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Some good ideas here. One thing I didn't see mentioned is how did you fill the cooling system? When I did my radiator in 2016 I had to fill the coolant through the bleeder port on the upper hose otherwise I had air in the system. It does seem like you have air in the system. If all of the other...

For what it's worth, in 2016 I installed a spectra premium rad and it's still going strong to this day. Almost 80,000km. I don't have hd cooling or have even towed anything though. There's an OSC radiator on rock auto that looks interesting. I'm going to have to do some more research on that...

Sounds like air in the system and/or a bad thermostat. What I would do is drain the cooling system then replace the thermostat with a mopar then refill the cooling system through that bleeder hole. When I overhauled my cooling system the only way I could get all the air out was to fill through...

I don't think a 42rle could handle the 4.7l. Putting a 45rfe in to your 2005 would be too much hassle if at all possible. Easiest would be swapping to a manual transmission. I have no idea if that could be done. I've never heard of anybody going from auto to manual.

Does a new mopar rad come with those soft rubber air curtain things? Those went in the garbage along with my old rad. So far I haven't had any issues without them but they must be there for a reason.

I'm in Canada and the dealer here quoted me mid $500's plus tax...which would be $600. I just looked on rockauto and they have an oem for $219 CAD. That's what I paid for my aftermarket. Since when did rockauto sell mopar parts? This wasn't on there a couple of years ago. Time to order...

I had to replace mine almost 2 years ago. It's super easy if you don't have hd cooling. I went with an aftermarket radiator and so far it's been ok. I couldn't afford $600 for OEM at the time. If you can go mopar, do it. I've read so many stories of aftermarket being bad. Some tips: 1...

Several years ago I had to replace my radiator cap because it would make a PFFFFFTT noise when I would take a right turn. I went to the part store and picked up a new one. The box says ST16 on it. It's a safety release 16 psi. Today I wanted to test my anti-freeze and I was looking at the...

The time has finally come for a needing a new rear cv joint on the front drive shaft. The boot has been gone for numerous years now and it's just starting to make a clicking sound. I'm seeing 2 options for the joint; driveshaftparts.com and a dorman one from rockauto. The driveshaftparts...

I think I fixed the slow full problem. I haven't put gas in my Jeep since January and I need some today. Prior to filling up I took my small plumber snake and pushed it down the full tube. I didn't encounter any resistance but after doing that I was able to fill the tank at full speed. Sent...

The DRL system uses the high beam filaments at a lower voltage.

Definitely sounds electrical to me. To me it sounds exactly like my radiator fan when it kicks in.

The power steering hose on mine has been wet since the day I got it in 2008. I haven't had to top of the fluid. If yours is losing enough fluid to require a top up then I would look in to fixing it properly. I wouldn't trust any additive.

Yes we do, especially if the vehicle is 10 years older or more. They don't want vehicles older than 10 years on the road so they do what they can to write it off. Recently someone I know had a 2002 Lincoln town car and they rolled in to a newer f150 at a stop light. Supposedly $19,000 in...

I'm not seeing any physical kinks in the hoses so I am thinking the roll over valve is partially stuck restricting fuel flow in to the tank. I'm going to try some lucas fuel treatment and see what happens.

I haven't driven my 2005 Liberty 3.7l auto much lately. Last time I filled it up at a station was spring of 2015 and everything was fine then. My radiator broke and it sat for a while. Once and a while I would start it up and even had to put some gas in from a jerry can a couple of times...

No more leaks. New thermostat is in. It was actually the hose that was leaking and not the thermostat housing. I put 2 new stainless steel worm style clamps on the thermostat housing side of the lower hose. That should work until I can get an OEM style clamp.

Had the same thing on my '05. It was warped rotor(s). Can't remember if both fronts were warped or not. In my case, the warped rotors were caused by sticking brake calipers.

The wrong coolant wouldn't cause no heat to be produced. The rad stop leak could have partially clogged up the heater core. From what I've read on here there is no way to fully flush the heater core. The coolant can bypass the blocked parts of the heater core. There was a thread about it...

Sounds like air in the system. You need to make sure you fill the cooling system through the bleed port on the upper hose. Slowly fill through that port until coolant comes out then put the plug back in. Top up the coolant tank. Start the engine with heat on and rev to 2k for a minute. Top...