What did you do to your jeep today?

CherokeeLiberty

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I washed it today. Then, I came home to find my driveway a muddy mess. The CV shaft and intermediate shaft will finally be replaced tomorrow.
 

duderz7

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Well it is in a way,
that is what I am doing tomorrow on at least the 03, Oil, lube, filter, air filter, rotate tires etc
Ya, this was my 3rd oil change this week on 3 different vehicles. Glad it's the last one. Probably rotate tires tomorrow, check plugs, clean throttle body, and other bits and bobs along the way.
 

AJ9P

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Ya, this was my 3rd oil change this week on 3 different vehicles. Glad it's the last one. Probably rotate tires tomorrow, check plugs, clean throttle body, and other bits and bobs along the way.
How does one clean the throttle body? Thanks
 

sota

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according to my spreadsheet i'm due for diff fluids.
need to go look again... t-case is 30k as well? and the manual trans?
guess I need to go open my book :D
 

duderz7

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How does one clean the throttle body? Thanks
You can either remove it from the jeep or clean it place with sensor safe carb cleaner. Just manually open butterfly, spray and wipe. Removing it makes it easier to get it cleaner, but not necessary. Lots of videos on the Google machine. Might as well clean the iac while you are at it
 

David13

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Well, the only thing I did to the Jeep yesterday was drive it to work, which I didn't want to do, as it gets less than one half the gas mileage as the Honda, but I had to. As the Honda got in an argument with a deer and suffered from it. The front is nicely smashed in on the driver's front corner and also the windshield is smashed.

I think it's about $1,000 in junk yard parts, roughly. I see deer kill 200 people a year. And the average vehicle damage is $4,000. Mine would be $4 to 6 k at a shop, and that's about the value of the car. But it has 50,000 miles yet to go and runs perfect (still). Last summer I took the collision and comprehensive off.

I have been itching to go back to the junkyard, haven't been in years. And that was in Los Angeles. They were close but you had to walk to find your car.

Here, they are in the range of 100 miles away but have on line inventory and I see abut 5 my car's color at various yards.

So I need to tear the car apart and see what it needs.

Oh, I also checked the power steering fluid on the Jeep, it's holding but I know it was down and has some leaks. I'm still waiting for the cross member and nuts I ordered. Might need to get the rear transmission mount as well, as the downward studs are rusty.

But that's after I get the Honda car back in service to get near to 40 mpg instead of (haven't used it enough to have an exact number) but maybe 15 to 18 mpg on the Jeep. It's 22 country miles to work, each way.

Oh, I have no spare for the Jeep, I'm still thinking how I want to do that. And a slow leak on one tire.

But a lady was telling me about her experience with a body shop here. So I went over. They can do the windshield, and maybe a junkyard windshield. They have a frame machine, if I need it, and also a tire machine. I also saw a "shout out" from Matt's Off Road Recovery about this body shop and owner. So he may be able to help me with the junkyard rebuild (Honda car).

The little forest creature also knocked out the power steerring on the Honda. I'll see what that needs.

So, plenty to do, to even get back to the Jeep.
dc
 

CherokeeLiberty

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I am currently battling with the front rotor... It’s seized to the hub. I’m taking a break and letting the PB Blaster creep in.
 

duderz7

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I am currently battling with the front rotor... It’s seized to the hub. I’m taking a break and letting the PB Blaster creep in.
Tapping around the hub with a 3 or 4lb mini sledge usually breaks it free. If that doesn't work and you're replacing it any way you can hit the back of the rotor after removing the caliper. A couple whacks, rotate, a couple more, and so on. Keep it mostly straight or you'll get hung up on on wheel studs.
 

CherokeeLiberty

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Tapping around the hub with a 3 or 4lb mini sledge usually breaks it free. If that doesn't work and you're replacing it any way you can hit the back of the rotor after removing the caliper. A couple whacks, rotate, a couple more, and so on. Keep it mostly straight or you'll get hung up on on wheel studs.
I sprayed the crap out of it and am having lunch and coffee. The hammer blows did nothing. The brakes do need to be changed out, but that’s a job for the next paycheck.
 

tommudd

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Well, the only thing I did to the Jeep yesterday was drive it to work, which I didn't want to do, as it gets less than one half the gas mileage as the Honda, but I had to. As the Honda got in an argument with a deer and suffered from it. The front is nicely smashed in on the driver's front corner and also the windshield is smashed.

I think it's about $1,000 in junk yard parts, roughly. I see deer kill 200 people a year. And the average vehicle damage is $4,000. Mine would be $4 to 6 k at a shop, and that's about the value of the car. But it has 50,000 miles yet to go and runs perfect (still). Last summer I took the collision and comprehensive off.

I have been itching to go back to the junkyard, haven't been in years. And that was in Los Angeles. They were close but you had to walk to find your car.

Here, they are in the range of 100 miles away but have on line inventory and I see abut 5 my car's color at various yards.

So I need to tear the car apart and see what it needs.

Oh, I also checked the power steering fluid on the Jeep, it's holding but I know it was down and has some leaks. I'm still waiting for the cross member and nuts I ordered. Might need to get the rear transmission mount as well, as the downward studs are rusty.

But that's after I get the Honda car back in service to get near to 40 mpg instead of (haven't used it enough to have an exact number) but maybe 15 to 18 mpg on the Jeep. It's 22 country miles to work, each way.

Oh, I have no spare for the Jeep, I'm still thinking how I want to do that. And a slow leak on one tire.

But a lady was telling me about her experience with a body shop here. So I went over. They can do the windshield, and maybe a junkyard windshield. They have a frame machine, if I need it, and also a tire machine. I also saw a "shout out" from Matt's Off Road Recovery about this body shop and owner. So he may be able to help me with the junkyard rebuild (Honda car).

The little forest creature also knocked out the power steerring on the Honda. I'll see what that needs.

So, plenty to do, to even get back to the Jeep.
dc

See that is why you drive a Jeep with an ARB bumper, I've hit a few deer at speed ( 55-60) and didn't even scratch the bumper, just hair and ground up deer meat .
That ARB also took out a Camry that pulled out in front of me and then stopped dead , cop sitting watching the fool laughed his butt off when I had 2 scratches and the Camry had to be towed
I drive mine to work, over 90 miles round trip, will never drive a disco car no matter the gas mileage
BUT to each his own
 

sota

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ok so this is interesting.
I grabbed my owner's manual, went to the fluids and lubricants table, and it says
front: Mopar Gear & Axle Lubricant (SAE 80W-90) or equivalent.
rear: Mopar Synthetic Gear Lubricant (SAE 75W-90) or equivalent. Synthetic SAE 75W-140 it towing.

so they want dino in the front, and synthetic in the rear.
 

CherokeeLiberty

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This is where I’m at. As you can see, I have broken the ABS sensor out of the hub.

You must be registered for see images attach


The clevis bolt is seized up. My corded impact won’t budge it. So, it too is getting a PB soak. Good new is the I-shaft is still connected to the CV, so I won’t have to deal with that.
 

sota

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diffs, 15k or never? doing them at 30k
manual trans. finding 30k recommended, doing 30k
t-case. finding 30k or 60k recommended, doing 30k, since I plow and use 4WD a lot doing that.

going to pull samples and send them to blackstone labs also.

in addition, actual Mopar branded ATF+4, case of 12, for $65+tx shipped on amazon.
 

tommudd

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ok so this is interesting.
I grabbed my owner's manual, went to the fluids and lubricants table, and it says
front: Mopar Gear & Axle Lubricant (SAE 80W-90) or equivalent.
rear: Mopar Synthetic Gear Lubricant (SAE 75W-90) or equivalent. Synthetic SAE 75W-140 it towing.

so they want dino in the front, and synthetic in the rear.

Anything to try and get 1/10 of an extra mile per gallon
always use dino, hangs in there better
 

David13

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See that is why you drive a Jeep with an ARB bumper, I've hit a few deer at speed ( 55-60) and didn't even scratch the bumper, just hair and ground up deer meat .
That ARB also took out a Camry that pulled out in front of me and then stopped dead , cop sitting watching the fool laughed his butt off when I had 2 scratches and the Camry had to be towed
I drive mine to work, over 90 miles round trip, will never drive a disco car no matter the gas mileage
BUT to each his own


I'll have to look at the ARB bumper. This was the second one I hit with the econo box. The first one did zero damage to the econo box. His legs hit the 5 mph bumper on the passenger side and he flew up and out to the side. Zero damage.

This one was bigger and hit the drivers side corner. And then flew up, and into the windshield.

It could happen to any vehicle. See for example https://www.jeepkj.com/threads/the-...-headlights-still-work-thank-you-forum.64409/.

Probably wouldn't be that bad on a kk tho'.

I will look closer at the ARB.

Thanks
dc
 

David13

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I'm not finding an ARB bumper for the KK. Only the KJ.
dc

I guess the other thing I should say about it, is, look at the percentages.

Probably 50,000 miles on the econo box in Utah (4 years here) and hit two deer, this year only and one zero damage, the other some damage.

What are the odds.
dc

I knew it was inevitable, that's why I bought the Jeep to have a back up.

You guys need to get out there and do more deer hunting. They are over running the countryside.

Also, I'm finding the Jeep dependable. Starts up and runs, and keeps running.
 
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AJ9P

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Finished painting and reenforcing the brushguard. Found a drip, but that can wait till warmer temps to wet sand out.
 
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