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It was the rear universal joints on the rear shaft. I will not accept the "It does come down to a process of elimination." statement when they were right there! They were right at the rear pinion seal and didn't notice it before? They can't be that stupid right? They had to remove the rear...

Did what the dealer said and gotta tell ya, the arms taken off were no worse than the used ones that were put on they had 28,000 miles on them the wrecker said. I got tires put on too and so it went back to the dealer and had her make the supervisor drive it and what do you know he said there is...

The vibrations are coming from the rear and the Dealer said that they will go over it again if I bring it back with the rear control arms replaced and it still vibrates like that. They said it is because the rear tires are worn square with the bad bushings causing the up and down motion on the...

Front axle seals replaced and the pinion gear seal and no that was not the problem. The rear tires wore square and the rear lower control arm bushings are shot at the axle bolt-up part. Are there any bushing kits available or do you need the whole arm like the dealer said. I have pressed in...

I was able to stop home before going back on the road and wow guys the vibrations are horrendous, headache causing even. I looked under and there is no wetness from the front yoke but there is from the top of the back yoke. Also there is no lash or whatever you call it in the rear end man -...

It is getting a lot worse now vibrating at 50mph while cruising on a flat surface. As you come to a stop the clicking is getting prominent unless you put it in 4x4 then it just rumbles a bit. Chrysler cannot take it in for the warranty yet and it is the only vehicle my wife has to drive while I...

When it coasts from 50mph down it starts to get a rumble and as speed gets down to 10mph it gets more severe and more severe yet when you put the brake on. What is feels and sounds like? On the highway if you go off the road you hit the rumble strip on the side of the road? That's what is feels...

I switched to diamond fire plugs last week and wow was that expensive but what the heck. I am now getting about 187 miles from a half tank of gas with 60/40 city/highway ratio; which is up from the 168-173 I was getting when I changed them to the other platinums the first time, which was about...

They should be and I know I would only use one that fits like OEM because the universal ones are not that good.

You may be able to find some older round ones that just cover the head-lamp but you need to find a way to fasten them on. They still exist just not popular for your main head-lamps but look good on added fog lamps.

My front end in 4x4 mode whirrs a little bit and the pitch increases with speed it always did, and I did replace the fluid up there but I am not worried.

Yeah these engines heat up faster than any other one I have had, was pleased to see that I was not without heat for long.

Yeah right I don't see why it wouldn't work even with a full-time transfer case and no lighting on the dashboard. I think the only issues would be the having to be in neutral to shift into 4low because the auto transmission also has to be in neutral for the transfer case to shift into neutral...

I changed mine almost right away at about 32,000 and some odd miles on the used jeep with those double platinum plugs +2 bosch makes and are coming up on 80,000 end of warranty miles with those still in it running great that won't void the warranty will it? I get about 172 miles to a half tank...

Just tossing this out there; What exactly would happen if you just converted and didn't do anything to the electronics? If you think about it, you are just going to shift it into four wheel hi mode so what direct bearing does it have on the electronics of the vehicle? We all know old vehicles...

Yeah 4low you have to be in neutral to shift in or out but I have never had to use that. I was only speaking of regular 4x4 mode 4hi. I will just let it go it works has been working and is just a little thoomph that I can deal with. I only wanted to know if it were a precursor to some failure...

So when I shift out of 4wheel the auto-trans should be in neutral? I think that kind of defeats the whole purpose of the on-the-fly four-wheel drive system huh? If you have to put things in neutral and so on then what's the point you may as well have manual locking hubs too. It has been doing...

It physically shifts in and out with little effort and is smooth going in. What it does is stays in part-time for a little bit after when I shift out. I changed the fluid this past summer. When it does come out you can hear a little "thoomph" unless I am on the gas when it decides to shift out...

Just a quick question for the guru(s): When you go from 4x4 to 2x4 there is a lag before it pops out of 4x4 mode this is somewhat normal right? Ok, mine thuds a little as it pops out so any dangers to be looking for? I have driven other vehicles and when you go back to 2x4 it goes back it...

Throttle body spacers only work in certain conditions like with real cold air intakes. The spacer will get hot too under the hood so how does it make a cooler air charge at the throttle body when the entire assembly is hot? Even if it did make a difference it does not give you that bang for your...