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NJallDAY

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I should have the money i need for a lift tomorrow. I was planning on getting the iron man lift and use top plates clevis and isos to squeeze a little extra out. Or should i go the same rout but instead get the ome with the 123l rear shocks? Decisions decisions..... what do you guys think?
 

TwoBobsKJ

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I personally have the OME/Bilstein setup and I'm really pleased with it. It's a lift that's a good combination of a vastly improved on-road ride with lift and strength for off-road fun.

That said, I trust what TomMudd says when he describes the Ironman as a very good riding spring/shock system. It won't give you a true 4 inches of lift but it will get you to that 2.5 to 2.75 inch range. Don't know that Tom took it off-road but I can't imagine that his rig would take it easy on the Ironman springs & shocks.

Tough choice - but I don't think you'll go wrong either way.

Bob
 

NJallDAY

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Ome it is lol. correct me if im wrong but with a 1/4" top plate 3 ring clevis and 2 rear isos per side i should be pushing the 3" mark And thats about all i can get right?
 

tommudd

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Ome it is lol. correct me if im wrong but with a 1/4" top plate 3 ring clevis and 2 rear isos per side i should be pushing the 3" mark And thats about all i can get right?

With 1/4 inch top plate and 3/8 inch clevis you'll be at 3.50 when settled in, 3.75 when first installed. So should measure 22.75 first installed, 22.5 after settling in
 

NJallDAY

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With 1/4 inch top plate and 3/8 inch clevis you'll be at 3.50 when settled in, 3.75 when first installed. So should measure 22.75 first installed, 22.5 after settling in

Thats perfect, exactly what im looking for. I know you fitted the iron man to your rig i didnt see any lift amounts in the pages and pages of posts( your like a living legend here mr mudd lol) but could you get the same gains out of the iron man with the additional goodies? Or is it topped out at the advertised 1.50?
 

NJallDAY

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So i sold my car and figured i would save some green backs by going with the iron man buuuuut the rear springs are back ordered till mid nov and a week ago it said they would be available on oct 15 so who knows. Can i mix and match to save a little bit or Should i just keep it all the same and shell out for a complete ome
 

hectikart

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So i sold my car and figured i would save some green backs by going with the iron man buuuuut the rear springs are back ordered till mid nov and a week ago it said they would be available on oct 15 so who knows. Can i mix and match to save a little bit or Should i just keep it all the same and shell out for a complete ome

man that *****...I got all the Ironman stuff about 2 weeks ago, getting it installed tomorrow/Friday. Glad I bought it ahead of time since the free shipping ends soon.
 

NJallDAY

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man that *****...I got all the Ironman stuff about 2 weeks ago, getting it installed tomorrow/Friday. Glad I bought it ahead of time since the free shipping ends soon.
I wasnt to worried about the shipping If i order now hes going to honor the free shipping. i was just kinda itching to get it ordered so i can throw it on before it gets to cold. Im guna give jba a call today and see what im lookin at for an ome kit and 1/4 top plates and isos shipped. I really dont want to wait till nov to get everything. Would i have any problems if i ordered the ome948 springs for the rear with the rest of the ironman kit? Im not sure if they will work well with each other
 
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NJallDAY

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I just called jba and spoke with marlin. Ordered everything up i need, ironman front and rear shocks, iron man front spring, ome948 rear springs, a set of 1/4" top plates, 2 rear iso's and teraflex bumps. He said i should have everything by friday. Needles to say im freakin pumped! By the way @tommudd- marlin says hey and he had fun at the jeep show in butler. One last question though. Any other special tools i need besides a sprin compressor? It looks like rain here this weekend so im guna see if any friends want to let me use their garage for the day.
 

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If the suspension has never been apart ... ya .. If I was doing it over again I would pick up spare bolts and nuts. 2 striped and one snapped off during my installation. A right angle drill or a regular drill that is very short is essential. My cordless would not fit in the space available to drill holes in the rear spring pad.

Good Luck!
 

NJallDAY

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If the suspension has never been apart ... ya .. If I was doing it over again I would pick up spare bolts and nuts. 2 striped and one snapped off during my installation. A right angle drill or a regular drill that is very short is essential. My cordless would not fit in the space available to drill holes in the rear spring pad.

Good Luck!

Thanks my buddy is a township mechanic so were guna do it in the shop. Should make everything a whole lot easier lol
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Be REALLY careful with the spring compressor. Many find that the teeth of the compressor get bound in the coils and they aren't able to tighten the coil down enough to assemble the shock. Others have had the (censored) things let loose and do SERIOUS bodily harm :freak3:

You have to go to a shop for the alignment as soon as everything is put together anyway - for your safety have that shop assemble the front shocks w/ the springs on their equipment. Your buddy drops off the old front assemblies with the new springs at the shop, comes back and you get started on the rear. By the time you get done with the rear the fronts will be finished, buy him pizza and pick up the new coils/shocks, install them then go back to the shop for the alignment. Cost me all of $25 after I promised I'd be back for the alignment and a set of tires. Best 25 GW's I ever spent.

I have no doubt you and your buddy are handy and very capable. It's just that we want to see pics of you wheeling your lifted Libby instead of hearing about you getting injured...

Bob
 

tommudd

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If the suspension has never been apart ... ya .. If I was doing it over again I would pick up spare bolts and nuts. 2 striped and one snapped off during my installation. A right angle drill or a regular drill that is very short is essential. My cordless would not fit in the space available to drill holes in the rear spring pad.

Good Luck!

Ddi you have a lot of rust or what?
have never stripped/broken/bent or mangled one during a lift
:shrug:
 

Luke

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Only 8 years worth ... :happy175: .. the drivers side (lower shock bolt) came off fine (I clean all exposed threads before backing off the nut) but the passenger side bolt, you can see the rust goes right inside the nut about half way around.

Correction .. only one nut stripped, lower clevis nut, very rusted but at least it came off, inner threads were toast though.

The rust was so bad I had to use a utility blade to scrape it out of the exposed threads ... I'm glad they use sand on the roads where I live now.


Oh and let's not hold me to your standards Rev Mudd .. I'm just an old newb ... :D
 
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NJallDAY

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Im not to worried about it. Like i said, me and my friend will be installing the lift in a fully equipped shop. Lift, air tools, literally everything we would need including hardware incase something whould snap strip bend. Should be a fairly text book install. I pretty pumped to get everything on and take it to get an alignment ! Ill take some pics and post my progress.
 

tommudd

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Only 8 years worth ... :happy175: .. the drivers side (lower shock bolt) came off fine (I clean all exposed threads before backing off the nut) but the passenger side bolt, you can see the rust goes right inside the nut about half way around.

Correction .. only one nut stripped, lower clevis nut, very rusted but at least it came off, inner threads were toast though.

The rust was so bad I had to use a utility blade to scrape it out of the exposed threads ... I'm glad they use sand on the roads where I live now.


Oh and let's not hold me to your standards Rev Mudd .. I'm just an old newb ... :D

We've done some here that had so much rust that at some point I was afraid thats all that was holding them together. :happy175: Seems like ones from the Northeast part of Ohio are the worst over this way always tons of rust that you have to work through
 

Luke

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We've done some here that had so much rust that at some point I was afraid thats all that was holding them together. :happy175: Seems like ones from the Northeast part of Ohio are the worst over this way always tons of rust that you have to work through

It's just the price we pay for our wonderful winters ... The first 3 years of her life were spent in Ottawa as a lease vehicle ... probably never had the undercarriage washed once! Now she lives a pampered life :D

P.S. In case you didn't see my post in Random Thoughts ... Thanks for your direct and indirect help Tom. :D
 

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