Replacing radiator

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jeepguy4276

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My ‘02’s radiator is leaking from the top front of the driver’s side so I guess it’s time for a new one as I asdume the plastic ones are repairable. So how bad of a job is it to replace one (trying to figure out how much time to set aside)? Any helpful tips? I’m not doing it immediately but will be soon.
 

HoosierJeeper

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Get Mopar only...not really a hard job.

Good time to do hoses/water pump/ tstat too. My radiator and WP failed within a week of each other. If the water pump is recent then I'd leave it, but if it's factory it might not be a bad idea. For the tstat, get Mopar and crack the bolts loose with the engine warmed up.

For hoses, Gates or Napa are fine. One thing to beware of is that the OEM hose clamps might not work as well and weep if the hose is a different thickness. Get some constant tension hose clamps like these:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/...p47032/4458974/2005/jeep/liberty?q=hose+clamp

They hold a constant tension instead of constant diameter like worm gear ones.

And of course use Zerex G05 coolant!
 

iamjordanbecker

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I did mine this summer (a month after buying it..) and it took me a couple drinks, an afternoon and a couple YouTube videos to get it done. All in all it was pretty simple! Make sure to bleed the air out when you're done!
 

Kaden

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I will tell you right now. Do not buy a aftermarket radiator of any make. They are all trash. I bought one 8 months ago when I got my Jeep and after 2 months the radiator starting leaking. I sense then bought a Mopar radiator and it hasn't leaked a drop. As far as the install and removal of the old radiator it’s fairly simple job you can get done in a couple of hours at the most.
 

eradicator006

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I had to replace mine almost 2 years ago. It's super easy if you don't have hd cooling. I went with an aftermarket radiator and so far it's been ok. I couldn't afford $600 for OEM at the time. If you can go mopar, do it. I've read so many stories of aftermarket being bad.

Some tips:

1. You may have to transfer the rubber feet off of your old rad on to the new one. I didn't realize this until after I had changed the rad & filled the system up with coolant so I had to drain it all and pull the rad again.
2. As Hoosierjeeper says, make sure to break free the thermostat bolts when the engine is hot. I didn't do this and ended up breaking the lower thermostat bolt. Luckily I was able to drill it out and put a nut on the end of a new bolt.
3. Replace hoses and clamps. Don't even bother with the regular worm style hose clamps. Those will cause leaks for sure. Go with constant pressure. I went with gates constant pressure clamps.
4. Replace thermostat and o-ring/gasket (mopar thermostat comes with all you need) if you remove the old one. I removed my thermostat to assist in draining the block and when I put the original back on it was fine for a while. About a week later it started leaking around the thermostat housing so I had to drain and fill the system once again.
5. When filling the system; fill through the bleeder port on the upper hose. I used a small funnel. Once it's full there, put the plug in then top up the coolant tank. Doing it this way will pretty much guarantee an air free system.
 

HoosierJeeper

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You can get a Mopar one from a dealer for about $260.
To fill/bleed:
1. Fill through bleeder, close bleeder
2. Fill reservoir up to cold line
3. Start it up, put heat on full, leave cap off and watch level
4. Top off as needed while it runs, wait till it's up to temp or you have good heat and the level seems stable
5. Check it again for the next few days, might have to top off a bit.
 

Kaden

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When I replaced my aftermarket radiator with a factory one I bought a OEM Mopar one of of rock auto for $226.00
 

eradicator006

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I'm in Canada and the dealer here quoted me mid $500's plus tax...which would be $600. I just looked on rockauto and they have an oem for $219 CAD. That's what I paid for my aftermarket. Since when did rockauto sell mopar parts? This wasn't on there a couple of years ago.

Time to order this. I know I will need it sooner rather than later.
 

ltd02

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I'm in Canada and the dealer here quoted me mid $500's plus tax...which would be $600. I just looked on rockauto and they have an oem for $219 CAD. That's what I paid for my aftermarket. Since when did rockauto sell mopar parts? This wasn't on there a couple of years ago.

Time to order this. I know I will need it sooner rather than later.

Rock auto has slowly been adding OE parts for years now. I get lots of stuff from them.
 

rjkj2005

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You can get a Mopar one from a dealer for about $260.
To fill/bleed:
1. Fill through bleeder, close bleeder
2. Fill reservoir up to cold line
3. Start it up, put heat on full, leave cap off and watch level
4. Top off as needed while it runs, wait till it's up to temp or you have good heat and the level seems stable
5. Check it again for the next few days, might have to top off a bit.
Only thing on your list that shouldn't be there for a liberty is turn the heat on full. Kjs don't use a heater control valve. They use a blend door. So coolant flows through the heater core all the time.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

HoosierJeeper

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Got it. Still a good indicator of if it's warming up right or if it's air locking.
 

tjkj2002

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Somewhere between being sane and insane!
Only thing on your list that shouldn't be there for a liberty is turn the heat on full. Kjs don't use a heater control valve. They use a blend door. So coolant flows through the heater core all the time.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Bower motor selection "1"(fan speed) is good enough if it works.No need to have it on full bore as that will make it heat up much,much slower.
 

rjkj2005

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Bower motor selection "1"(fan speed) is good enough if it works.No need to have it on full bore as that will make it heat up much,much slower.
There's no need to even turn the hear on. It will circulate through the heater core with the heat off. It is a full time flow through heat system.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk
 

LibertyTC

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Ya air pockets been there..
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When hot had to slightly open to get some air out.
Then allowed to completely cool overnight,and refilled Hoat coolant reservoir to cold line.
Repeated bleeding 3 mornings to get er done right.
 

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nnote

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Not hard. One of those ones though where you need gloves cause it's a knuckle slicer getting between the grill to get to some bolts
 

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