ABS ESP/BAS traction control light after new hub bearing install

[CorDog009]

So I got around to doing one of the front lower ball joints, and while I had it torn apart, I put a new hub bearing assembly in since they have 166k miles on them. Now the ABS, ESP/BAS and traction control lights are on after driving to the store. Also when I got back, my wife noticed the brake lights were staying on. I hit the pedal and they went off. So I disconnected the battery and waited 30 mins, lights still on. Drove about a 1/2 mile at up to 50 mph and lights still on. Hooked old hub assembly back up to see if the new one was defective, lights still on. I'm stumped because everything was fine before the new hub assembly went in. I've read it could be wheel speed sensors, clock spring, steering angle sensor, etc. My wifi scanner and apps on my phone didn't pull up any related codes, but it's not an in-depth scan tool either. I wonder if installing the other new hub bearing assembly will correct the issue..my back started acting up and I decided to just do the one side this weekend.

 

[HoosierJeeper]

My KJ doesn't have ABS but I think that's an issue with the wheel speed sensor and the bearing. There's been a few threads on here about it.
Here's one:
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/abs-esp-time-57188/

What brand hub and sensor did you use? Seems like the air gap can play games.

 

[CorDog009]

My KJ doesn't have ABS but I think that's an issue with the wheel speed sensor and the bearing. There's been a few threads on here about it.
Here's one:
http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/f196/abs-esp-time-57188/

What brand hub and sensor did you use? Seems like the air gap can play games.

WJB was the brand. It was the most popular of the economy section on RockAuto.com. I figured since it was a sealed assembly the air gap would have been set correctly, but who knows.

 

[uss2defiant]

sounds like you have another new hub.
Do you see the same issues w/ the other new one plugged in?

Usually, you should disconnect the battery before installing anything just as a precaution.

Also I would check the connection on the ABS module, just in case and the fuses.

I have ABS but no ESP since I have an early KJ.

I used Timken hubs.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Your wife scanner likely just pulls engine codes. I'm willing to bet you have an ABS related code stored in there somewhere. I take it your speedometer still works by you saying 50mph, is your mileage still going up?
I'd stop somewhere that can pull your ABS codes for you, but in my opinion, it's as good a time as any to get a code reader with ABS function..

How positive are you that you didn't get the hub sides mixed up? I did it the first time I replaced them, only way I was able to tell the difference was that one of the sides(I believe the drivers side IIRC) has a wire loom around the beginning portion of the wheel speed sensor. The difference side to side is that the wheel speed sensors will be facing the wrong direction if they're on the wrong sides

 

[CorDog009]

sounds like you have another new hub.
Do you see the same issues w/ the other new one plugged in?

Usually, you should disconnect the battery before installing anything just as a precaution.

Also I would check the connection on the ABS module, just in case and the fuses.

I have ABS but no ESP since I have an early KJ.

I used Timken hubs.

I checked the fuses and all was fine. Usually if something simple like this where a power wire can't get grounded to anything I don't disconnect the battery. I may try to slave the other new hub into the drivers side after work and see if that changes anything.

 

[CorDog009]

Your wife scanner likely just pulls engine codes. I'm willing to bet you have an ABS related code stored in there somewhere. I take it your speedometer still works by you saying 50mph, is your mileage still going up?
I'd stop somewhere that can pull your ABS codes for you, but in my opinion, it's as good a time as any to get a code reader with ABS function..

How positive are you that you didn't get the hub sides mixed up? I did it the first time I replaced them, only way I was able to tell the difference was that one of the sides(I believe the drivers side IIRC) has a wire loom around the beginning portion of the wheel speed sensor. The difference side to side is that the wheel speed sensors will be facing the wrong direction if they're on the wrong sides

I made sure I looked at the part numbers on the boxes and cross referenced them with the website to get right/left side so I wouldn't put them on the wrong side. If they were the same part # then I wouldn't have bothered. The drivers side did have loom in the places it'd rub. Speedo still works, no cruise control. That's the main issue because it's my wife's vehicle. I may have to take it somewhere to get abs codes pulled if I can't troubleshoot some other components. Or borrow one from someone locally since I probably won't ever need one again.

 

[CorDog009]

What kind of reading should I look for on the vehicle side of the harness going to the wheel speed sensor?

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Mine was 11.67v IIRC. You can find my thread of when I went through this kinda issue by searching abs/speedometer issue

 

[CorDog009]

I had about 12.5v at the plug. Code shows C100A left front wheel speed sensor circuit. I tried to clear it but it shows it as an active code and the scanner won't clear it. I need to jack the wheel up and see what reading I get out of the sensor wire while rotating the wheel. One of my wife's friends suggested swapping the sensor out of the old hub assembly into the new one, then drive over 20mph and under 45 or so for at least a mile, then stop and turn the ignition off, then restart it and it might clear up.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Swapping them out is what I would do. Just be careful with them or you could damage the old one as well. Pb blast the screw on the old hub before trying to take it out as well.. they have a tendency of getting stuck, and that would only add to your headache. If that doesn't work, you can get some replacement WSS for decently cheap.
Also when taking the reading from the WSS, make sure you have your dvom on the right setting as I believe it's one of the few things on the car that will be using alternating current.

 

[tjkj2002]

Just be aware some aftermarket wheel bearings have slightly different ABS sensors that are not interchangeable with the OEM bearings,mostly the cheap bearings.

I have run into this problem alot at work.

 

[CorDog009]

Just be aware some aftermarket wheel bearings have slightly different ABS sensors that are not interchangeable with the OEM bearings,mostly the cheap bearings.

I have run into this problem alot at work.

I was thinking that today, got home and swapped the old sensor into the new bearing, hadn't made it out of the driveway and the lights went off. Drove a couple of miles and all good so far.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Awesome! Glad you got your problem sorted out!

 

[CorDog009]

Awesome! Glad you got your problem sorted out!

Thanks. I figured I was over complicating things by thinking of all the different reasons it'd be acting up, luckily it was one of the simplest solutions.

 

[grasshopperkj]

I am having a similar problem, except that I didn't replace the hub or anything like that. I inherited the issue with the Jeep, 06' 4x4 Liberty Sport. I just have ESP/BAS and Traction Control lights on, no ABS light, did for a little while until I replaced the left rear WSS. ABS stopped engaging and light went out after that, still have other lights though. Been driving it all over town with no issues while driving. Would like to get those pesky codes/lights cleared out though.

 

[GunnerSchenck]

Have you has it scanned to see what's codes it throws?

 

[Billwill]

ESP/BAS Traction control lamps could be the clock spring.
To replace, disconnect battery completely and touch the Red positive cable onto chassis for 30 minutes to discharge any capacitive charge in the system....you do not want the airbags to activate while you are working around the clock spring area.

Remove the steering wheel....you will need a small 2 jaw wheel puller...first mark the steering spline with the steering wheel so you can get the wheel back in its correct place and be carful not to damage the thread when using the wheel puller.

The new clock spring assembly comes with a white plastic shipping plug which keeps the spring in its correct home position...you remove this white shipping plug at the last moment once the new clock spring is firmly in place.

If your 2006 Sport is a CRD version there are other issues that could cause this problem!