What did you do to your jeep today?

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seafish

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This afternoon, I jacked up Giddyup and crawled underneath in order to replace her original Crankshaft Position Sensor that MIGHT have caused the warm crank/no start situation which happened out of the blue a few weeks ago though has not repeated since.

Replacing the CPS from underneath was definitely a squeeze for my hands and the few tools needed, but also meant that I did not need to remove anything except the parts involved -- the heat shield over the CPS (2 10mm bolts), the sensor itself (5mm allen head) , and I also did unscrew the pigtail hold down bracket (8mm bolt) to make disconnecting and inserting the new sensor into the bracket easier, since I couldn't see how those parts actually locked together until after I removed them. Job was done in less then an hour, including rotating the tires. :cool:

Then I crawled on top of the engine and also replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor for good measure. EZ-PZ done in 5 minutes. ;)

Finally I replaced the Auto Shut Down relay in the fuse box, just in case it was "sticky" and contributing to the pesky crank/no start.
Of course, that didn't take but 30 seconds, with most of that spent trying to find my glasses in order to read the tiny print on the lid to identify the correct relay. :rolleyes:

Below are pics of the Standard Motor Products part numbers for the sensors.
Note that the Cam sensor is repackaged and made in Italy, so likely OEM, though the Crank sensor is "Hecho in China"

I have since learned from a knowledgable LostJeeps member that the Crank sensor from Autozone's house "Duralast" brand can be a repackaged OEM Bosch sensor, but that was only after I had ordered both the parts from Rock Auto. So far I have had only good quality experiences with SMP ignition parts and sensors and I got both for $80, which is less then the cost of one from IDP. That said, it would be a good idea to check with your local Autozone for these parts to see if you can get OEM quality for even LESS monies.

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mateorosi

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So today I just washed my car. Was kinda dirty and the wearher is nice to do that. Who live in Vancouver know how much time you have to wash your car so I recommend to protect your car from salt and slush damage, it's best to wash it every one to two weeks during the winter months and during the summer, consider washing your car every three to four weeks to keep it clean. Keep an eye out for tree sap and bird droppings, as they can harm your paint if not removed promptly. For more info read this aricle https://gleamworksdetailing.ca/how-often-should-you-wash-your-car-in-vancouver/. Stay clean guys lol
 
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Have to replace front driveshaft... can't put it off any longer. Any input from anyone on recommended brands? RockAuto has SKP for $162 and Cardone for $340, Dorman for $365. Any favorites/warnings about any of these options?
(I know there are kits out there to repair the existing shaft but currently that's not an option - too many other things on the non-vehicle To-Do list so just want to put a complete shaft back in - unless the above options are all deemed bad)
 

duderz7

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Have to replace front driveshaft... can't put it off any longer. Any input from anyone on recommended brands? RockAuto has SKP for $162 and Cardone for $340, Dorman for $365. Any favorites/warnings about any of these options?
(I know there are kits out there to repair the existing shaft but currently that's not an option - too many other things on the non-vehicle To-Do list so just want to put a complete shaft back in - unless the above options are all deemed bad)
Replacing the cv at the will take 20‐30 minutes longer and you'll save lots of money doing it. There are multiple lengths of drive shaft depending on configuration. Many have struggled to get the correct one first time, but the cvs are all the same.
 

nbas

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Refurbished all 5 rims and now waiting for my new tires, Goodyear Wrangler Duratrac RT.
Very happy with the Cooper STT Pro's, I have them for 6 years and 55.000KM and they were great off-road,
fine on-road, excellent on Mud, only down side was on wet roads (expected as it is an MT tire).
Now since I am planning to using it more on-road and less in Mud than before, I chose the new Duratrac RT...
 
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Replacing the cv at the will take 20‐30 minutes longer and you'll save lots of money doing it. There are multiple lengths of drive shaft depending on configuration. Many have struggled to get the correct one first time, but the cvs are all the same.
Thanks for the warning about the varying length. Currently I'm away from home dealing with a situation, so no tools or workspace available. I had a shop remove it because it started sounding really bad over the course of the past week and I was afraid it would start doing damage to other things (lots of miles driven.) So I'm currently driving without but don't want to do that for too long. I'm looking at another month before I could get to it.
 

sota

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Have to replace front driveshaft... can't put it off any longer. Any input from anyone on recommended brands? RockAuto has SKP for $162 and Cardone for $340, Dorman for $365. Any favorites/warnings about any of these options?
(I know there are kits out there to repair the existing shaft but currently that's not an option - too many other things on the non-vehicle To-Do list so just want to put a complete shaft back in - unless the above options are all deemed bad)
 

sota

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Thanks for the warning about the varying length. Currently I'm away from home dealing with a situation, so no tools or workspace available. I had a shop remove it because it started sounding really bad over the course of the past week and I was afraid it would start doing damage to other things (lots of miles driven.) So I'm currently driving without but don't want to do that for too long. I'm looking at another month before I could get to it.
unless you need 4wd any time soon, you can drive pretty much indefinitely with the front shaft removed.
 

Jeremy-WI

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unless you need 4wd any time soon, you can drive pretty much indefinitely with the front shaft removed.
They run fine without the front driveshaft, I had mine out for a week or so as I wanted to replace my starter and then noticed the rear cv was shot. It was easy ordering the right length as the old one still had the part number on the sticker- that had to defy some odds
 

sota

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Well the Jeep continues to be a bit of a pain in the ass lately. I'm not sure yet, but changing the upstream sensor has apparently cured the reporting lean condition. When I data log that sensor it appeared to be switching appropriately. That was a week ago. Now, I took it out for a drive today, and immediately pop the check engine light, with no chime again. I get home and pull the codes, and it's reporting a code for bank 2 sensor 2 circuit high, and bank 2 sensor 2 circuit low. I don't know how you can have both!

Now, I do know that there is an issue with the plug for that sensor. The previous owner when I bought it in 2010, must have had somebody dicking around with something, as the sensor was no longer clipped to the crossmember. At some point it also fallen and touch the exhaust, which had melted both the sensor side and the body side connectors slightly. I guess it's possible I'm going to be fighting that problem now.
 
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Deb'nKJ

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Not really today (but I didn't think of it at the time) but one of the souvenirs from my last 2 weeks American road trip was a valve cover gasket set (full marks to the guy at O'Reilly's in Barstow, CA for checking their store in the next place on my itinerary had one in stock). Horrendous price though, without shipping, VAT (sales tax) & duty & even though it's Fel-Pro, still made in China.

If there's enough good weather left, after I've finished the essentials for inspection, I might even tackle installation.
 
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They run fine without the front driveshaft, I had mine out for a week or so as I wanted to replace my starter and then noticed the rear cv was shot. It was easy ordering the right length as the old one still had the part number on the sticker- that had to defy some odds
Can I ask which brand you ordered and how you decided on that brand? (I don't need 4WD until I do, so don't want to wait too long.)
 

Jeremy-WI

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I bought a Dorman 938124 from rock auto, it wasn't the cheapest but it wasn't as much as local parts stores wanted. When putting a good one in, just place the rear of the driveshaft close to the transfer case, there is room on one side or the other, then put the front in first and get some bolts in it as it may not be possible to put the rear in first and then get the front in without damaging it
 
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I bought a Dorman 938124 from rock auto, it wasn't the cheapest but it wasn't as much as local parts stores wanted. When putting a good one in, just place the rear of the driveshaft close to the transfer case, there is room on one side or the other, then put the front in first and get some bolts in it as it may not be possible to put the rear in first and then get the front in without damaging it
Thanks, really appreciate the info.
 

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