII UCA's,no cutting of the UCA pockets.
 

CactusJacked

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To a point,the higher you go the less clearance regardless of UCA's used.If your sitting at 3" or less then yes you will have no(or very little contact),go above 3" and your going to contact a little,more so if you cut open the UCA pockets.
I had just very slight contact at full droop with 3.75" of lift and JBA's GENII UCA's,no cutting of the UCA pockets.

Ok, so then you're referring primarily to full droop contact? How about when hitting bumps on the street, is she gonna be quiet at 3"+?
 

604KJ

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I cut the UCA pockets, dont know if i did enough as JBA says your supposed to cut out, i should go back and cut some more out you think?

Regarding that sway bar, i just want to make sure ive got this correct. I am going to raise it back up on jack stands, remove the upper sway bar bolt, loosen bottom bolt, lower to ground with wheels on, re install top bolt & torque, then torque the bottom?

I hope it all fits, and if it dosnt, what should i do?
 

Cardhu

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whatever you removed from the pockets will be more then enough.

Get your sway bar loose, Torque the bottom then the top of the endlinks with wheels on ground.
 

604KJ

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why does jba say to cut the pockets, and why are you guys saying not necessary?

I can see when i have the jeep jacked up, the arm on the front drivers is coming in contact with the pocket, shouldnt i open that up then? Would this not explain that dropping clunk im having coming of speed bumps?
 

Luke

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why does jba say to cut the pockets, and why are you guys saying not necessary?

I can see when i have the jeep jacked up, the arm on the front drivers is coming in contact with the pocket, shouldnt i open that up then? Would this not explain that dropping clunk im having coming of speed bumps?

I read the instructions and then made an informed decision (with help) to let it form it's own bumpstop. Besides it will just hasten contact with your spring ... Instead of stopping at the pocket it will stop at the spring (on full droop).
 

604KJ

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I C, that makes sense. So youre saying by giving it more room to droop, it may allow it to contact the spring.. Thats lame, so if this speed bump dropping clunking noise im talking about really is coming from that a arm contacting the pocket, will it go away eventually, and do i have to worry about the arm breaking or bending?
 

tommudd

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First thing is you have a Frankenlift
You're going to have some noise and issues until it gets broke in good. Now its a good lift, but different than what most are using with springs plus top plate etc. Its stiffer from the get go since the pucks inside preload the springs and so until you take it out twist it up good its going to be riding at the top of where what I call the safe zone is. You're going to have UCA/spring contact more than likely when going over speed bumps/ rail road tracks etc plus some contact with the UCAs / frame.After it gets broke in good, when you have some miles on and it settles in it will get better
 

tjkj2002

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I C, that makes sense. So youre saying by giving it more room to droop, it may allow it to contact the spring.. Thats lame, so if this speed bump dropping clunking noise im talking about really is coming from that a arm contacting the pocket, will it go away eventually, and do i have to worry about the arm breaking or bending?
I let my JBA UCA's self clearance the pockets and not one noise ever and never hurt the UCA's at all,didn't even scratch the paint.
 
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