uss2defiant
Full Access Member
Bob, did you do a write up on your install?
What did you do to your jeep today?
- Thread starter TheQ
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
the_dealer
Full Access Member
I've always liked the pioneer avh double din models. The downfall to the Alpine was the 3 band eq, and very limited adjustments. I never could get decent sound out of it. The pioneer has so much more features. I won't like I sat in the driveway for a couple of hours trying to get mirror link to work (with success!). I've been toying with the idea of using a vga cord and wireless mous from my laptop so I can use it as a monitor when I run autoenginuity. Could tuck the laptop under the seat and I wouldn't have to worry about it ending up in the repair shop. Autoenginuity is one of the few decently priced ones that can do the crap drb is needed for.
So continuing on my wiring endeavors, I have 6 new ev6 injector pigtails. I figured the ones that weren't messed up would decide to disintegrate at the worst possible time, so they're all getting replaced.
I also happened to break the hardest f**king parts to find, the alternator field connector. This thing was beyond jacked up to begin with, and add me moving the wiring and everything around it decided to give up.
At this point I'm scared to keep going, it keeps costing me money. So far it's a tps plug, 6 injector plugs, alternator field plug, about a foot of mangled wire for the battery temp sensor, a small split in the coolant overflow tank, a leaking pressure hose(steering), and the constant reminders of where my fingers are by my soldering iron. Oh well, better now than on the side of the road in the rain with very few electrical tools.
Sent from my G870a on 38's.
So continuing on my wiring endeavors, I have 6 new ev6 injector pigtails. I figured the ones that weren't messed up would decide to disintegrate at the worst possible time, so they're all getting replaced.
You must be registered for see images attach
I also happened to break the hardest f**king parts to find, the alternator field connector. This thing was beyond jacked up to begin with, and add me moving the wiring and everything around it decided to give up.
You must be registered for see images attach
At this point I'm scared to keep going, it keeps costing me money. So far it's a tps plug, 6 injector plugs, alternator field plug, about a foot of mangled wire for the battery temp sensor, a small split in the coolant overflow tank, a leaking pressure hose(steering), and the constant reminders of where my fingers are by my soldering iron. Oh well, better now than on the side of the road in the rain with very few electrical tools.
Sent from my G870a on 38's.
joeysjeep
Full Access Member
I washed and waxed mine yesterday vacuumed it and got it all cleaned up then it rained last night lol.
I did some major work water pump radiator serpentine belt both upper and lower radiator hoses and thermostat plus to gals of zerex g05 fun stuff. Mechanical fan came off without a hitch though doused it in pb and did the wire through the water pump trick uss2defiant suggested. Thanks to him and everyone on here for the multiple tips i seen in different threads.
Crawled around under mine. No drips but some wet stuff under there. ****** pan (front pass corner) and both pinion seals. Checked all the fluid levels and all was fine. Rear diff actually flowed out when I pulled the plug. Nice and clean looking but not sure why it would flow out. Must have filled it with the nose pointing down in my driveway. Checked it level in the garage. Didn't let much drain out before jamming the plug back in. Nothing like the smell of good old dino gear oil.
Any issues with a slight overfill??
Any issues with a slight overfill??
Was rear diff warm when u pulled fill plug? Even though I have the riddler cover, I slam lube in there and try to get it to where a tiny bit will leak out. If it is level let some leak out, it should be just at hole line.
Have had enough of leaking trans pans from poor goop seal/ contact and switched to a PML pan and lubelocker gasket. No more leaks. Even on the diff & Riddler, 8.25 lubelocker and perfect seals.
BTW the only way to see inside the rear diff and to ensure it is clean, is to pull the cover.
I get mud cakes ....ha ha...change the rear diff frequently, and use brake kleen in there first, before adding new gear lube!
53327[/ATTACH]"]
Gear Lube oil smell = :yucky::-&
Have had enough of leaking trans pans from poor goop seal/ contact and switched to a PML pan and lubelocker gasket. No more leaks. Even on the diff & Riddler, 8.25 lubelocker and perfect seals.
BTW the only way to see inside the rear diff and to ensure it is clean, is to pull the cover.
I get mud cakes ....ha ha...change the rear diff frequently, and use brake kleen in there first, before adding new gear lube!
53327[/ATTACH]"]
You must be registered for see images attach
Gear Lube oil smell = :yucky::-&
Attachments
That sensor on the passenger side trans pan has a tendency to leak. I dropped my pan and redid the rtv all because i thought it was leaking. It wasnt it was that sensor. I wrapped a rag around it and cleaned the hole pan went for a drive. When i got back i checked it the pan was dry the rag was soaked.
CzarKJ
Full Access Member
Browsed the detours site for an hour today after claiming my jeep is complete....
Diff was cold, well it was around 85 here today. When I do mine I put it in until it runs out too. This seemed a bit excessive though but the fluid was clean as a whistle. I've only got about 5k on this diff fluid. Usually change it every 12-15k with the complete cover removal and good cleaning of the innards. Mines really just a mall crawler so no heavy use. I do use a gasket on the diff and no leaks.
I really checked the sensor carefully and it looks dry and clean. Got right up on it to make sure. Still clean from when I installed my Sonnax line pressure booster. Will do the RTV next time but tempted to try the Lubelocker like LibertyTC suggested. They are reusable too aren't they?
Yes the gaskets are re-useable a few times.
I am on my second re-do using the same LL gasket, on rear diff.
When service is due again on the trans pan, I will just another gasket to be on the safe side.
I am on my second re-do using the same LL gasket, on rear diff.
When service is due again on the trans pan, I will just another gasket to be on the safe side.
Guys, diff lube should be approx 1/2" below fill hole cold to allow for expansion. Yall are really putting a load on your axle seals running them that full, and that little dab wouldn't make a hoot in hell difference lubricating the actual internals.
Bob
Bob
May be why my pinion seal is slinging oil. Think I'll park it on a slight incline and let it drain a bit. Never had this problem with my Ranger. Always have to stick my finger in there to see if the level is correct.
I was just letting you know ***** dropping the pan and doing all the work to still have a leak from that sensor. I was opting to use a gasket but there was a grove specially made for rtv on my 2002.
TwoBobsKJ
Full Access Member
Just got a new pan for my last change (also with the groove like the OEM). Old one was rusting and PO had deformed that one by using a gasket and over torquing one corner. Surprisingly I couldn't get the RTV to seal so used a gasket. Had a second gasket so tried it on this new one but back to RTV next time. No drips, just wet. I'll pull the sensor next time I do the filter/fluid change and make sure. Thanks!
arty52:I hate that sensor. Its two o rings that seal it. I bought a new mopar sensor $46 on amazon. Could have just got new o ring but they dont sell them specificly for that. I didnt want to pull it out and go around trying to find the right ones. But yea i used rtv no problems. That is what the groove is for i assume.
In my experience years ago now, the stamped steel pans do warp and would leak within a few months, dealer did not understand why..Just got a new pan for my last change (also with the groove like the OEM). Old one was rusting and PO had deformed that one by using a gasket and over torquing one corner. Surprisingly I couldn't get the RTV to seal so used a gasket. Had a second gasket so tried it on this new one but back to RTV next time. No drips, just wet. I'll pull the sensor next time I do the filter/fluid change and make sure. Thanks!
Pan appeared level yet they had to RTV re-seal twice, before I gave up on the thin stamped pans altogether.
No more leaks and problem solved for me...:gr_grin:
53351[/ATTACH]"]
You must be registered for see images attach
If you also one day give up, this may be a good choice for 42RLE owners.
arty52:Attachments
Got underneath today and sprayedmost of the frame with rustoleum gloss Black easy as could be looking fresh did the trans support too. Thinking about doing the wheel wells with gloss black they are looking pretty dingy.
I used flat the first time hard to clean. Did hammered gray the second time never looked clean. So gloss black this time.
Similar threads
