What did you do to your jeep today?

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lfhoward

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It's buttoned up and it runs :cool:

Will do a proper drive tomorrow

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Excellent work!! I will look forward to your report. Here’s hoping for a smooth powerful engine.
 

Johnny O

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Watched a guy melt down at the gas station today whilst taking a coffee break. Clerk had to call the cops when he started beating the pump with a tire iron.

The tire irony being he couldn't figure out where to put the nozzle on his brand new, still-has-temp-tags Tesla...
 

lfhoward

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Watched a guy melt down at the gas station today whilst taking a coffee break. Clerk had to call the cops when he started beating the pump with a tire iron.

The tire irony being he couldn't figure out where to put the nozzle on his brand new, still-has-temp-tags Tesla...
No way! Please tell me you made that up. :eek:
 

Billwill

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Had the Clutch and Flywheel replaced on my 2002 2.5 CRD at about 200,000 kms and replaced the Oil Seal at end of Crankshaft!

Had to have a Specialist Shop do the work as Jeep Worldwide refuses to work on KJs!

Works fine....now need to find a shop to fit Shock Absorbers all around and do Wheel alignment!;)
 

lfhoward

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@Billwill the rear upper shock bolts on my 08 are rusted solid in the unibody and I can’t get them to move. I just got replacement bolts because I’m pretty sure I’m going to need them.

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Here is a good how-to on getting a broken bolt out of a pocket like this. Not sure if KJ’s are set up the same with the shock bolt in the unibody. The video is for upper shackle bolts on an XJ but it’s the exact same problem.
 

Deb'nKJ

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& there was me thinking rear shox are one of the very few easy jobs on a KJ.

XJ top mounts are completer different, as are the (well chronicled) problems.

This problem is more akin to leaf spring front mounting bolts where Loctite is more of problem than rust - &, if you're working at ground level poor access is another factor.

Douse with penetrant of choice, heat bolt head 'til cherry red, that should deal with the Loctite. More penetrant, a rattle gun will come in handy, although you'll probably have to "crack" the bolt with lots of leverage first. Tip: don't try to work within the fender well. Use an extension, supported on a jackstand, so you can concentrate effort on that 2'+ breaker bar, now presented at a very convenient working height.
If it comes to it, drill a small hole close to where the bolt enters the mounting, insert straw from penetrant spray, so you can soak the nut/tip of the bolt. It's a still a bit hit & miss, so just apply far more than you think necessary. However, that's only going to help if rust really is the problem.
 

profdlp

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I have been going to the gym regularly for two months now. Today I felt it was time to crank things up a notch. Everything went really well. But after a big weight workout I often get this post-workout mental fog. No big deal, I feel great otherwise - guess the endorphins really do get you high. So I am most of the way home from the gym and I realize the heat is not working. We're right around freezing here so it is not awful, but cold enough that heat is kind of nice... So I give the fan a bump. Nothing. Bump it again to "3" (second-highest speed) at which point even a deaf guy like me can at least hear something. Zip Zilch Nada Zero. My poor addled brain is already starting to try and process what I need to do to replace the blower resistor.

Then I realized that I had not turned the daggone thing on to begin with.
 

Johnny O

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The more I roll around on these KO3s, the more I understand why they are the new OE. Perhaps it is just my piece of mind of having all new rubber on the road, but I swear they are not only more quiet they ride better than the KO2s.
 

Billwill

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@Billwill the rear upper shock bolts on my 08 are rusted solid in the unibody and I can’t get them to move. I just got replacement bolts because I’m pretty sure I’m going to need them.

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Here is a good how-to on getting a broken bolt out of a pocket like this. Not sure if KJ’s are set up the same with the shock bolt in the unibody. The video is for upper shackle bolts on an XJ but it’s the exact same problem.
Thanks for the advice but I live in a pretty warm, dry area and Rust has never been a problem in my life!
 
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Took my 03 Sport to the mandatory annual road worthiness test, with expected results... Rear sills on both sides were rutted away, bushings on the boomerang were gone, handbrake was inefficient and rear diff was leaking oil. So now it's in local body shop to get sills fixed and next week I'll get the rest done. Don't have the time or place or skills to do it on my own.
And when finished have to start planning to get my 04's blown head gasket fixed...
 

derekj

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The more I roll around on these KO3s, the more I understand why they are the new OE. Perhaps it is just my piece of mind of having all new rubber on the road, but I swear they are not only more quiet they ride better than the KO2s.
They were sooooooo far overdue for a redesign - good to hear that your experience has been positive so far. Maybe with these new improvements they can take back their spot at the top of the A/T food chain.
 

Johnny O

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They were sooooooo far overdue for a redesign - good to hear that your experience has been positive so far. Maybe with these new improvements they can take back their spot at the top of the A/T food chain.
I dunno, had been driving around on a KO2 that had three nails in it and still held air, in addition to the one I had plugged due to a nail, which I only noticed while airing up due to extreme low temperaturs.
 

sota

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wondering if KO3's would be good on the liberty.
 
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