What did you do to your jeep today?

[burntkat]

How the hell is it that all four door lock motors are failing. Three of the four will cycle once or twice, before slowing down and failing to move the door lock indicator. If you wait a couple minutes and try again, they'll move again, and then slow down. I tried taking apart the passenger front assembly, but the motor is in a completely sealed housing.

See my previous post, re: "relay bypass for old headlights"
Voltage drop is the problem. You need to add relays at each door (kick panel is a good place) and run wire from them to the lock actuators. Granted, they're a module instead of just an actuator these days, but same concept.

I have a slow/lazy motor. In my case, I'm going to replace the actual motor itself, by desoldering off the board and soldering in a new motor. If I had a global issue (all 4 doors) I'd run aux power by way of a relay bypass.

Suggestion for a starting point for your project - the XJ Door Lock Relay Bypass hack... I can't find the link I am looking for at the MO, am at work and can look later this evening. It won't be directly applicable, as the XJ uses actuators and ours are actually an assembly on a PCB. But it should help point you in the right direction.

 

[burntkat]

Well, I started with a reman, that worked for a couple days. I've had a few experiences with aftermarket parts now being bad and needing to be immediately replaced so I thought I'd try and find an OEM replacement. People seem to have had good experiences with Edelmann stuff so maybe I'll order one of them. I'll be able to do this with my eyes closed after this

Maybe the problem isn't the part. Tell me what you're seeing so far.
I ask because it may be as bad as a missed oring.... Ask me how I know that one...

 

[sota]

See my previous post, re: "relay bypass for old headlights"
Voltage drop is the problem. You need to add relays at each door (kick panel is a good place) and run wire from them to the lock actuators. Granted, they're a module instead of just an actuator these days, but same concept.

I have a slow/lazy motor. In my case, I'm going to replace the actual motor itself, by desoldering off the board and soldering in a new motor. If I had a global issue (all 4 doors) I'd run aux power by way of a relay bypass.

Suggestion for a starting point for your project - the XJ Door Lock Relay Bypass hack... I can't find the link I am looking for at the MO, am at work and can look later this evening. It won't be directly applicable, as the XJ uses actuators and ours are actually an assembly on a PCB. But it should help point you in the right direction.

it wasn't voltage drop issues to the switches. I put the 4 "parts" ones in, and they work perfectly. I even up-down'ed them a dozen times straight with no issues. On the old ones, 1 wouldn't work at all, 2 would fail after 2 moves, and 1 would fail after 3.
I even put the "bad" ones back in the parts jeep, and they do the same exact thing.

 

[burntkat]

Drove mine today, as I have been. The spacers have been working fine, though there is some rubbing. I drive carefully and it is fine til I can get to it, or more accurately, decide what I am cutting out....

It's been raining and the kid has been stressed by too many 6 day weeks so we haven't done much of late.

Seems the motor mounts I replaced 2 years back are already shot. Anyone got recommends for a good brand of mounts? I'm also considering chaining them this time...

 

[burntkat]

it wasn't voltage drop issues to the switches. I put the 4 "parts" ones in, and they work perfectly. I even up-down'ed them a dozen times straight with no issues. On the old ones, 1 wouldn't work at all, 2 would fail after 2 moves, and 1 would fail after 3.
I even put the "bad" ones back in the parts jeep, and they do the same exact thing.

Well you've certainly troubleshot it well.
I agree. It's just weird they're all failing at once.

 

[burntkat]

it wasn't voltage drop issues to the switches. I put the 4 "parts" ones in, and they work perfectly. I even up-down'ed them a dozen times straight with no issues. On the old ones, 1 wouldn't work at all, 2 would fail after 2 moves, and 1 would fail after 3.
I even put the "bad" ones back in the parts jeep, and they do the same exact thing.

I found the writeup on the door lock fix (again this is for bare actuators in an XJ. Shows the idea, not meant as a direct treatise on a KJ) https://naxja.org/threads/greg-smith-power-door-locks-writeup-pre-1991.1874/page-2#post-196279

 

[Brendon Holt]

Maybe the problem isn't the part. Tell me what you're seeing so far.
I ask because it may be as bad as a missed oring.... Ask me how I know that one...

The pump has always been a little noisy since I've owned it. I did some fluid flushes when I first got it and that would quiet it down for a bit but it got progressively worse to the point of the steering getting stiff and the pump whining constantly at idle so I eventually replaced the high pressure line and the power steering pump with the Napa reman.

The bearing on the pump I removed had visibly failed. And after replacing the pump and high pressure hose it did feel better for a couple days but then the steering started to get stiff again and the pump started whining again. I took the belt off and could feel play in the bearing already, so at that point I decided to find a replacement (salvage) pump.

The fluid in the reservoir doesn't foam up or seem aerated so I don't think it's sucking in air anywhere. I'm starting to wonder if the rack has some issues internally.

 

[seafish]

What is a DTC?

Diagnostic Trouble Code

 

[duderz7]

You must be registered for see images attach

wow! Looks like yesterday was a busy one for many of you. Here's the new tires put on yesterday.

 

[DadOSix]

The pump has always been a little noisy since I've owned it. I did some fluid flushes when I first got it and that would quiet it down for a bit but it got progressively worse to the point of the steering getting stiff and the pump whining constantly at idle so I eventually replaced the high pressure line and the power steering pump with the Napa reman.

The bearing on the pump I removed had visibly failed. And after replacing the pump and high pressure hose it did feel better for a couple days but then the steering started to get stiff again and the pump started whining again. I took the belt off and could feel play in the bearing already, so at that point I decided to find a replacement (salvage) pump.

The fluid in the reservoir doesn't foam up or seem aerated so I don't think it's sucking in air anywhere. I'm starting to wonder if the rack has some issues internally.

The rack can cause issues a couple ways.

If your fluid is foamy, the rack itself can be drawing air on the return side.

If you seem to be losing fluid and it isnt leaking at the punp, it is likely that the seals on the rack are shot - or the bore scored. Either way, the boots (inner tie rods) will be fluid filled and maybe visibly distented (swollen).

There is a reseal kit available. I have 1 for my 04. Have not tried it yet.

 

[Hec In Omaha]

The pump has always been a little noisy since I've owned it. I did some fluid flushes when I first got it and that would quiet it down for a bit but it got progressively worse to the point of the steering getting stiff and the pump whining constantly at idle so I eventually replaced the high pressure line and the power steering pump with the Napa reman.

The bearing on the pump I removed had visibly failed. And after replacing the pump and high pressure hose it did feel better for a couple days but then the steering started to get stiff again and the pump started whining again. I took the belt off and could feel play in the bearing already, so at that point I decided to find a replacement (salvage) pump.

The fluid in the reservoir doesn't foam up or seem aerated so I don't think it's sucking in air anywhere. I'm starting to wonder if the rack has some issues internally.

For what it’s worth, I looked through all our service records, for Quackers our 2009 KK, and the Jeep dealership replaced the power steering pump at 92,000 miles. Quackers was pampered by the previous owners who were elderly so no abuse here. So in a perfect world the power steering pump didn’t make it 100,000 miles.

 

[Brendon Holt]

Bearing on the reman pump after taking off the pulley

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[burntkat]

The pump has always been a little noisy since I've owned it. I did some fluid flushes when I first got it and that would quiet it down for a bit but it got progressively worse to the point of the steering getting stiff and the pump whining constantly at idle so I eventually replaced the high pressure line and the power steering pump with the Napa reman.
....
The fluid in the reservoir doesn't foam up or seem aerated so I don't think it's sucking in air anywhere. I'm starting to wonder if the rack has some issues internally.

I think you're on the right track. Have you considered putting an inline filter (I recommend the Magnefine filters) in the return? I'd also put one on the trans return while you're at it. These do amazing things for fluid power systems.

Reason I ask is, if you had a bad bearing, you definitely had excursion of the impeller into the pump case walls. This made frag, which went - everywhere-. Your problem is likely related to that frag getting in the spool valve (or similar) of the rack, binding it.

I had similar issues when I installed hydroboost steering in one of my projects- the in-line filter cleaned up the fluid and the problems went away.

It's useful on an auto trany (sic) for the same reason.

 

[Brendon Holt]

I think you're on the right track. Have you considered putting an inline filter (I recommend the Magnefine filters) in the return? I'd also put one on the trans return while you're at it. These do amazing things for fluid power systems.

Reason I ask is, if you had a bad bearing, you definitely had excursion of the impeller into the pump case walls. This made frag, which went - everywhere-. Your problem is likely related to that frag getting in the spool valve (or similar) of the rack, binding it.

I had similar issues when I installed hydroboost steering in one of my projects- the in-line filter cleaned up the fluid and the problems went away.

It's useful on an auto trany (sic) for the same reason.

Yeah at this point my working theory is that the pump that was on the car when I bought it was already failing. The bearing on that pump was cooked too when I took the pulley off to transfer it to the new reman pump.

When I replaced the pump and high pressure line I didn't flush the system because I didn't know any better. And I'm guessing the junk in the system quickly killed the second reman pump.

The salvage pump I think is just old. And I think any improvement I did feel on the steering (less tight spots) probably came from flushing 2qts of clean fluid through the system.

So, maybe a replacement pump, another flush, and then installing an in-line filter on the return line is the right move. The rack doesn't leak and doesn't really show any outward signs of having failed so maybe really cleaning the system out and having the filter could turn it around.

 

[seafish]

This is what I did for a full flow PS fluid filter on my 2005 truck…with pics

Full flow Power Steering Filter Install w/ pics

Several years ago, in the course of installing a bypass Coolant Filter mounted to the back of the bumper support frame and just in front of the...

www.turbodieselregister.com

 

[Brendon Holt]

This is what I did for a full flow PS fluid filter on my 2005 truck…with pics

Full flow Power Steering Filter Install w/ pics

Several years ago, in the course of installing a bypass Coolant Filter mounted to the back of the bumper support frame and just in front of the...

www.turbodieselregister.com

Good lord. It is a beautiful piece of work

 

[duderz7]

Fresh clutch on the fan today, nothing to exciting.

 

[seafish]

Good lord. It is a beautiful piece of work

My truck, Maya, was my first diesel love … so I treated her extra special.
Note that she is also MUCH less demanding then Giddyup is.

 

[burntkat]

So, maybe a replacement pump, another flush, and then installing an in-line filter on the return line is the right move. The rack doesn't leak and doesn't really show any outward signs of having failed so maybe really cleaning the system out and having the filter could turn it around.

You're on the right track. But you absolutely need to put an online filter in the return line.

I'd even go so far as to say, install it before you do the rest of the work... You may find you don't need to do the rest once you've cleaned up the fluid. Depending on how dirty the fluid is, might have two filters on hand... One to let load up and do the bulk of the cleanup- and then throw away, and the other to 'polish' the fluid super clean

FYI, the arrow goes to the reservoir (for PSP) or the transmission, as there is a one-way pressure relief valve in the unit. Definitely don't put it on the pressure lines.

Assuming a 3/8ID line, this is what I'd recommend....

Amazon.com: Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic Inline Transmission Filter : Automotive

Buy Magnefine 3/8" Magnetic Inline Transmission Filter: Air Filters - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

This one also works well... https://a.co/d/hhSR1LH

I currently have examples of both in service in my vehicles.

 

[burntkat]

This is what I did for a full flow PS fluid filter on my 2005 truck…with pics

Full flow Power Steering Filter Install w/ pics

Several years ago, in the course of installing a bypass Coolant Filter mounted to the back of the bumper support frame and just in front of the...

www.turbodieselregister.com

I had to do very similar with my 89 S10 Blazer when I did a SAS with D44a front and rear, a smallblock V8, and hydroboost brakes. The brakes gave me fits - I had new EVERYTHING (except for a salvage HB out of a HMMWV, which I had no idea if it had been sitting on a depot shelf for decades, or pulled from a demo'd Hummer) , and still the brakes would auto-apply before I could even get out of the driveway.

Had to stop and sleep on it, and wound up realizing that I had frag somewhere still in the system (likely the HB unit). I realized that due to the spool valve in the HB, anything in the fluid would immobilize the vehicle. So I needed the extra capacity and convenience of a full flow filter (should be noted, it still goes in the return circuit), which required running from the HB unit, down the driver's framerail to the front crossmember/spring hanger, through the filter, and back to the PSP mounted 18" in front of the HB unit... Kind of a pain.

But it fixed the problem, and if I wish, I can lock up 35s at 60mph... But I do NOT recommend doing so. Life gets way too exciting.