90k (or around there) service

[offrovering]

so I am past the 90k mark, I knew it needed some service, I've just been keeping an eye on things. I don't drive it daily, my wife does.

I took it out and got dirty and worked it pretty hard. Don't think I broke anything, just some new scratches It isn't running all that smoothly though, woops

Anyhow, how difficult is the 90k service?

- plugs, fairly easy from what I am reading on here? never done them on this
- PVC, simple unplug and replace?
- Belt, looks easy enough, tensioner pulley isn't too fragile right?
- t-case and diff's, did those at 65k
- coolant, should I just drain and refill, or not even worry about it now?
- oil, always do that
- air filter, did that and found a dead mouse in the box haha
- ****** fluid, seems fairly easy on this, but with snow on the ground I have to wait

I am a home mechanic, I learn as I go, and read a lot before, most of this is dummy proof right?

 

[offrovering]

oh yea, follow up on my other post about my oil being milky, it still is, although I still dont have loss of coolant or any other typical signs of gasket issues, so I am ignoring it until further notice

 

[tjkj2002]

so I am past the 90k mark, I knew it needed some service, I've just been keeping an eye on things. I don't drive it daily, my wife does.

I took it out and got dirty and worked it pretty hard. Don't think I broke anything, just some new scratches It isn't running all that smoothly though, woops

Anyhow, how difficult is the 90k service?

- plugs, fairly easy from what I am reading on here? never done them on this
- PVC, simple unplug and replace?
- Belt, looks easy enough, tensioner pulley isn't too fragile right?
- t-case and diff's, did those at 65k
- coolant, should I just drain and refill, or not even worry about it now?
- oil, always do that
- air filter, did that and found a dead mouse in the box haha
- ****** fluid, seems fairly easy on this, but with snow on the ground I have to wait

I am a home mechanic, I learn as I go, and read a lot before, most of this is dummy proof right?

Plugs should be changed evry 30,000 miles,my OEM NGK's where totally toast after 27,000 miles,it takes about 20 min to change them.The PVC valve is a 5 min job and only costs about $5 from Napa.Coolant should be changed(only good for 5 years OR 100,000 miles) or it starts becoming corrosive and not a bad idea to change the lower/upper hoses and thermastat.The t-case should be changed at least every 30,000 miles,and the F/R diffs at every 12,000 miles.

As far as your oil being milky you have got a leak somewhere and should be found,water or anti-freeze destroy's the engine bearings which willl lead to major engine failure.All aftermarket warrenty compainies won't touch,less pay for,any engine that fails due to a coolant leak.Just remember just because your not loosing coolant doesn't mean it's not leaking,a bad head gasket,cracked head,or cracked block can cause oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil and should be fixed ASAP or might as well start looking for a new or used engine.

 

[tjkj2002]

ah, 90k miles is like 135.000km? Check the engine drive belt. ( the one that drives the camshafts )

Not a concern with the 3.7,it uses 3 timing chains,no belts.The belts are left for the 4 ****** gasser and CRD.

 

[offrovering]

As far as your oil being milky you have got a leak somewhere and should be found,water or anti-freeze destroy's the engine bearings which willl lead to major engine failure.All aftermarket warrenty compainies won't touch,less pay for,any engine that fails due to a coolant leak.Just remember just because your not loosing coolant doesn't mean it's not leaking,a bad head gasket,cracked head,or cracked block can cause oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil and should be fixed ASAP or might as well start looking for a new or used engine.

but my coolant is not discolored, which would mean it is not contaminated, right? So if I am not getting coolant in oil, or oil in coolant, where else and I getting a leak? I am hardly even burning oil, and coolant has never been added in over 90k don't have excess exhaust, other than when cold. I am really thinking it is just cold temp, and probably sludged engine, I dont know?

I dont have a warranty on it anyhow

what is the gap on plugs, should I just go with cheap champion platinums at .40 gap?

 

[tjkj2002]

what is the gap on plugs, should I just go with cheap champion platinums at .40 gap?

Your right about being cheap cause you'll need to change those every 1000 miles or so.Get some Autolite double platinums or some Bosch single platinums.


As far as your oil you should really get a diagnosis ASAP,it could be a number of things.Cold weather and/or sludge is not a factor for milky looking oil.And if you have that much sludge in your engine you have some major problems coming your way also.Hope you aren't using penzoil,might as well fill your crankcase with some candles.Also the coolant may/maynot change color if contaminated with oil,remember water and oil do not mix.

 

[JeepJeepster]

Hope you aren't using penzoil,might as well fill your crankcase with some candles.Also the coolant may/maynot change color if contaminated with oil,remember water and oil do not mix.

Hahaha, good one.

You should really get an oil analysis test done. The sampling kit is free and the test is only $22.
http://www.blackstone-labs.com/gas_engines.html

 

[cdh1125]

but my coolant is not discolored, which would mean it is not contaminated, right? So if I am not getting coolant in oil, or oil in coolant, where else and I getting a leak? I am hardly even burning oil, and coolant has never been added in over 90k don't have excess exhaust, other than when cold. I am really thinking it is just cold temp, and probably sludged engine, I dont know?

I dont have a warranty on it anyhow

what is the gap on plugs, should I just go with cheap champion platinums at .40 gap?

In my experiences with blown headgaskets on the oil was discolored and not the antifreeze. I personally wouldnt ignore milky oil even if I were rolling in money, but do as you wish.

 

[Ken]

why do the plugs last only 30,000 in a Liberty when other vehicles have plugs last 100,000 ?????
I have a 05 4 ****** gasser Liberty

 

[offrovering]

no penzoil, usually run castrol gtx in my trucks, the jeep only had castrol on this last change though

I will have the oil tested, thanks for the link.

I will get some autolites, although I cant imagine the life on champions being that low, I run on another truck and they are better than bosch, even on a full bosch engine

thanks for the help, I will see how all of this goes

 

[tjkj2002]

why do the plugs last only 30,000 in a Liberty when other vehicles have plugs last 100,000 ?????
I have a 05 4 ****** gasser Liberty

The OEM plugs are not platinum plugs and I have never seen a plug besides Denso Iridiums last close to 100,000 miles.

 

[Atrus]

a) leaving plugs in until 100k miles is just asking for them to be seized to the head. I've seen it. At least crack them loose a couple of times within then.
b) I don't trust even platinums to 100k miles. They sure looked dumpy in my last care well before 100k.
c) I've seen no benefit to platinums in the past. I'll probably core with some regular old Autolites when it's time and change them every 30k or so.

 

[JeepJeepster]

Yea, waiting that long to change out the plugs is asking for problems. Some of my plugs were really tight and I just had 28k.

At least take them out and put some anti-seize on them.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[cdh1125]

what are these 100,000 mile spark plugs made from? Pixie dust?

 

[tjkj2002]

what are these 100,000 mile spark plugs made from? Pixie dust?

Platinum or Iridium(being the best).

 

[tommudd]

Dont know why anyone would not change plugs every 30,000 or so, they are cheap, easy to do and just makes no sense in running them for 100,000 miles even if the mfg. says you can, they are idiots anyways!

 

[Dave]

That pic jeepster put up shows you why you need plug changes. You will notice the electrodes worn down so the gap is off and you're not getting as good a spark as with a proper gap. You can get a new set for around $30 or so as was said and you will get a proper fuel burn and a little better gas mileage maby.

Do what jeepster says and put a little anti-seze on the threads of the new ones when you put them in. Makes life easier for the next plug change.

All vehicle Mfg say plugs are good for 100,000 miles. Yea, then try to get them out. Not me.

Dave

 

[offrovering]

Ok couple more questions... Just picked up some autolite platinums. I got anti seize and dielectric grease. What is the difference and do I need both? I've only ever used anti seize.

Also, advanced auto had a dayco belt, anyone have experience or should I be getting mopar belt for twice as much?

 

[matthewheld]

Anti-seize on the spark plug threads, and dielectric grease on the top conductor of the plug.

Also, I also did my 90,000 miles service. First thing I did was flush the radiator with the Mopar stuff. It comes with an additive to the coolant, also Mopar. I drained the coolant, filled with distilled water, ran and drained again. Filled with distilled water and radiator flush then drove to the store for more distilled water, in order to warm the engine and circulate the flush (says 15 minutes I think). Then I released the pressure in the system, and opened the draincock and ran the engine while draining and used tap water to flush the system again. I finally flushed the system with several gallons of distilled water, and with the engine running, added antifreeze until the water draining turned color. I then closed the draincock and added the rest of the antifreeze.

This system had probably never been flushed, which I consider a bad idea. Coolant does not last 5 years/100,000 miles. Sure, it raises/lowers the boiling/freezing point of the water. But antifreeze also inhibits corrosion, and the inhibitors are used up during time. Do not use the same coolant for 5 years/100,000 miles. Not for the reasonable price of flushing.

As well as the spark plugs. Spark plugs don't last 100,000 miles. They may still work, but not nearly as efficiently as new plugs. And you'll get better mileage. For the price of 6 plugs every 30,000 or so, the fuel economy gained will justify the cost. Heck, just looking at a plug every so often tells you quite a bit about engine performance. And for that matter, spark plugs do not always hold their gap. And gap effects performance.

I see people spend hundreds or more on a tuned exhaust system under the guise of performance, but never cover their 'bases' of engine tuning. Air filter, spark plugs, fluids, tire pressure.

Anyways, that's my two cents.

 

[offrovering]

I tested my coolant, I think I need to do a flush on that, I will look into the Mopar stuff as mentioned.

The belt, after examining, doesn't look bad, I doubt I will do that.

I am pretty worried about getting the plugs out, I have only owned it for 30-40k and I am not sure when they were done. Now with all these pics and statements, I am sure mine will be corroded and stuck. PB Blaster to loosen?