Extra Lighting and BCM Burnout

[Rescu2000]

I've read that extra lighting added to the existing interior lighting can burn out the BCM. I assume that this is due to the BCM controlling the lighting for the "dim to off" feature, auto shut off if left on, etc.

I would like to add the stock light pod that I removed when I added my EVIC to the rear passenger area. I'd also like for it to be tied into the BCM's dimming features and be controlled by the doors, etc but I don't want to chance burning up the BCM.

Here's my question: Has anyone thought of using an Base, collector, emitter transistor to boost the current in this circuit? Wouldn't this take the strain off of the BCM? I was thinking I'd put this in the front light pod so that even the front lights are boosted, thus lowering the total load on the BCM to (probably) below stock. This should theoretically work and still allow for the gradual dimming of ALL the lights, and I imagine you could add more lights in the back if you wanted...

Anyone more fluent in electronics care to help with this?

Thanks,
Rescu2000

 

[Bennett]

Not sure about boosting amperage...

Anyways, I did this mod last december and haven't had any problems with my BCM.

Check out my thread:

http://www.jeepkj.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=392

Bennett

 

[Marlon_JB2]

if you go ahead and do this... do tell how you managed to mount that particular light. I can't see how... :-k

 

[Rescu2000]

Bennet,
I like your install. But you are only using one light. I'll be putting two in. That might make a difference. I'm going to take some current draw measurements using an N-P-N transistor to boost the current. I'll measure before and after. I'll post results. It'll be a couple days, as Ratshack is closed today and tommorow, unless I find a spare transistor around here. I know I have some, just finding them is the problem, haha. I'll feel more comfortable with this setup if I can keep the current at or below stock. It may also allow more lights to be added in other places. I noticed several people suggesting a relay. That would not allow for the dimming-to-off feature. All the lights would be on until the relay voltage/current dropped to the point that the relay wouldn't latch anymore, then they'd shut off. No dimming at all. It would be all on, or all off.
Thanks,
Rescu2000

 

[Bennett]

Honestly, with one light you're getting more than enough light. There isn't one dark place in my back seat. Also the bulb in the light fixure I put in is noticably a lot higher wattage bulb than the rear cargo light bulb.

I was in the same shoes as you back in december, but I just took a chance and it's working out just fine. As long as it doesn't blow the BCM right away, then you're pretty much safe.

Relay's would jitter too much when the lights are dimming and could cause a lot of EMI noise. Which in turn could mess up the BCM. So a relay wouldn't work out so well.

Bennett

 

[BluPhant]

I'm with Bennett. I havent done mine yet, but I have the same part bennett installed on his. I have the leftover lights from EVIC install too, and there's absolutely no way I can come up with to mount them The light I got kinda snaps into the headliner, where the one you removed relies on 2 plastic clips.

Plus, as others have already said, you'll want to pull as little amperage off that circuit as you can... one bulb should be plenty. Having said all that, it would be hella cool to have those 2 lights mounted over the back seat.... One option, if you could figure out a way to mount them, would be to use an entirely different circuit (seperate from the other in-cabin lights) and just run constant power to them..... switched only. Hrrm, now I'm thinking. If only there were a good way to mount them

-Blu

 

[Rescu2000]

I think I've decided, based in info from Benett's thread, that I'll just wire it up to the Evic lights. I noticed that Benett siad that he had lighting under the dash or some such. I only have the Evic lights and the cargo light. One or two more should still keep me below the current Benett is pulling. I'll still test out my Transistor theory, just in case I want to add floorboard lights.

As far as mounting it, I was thinking I'd make a plate that goes in the headliner that has two slots cut that match up with the clips. The plate would be oversized from the hole. I'll try this out and see how it works. I'll make it out of steel probably, or Lexan. I love Lexan Either way, I'll take plenty of pics and post them for a how-to.

Rescu2000

 

[Rescu2000]

One option, if you could figure out a way to mount them, would be to use an entirely different circuit (seperate from the other in-cabin lights) and just run constant power to them..... switched only.

I really don't like the separate circuit idea. I want these lights to come on when I open the door and dim-to-off when I start up, just like the other lights. That's too cool to give up... LOL

Rescu2000

 

[Bennett]

The reason I didn't pull power out of the EVIC, is because my volt meter went wacko when I tried to find a postive and negative wire. My volt meter no matter which wire I put it on registered positive voltage, so I am thinking in my head, what the heck where's the ground!! So what I ended up doing to be safe is I tapped into the lights under the dash in the passenger footwell, since those wires registered 0volts(for ground) and 12 volts for the positive.

The dimming is ultra cool too. My dad was a engineer that designed stuff like solid state electronics and he said if it's going to break it will right away. He was right, since there still going.

Bennett

 

[chaz0_man0]

Iv got 16 LEDs running on the interior lighting no problems...

 

[BluPhant]

Iv got 16 LEDs running on the interior lighting no problems...

pics2.gif

 

[Rescu2000]

Bennet,
I looked at the light I have. These are the ones that came out of the EVIC I ordered. (00 GC). Anyway, it looks like the wires running to the switch are grounds. The Yellow coming out of the switch (and running to the center of the plug) is PROBABLY a sensing wire that tells the BCM that the light is on? (Just a guess) The wire running straight to the light looks to be a 12v +. I'll double check all of this on my EVIC tommorow with a meter.
Rescu2000

 

[chaz0_man0]

Iv got 16 LEDs running on the interior lighting no problems...

pics2.gif

8 LEDs of puddle lights and 8 LEDs for interior foot lighting..

Pics later..

 

[Bennett]

Bennet,
I looked at the light I have. These are the ones that came out of the EVIC I ordered. (00 GC). Anyway, it looks like the wires running to the switch are grounds. The Yellow coming out of the switch (and running to the center of the plug) is PROBABLY a sensing wire that tells the BCM that the light is on? (Just a guess) The wire running straight to the light looks to be a 12v +. I'll double check all of this on my EVIC tommorow with a meter.
Rescu2000

Yea, basically if you leave one of the dome lights on by manually pushing them on. The computer will automatically turn it off. So the computer does know if they are on or off.

Bennett

 

[Rescu2000]

I thought it would. But it could do that through current detection in the BCM and not need the wire. That's how I'd engineer it anyway. That brings up a point though. If you turn it on manually and the computer shuts it off, does it reverse the switch?

Think of it as a light switch. Up is on and down is off. You turn it on, and the computer turns it off. BUT I don't think the computer will "flip the switch". It also cant reverse polarity of the wires to the harness, cause it feeds both lights. The yellow wire has to do something to the switch. It has to change it so that Up is OFF now and down is ON, or something like that. This has to happen, because if you hit the light again (once) after the BCM shuts it off, it comes back on. Pretty neat. Also, in this case it would have to know which individual light was on so current sensing at the BCM wouldn't work. So back to the yellow wire, I wonder what it does. Does it flip the switch, reverse polarity in it, current sense, or a combo of the above. Hmmm... :-s

Rescu2000