3.7 oil crud probelm

[Conundrum2006]

For the record, you can use a 3.7 any Chrysler product from model year 2005 and later - they all use the NGC computer so you would not have to make any changes to the cam sprocket or crank reluctor ring to match the computer. So if you end up swapping motors you have plenty of options. If the engine is from a different model than your Commander you may need to swap out things like the intake and exhaust manifolds, maybe the oil pan, etc. Your accessories like AC, power steering pump, etc. will just bolt up to the new block.

Personally I'd keep trying to cleanse the engine using M38/Bob's kerosene & oil brew to either clean it up or blow it up - harsh but dems da facts. The oil pickup and screen are not easy to replace just by dropping the pan; I'm not familiar with the suspension/frame setup on the Commander but it may be tough to get the oil pan off. If you can get it off with the engine in the Jeep you'll need to remove the windage tray/pan gasket and to remove the pickup from the oil pump. This is what it looks like:

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It's not totally apples-to-apples since you have a Commander but this thread should give you some guidance if you end up swapping out your engine.

Bob

If I can't get that pick up tube out there is almost no point in dropping the pan.

About the motors so a 3.7 from a 2007 2008 would work? I've found a few not to far away that claim to be low mileage. Swapping everything block to block wouldn't be a problem. But I was under the impression it was limited to 2005-2006

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

If I can't get that pick up tube out there is almost no point in dropping the pan.

About the motors so a 3.7 from a 2007 2008 would work? I've found a few not to far away that claim to be low mileage. Swapping everything block to block wouldn't be a problem. But I was under the impression it was limited to 2005-2006

All the 3.7 blocks from 2005 and on use the same computer so the internal timing rings are the same. There isn't anything different about them as far as connecting components from your engine are concerned; there were small compression ratio changes and improvements in oil galleys (imagine that!) but nothing that would prevent you from swapping in a block from a Dodge Dakota, Mitsubishi, Jeep, etc.

I swapped in a very low mileage 3.7 from a 2007 Dodge Dakota; yes I had to change the timing rings but everything from my old engine bolted right up to the Dakota engine. Only external difference is the '07 has plastic valve covers and my original '03 had stamped steel valve covers. The interchange lists said I could only swap an engine from an '03 or '04 Liberty. I proved them wrong arty52:

Bob

 

[Conundrum2006]

All the 3.7 blocks from 2005 and on use the same computer so the internal timing rings are the same. There isn't anything different about them as far as connecting components from your engine are concerned; there were small compression ratio changes and improvements in oil galleys (imagine that!) but nothing that would prevent you from swapping in a block from a Dodge Dakota, Mitsubishi, Jeep, etc.

I swapped in a very low mileage 3.7 from a 2007 Dodge Dakota; yes I had to change the timing rings but everything from my old engine bolted right up to the Dakota engine. Only external difference is the '07 has plastic valve covers and my original '03 had stamped steel valve covers. The interchange lists said I could only swap an engine from an '03 or '04 Liberty. I proved them wrong arty52:

Bob

How new is the cut off? I'm working with an 2006, looking up different engines I see 2007 up have EGRs, I'm assuming it'd be on the intake or closable port on the cylinder head.
Found a 2012 with low mileage that is supposed to be interchangeable with 09.
The cylinder heads show interchange 05 up RH, 07-up LH w/EGR,

If it's work it'd be a great plan B, maybe a good spare just in case because low mileage used are going to be harder and harder to find .

 

[ltd02]

I think mx3_ryder has a 2012 in his 2002. Maybe he'll chime in as to any issues.

 

[robert.janowski]

Find a shop that uses BG products. Have them run the bg flush through it. A lot of new car dealer us this stuff. It will completely dissolve what's inside. They can even do a new oil flush after the flush to push out all the old oil with new oil with out starting the motor.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Conundrum2006]

I think mx3_ryder has a 2012 in his 2002. Maybe he'll chime in as to any issues.

Cool. I'd appreciate it if he could confirm it'd work. I'm almost certain will from the 2007 to 2002 swap thread and looking at the part interchange.

Cylinder head 05 up RH, 07-up LH w/EGR
Crankshaft (mopar 53020959AB) 2004-2012
Camshaft 2002-2012
Timing cover gaskets 2002-2012
Valve cover gasket 2005-2012
Intake Gasket 2002-2012
Oil Pan gasket(MOPAR 53021001AB) 2002-2012
oil pump screen 2002-2013

EDIT
Small Block (Mopar 5174604AC )2004-2008
Small Block (Mopar RL049272AA ) 2009-2012

A lot of the time gear and chain stuff says to 2010-2011 on rock auto I'm not certain they are correct because if a motor for a 2009 will swap 2012 it should be the same.


Almost certain the reluctor ring would be the same. One place on ebay said liberty 2007-2012, is the mopar crank comes with the ring as it looks like it does then it has to be 2004-2012 interchange.

 

[Conundrum2006]

Find a shop that uses BG products. Have them run the bg flush through it. A lot of new car dealer us this stuff. It will completely dissolve what's inside. They can even do a new oil flush after the flush to push out all the old oil with new oil with out starting the motor.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

Thanks! not a bad idea. I know of a shop that has a good rep which does bg. My problem is the Jeep only goes so far before the filter clogs. Or just keeping the rpm up will do it as well.

 

[robert.janowski]

Thanks! not a bad idea. I know of a shop that has a good rep which does bg. My problem is the Jeep only goes so far before the filter clogs. Or just keeping the rpm up will do it as well.

See if they can make a house call. Or hate to say it. But a tow truck is cheeper than a motor.

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[Conundrum2006]

See if they can make a house call. Or hate to say it. But a tow truck is cheeper than a motor.

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From what I've read the shops who use the BG flush should have a idiot/fool proof pump, which pumps the fluids in and out also filtering the detritus out, that's our problem at the moment. it's a good idea. I'm not sure what I'll end up doing but you're right about the tow truck.

 

[TwoBobsKJ]

Any 3.7 from 2005 and later will have the same cam sprocket and crankshaft reluctor ring. Itd02 is right - mx3_ryder put a 2012 in his and it worked great. Nothing needed to be modified. When I did mine I knew that at least up to a '10 would work in my '03 with the timing ring swap - he advanced it by two model years

It's possible you may need an EGR blocking plate if you don't have an EGR valve on yours. You can buy an EGR blocking plate from engine_guru.com; it's just a 1/4" piece of steel plate that bolts on the EGR return.

I'm pretty sure the interchange differences you're seeing are the oil journal changes Chrysler made over the years to improve oil flow and eliminate the sludge problems the early versions of these engines were subject to. Any reman or rebuild engine you'd buy will have the same improvements made; they typically use the latest cranks and camshafts and the engines run very strong. The electronics don't know the difference

I'd put a reserve on that 2012 if the price is right.

Bob

 

[Cpt Marvel]

Were it mine; I'd drain pan, install a cheap filter. Add one gallon kerosene + one quart of oil. Start. Run at idle for two minutes, change to another cheap filter. Run an additional 2-5 minutes, then drain. fill with cheap oil and another economy filter, drive around block, then drain and refill with preferred oil and filter.

Kerosene flushes have been working for years if done properly.

Bob

Funny. I was gonna say: what granpa would do was drain the earl, fill it wit kerosene, and I mean FILL IT, disconnect the coil and crank it for a bit. Let it sit for a day or two. Drain. Fill with cheap earl. Crank let set. Then do two more earl changes. He had a truck he called Earl, cause used so much. And a boat motor named Topull. Cause it took two pulls on the rope to start. Old people are so cool.

 

[M38 Bob]

Cap, you're 55. I'm only 60, FYVM!:yourself:

:icon_lol:

Bob

Just kidding.

 

[Hockeygoon]

If they were changing the oil every 4-5K miles it still shouldn't look like that. My fear is that after you go through a lot of effort to get the sludge and gunk cleaned out of the system after a year of driving and "normal" oil changes you'll be back to where you are. I am guessing a seeping head gasket that will gradually get worse.

 

[Conundrum2006]

If they were changing the oil every 4-5K miles it still shouldn't look like that. My fear is that after you go through a lot of effort to get the sludge and gunk cleaned out of the system after a year of driving and "normal" oil changes you'll be back to where you are. I am guessing a seeping head gasket that will gradually get worse.

It could be (BHG) I haven't found proof of it yet. But I also don't know that they did the oil as regular as they claimed the car fax only showed the last two years repairs because the napa garage was added to the number of places that report repair data and it was closer to the 5k mark. Ultimately hight mileage is hight mileage.

The way I'm looking at this is I'm stuck with a unhealthy motor (either oil neglect, design or BHG)if I can get it back to usable it's a win. Even if it's temporary. I hope not, rather have it get it full life and use but if I can't redeem it I'll replace it.

 

[Conundrum2006]

Any 3.7 from 2005 and later will have the same cam sprocket and crankshaft reluctor ring. Itd02 is right - mx3_ryder put a 2012 in his and it worked great. Nothing needed to be modified. When I did mine I knew that at least up to a '10 would work in my '03 with the timing ring swap - he advanced it by two model years

It's possible you may need an EGR blocking plate if you don't have an EGR valve on yours. You can buy an EGR blocking plate from engine_guru.com; it's just a 1/4" piece of steel plate that bolts on the EGR return.

I'm pretty sure the interchange differences you're seeing are the oil journal changes Chrysler made over the years to improve oil flow and eliminate the sludge problems the early versions of these engines were subject to. Any reman or rebuild engine you'd buy will have the same improvements made; they typically use the latest cranks and camshafts and the engines run very strong. The electronics don't know the difference

I'd put a reserve on that 2012 if the price is right.

Bob

Thanks!
I was almost certain when the crankshaft and heads were the same.. I didn't list the axillary parts that were the same like power steering, alternator, usually means all the brackets and mounting points are the same as well.

I will be talking with the place near by with the motor, there are few farther away but slightly better mileage that could be worth a try if we can't make an arrangement. Plenty of the 10-12 years with low mileage out there.

I know owner of the place that has it but not enough to come to him for a deal, sadly the countermen I used to know there moved on.

 

[mx3_ryder]

I indeed swapped in a 2012 engine with no problems.
As far as egr goes if you don't have it you really don't need a block off plate because you'll be using your intake and exhaust manifolds from your commander.
I fabbed up a block off plate but was only to sort of finish things off and wasn't needed.

 

[Conundrum2006]

I indeed swapped in a 2012 engine with no problems.
As far as egr goes if you don't have it you really don't need a block off plate because you'll be using your intake and exhaust manifolds from your commander.
I fabbed up a block off plate but was only to sort of finish things off and wasn't needed.

Thanks! I appreciate you confirming this! :happy160:

I wasn't sure how the EGR was set up but I'm glad to know it's just about irrelevant.


I did get a deal on the motor that was local, it's 30k out of a very clean 2012 Liberty ( looked at it), got a deposit on it right now, have a feeling we'll be needing it. Might just want to pick it up as a spare for down the road anyway.

But I'm going to try something to clean the current motor if I can but it feels better having a backup plan.

 

[mx3_ryder]

I would just swap out that old gunky engine for the new one right away. You'll never get that stuff properly cleaned out without rebuilding it. I can only imagine what the bottom of the pan and pickup screen look like. Stop spending money on oil treatments, filters etc. and put that towards your new engine. You'll instantly get an increase in power and mileage from the new engine. Just wait and see!! :happy160:

 

[jeepguy4276]

So a 2012 engine will bolt into an '02 without modifications and everything bolts up, even the computer works? Or am I not understanding that right?

 

[tommudd]

So a 2012 engine will bolt into an '02 without modifications and everything bolts up, even the computer works? Or am I not understanding that right?

No not quite, have some things to change, reread what TwoBobs wrote