wax on black Jeep

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liberty74

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Hello I just bought a 2012 Jeep Liberty Jet. After looking at the FAQ about waxes I have a few questions. First my Jeep is black crystal pearlcoat. should I wax this or seal it? Or should I wax AND seal? I see there is different stuff that everyone uses, but what are your absolute have to have products for a black vehicle. I mean this is black so a wax is recommended, but it also has the pearl in it so should I use a sealer? I want to keep this looking as nice as possible for as long as possible. Thanks.

Jeff
 

Cardhu

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Did the mothers 3 step on my black jeep this last weekend. didn't clay but wish I had. All the sand blasted fender nicks show up too. Prewax step 1, seal step 2, then wax step 3.

I'm sure there are better products out there but its what I went with.
 

Nextliberty

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On my black vehicles I use mothers wax and Turtle wax Ice between waxing. The Ice makes darn near any paint job look about as good as it can in my opinion. Give it a try, it's pretty great stuff.
 

kyled

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First of all, the Black Pearl Jeep is the most good looking car, but it is a high maintenance color. You have to both wax and seal to keep it looking nice.
 

HoosierJeeper

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On my Java Black mictallic LR3 I use clay, then Meg's ultimate compound, then Meg's Ultimate polish, then Surf City Garage Nano Glaze then Nano Sealant.
 

CGrant

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I just bought a '12 in Crystal Black Pearlcoat (or whatever it's called). Let me clarify...wax then seal or, seal then wax?
 

HoosierJeeper

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You could go either way. I might seal then wax...it would allow the sealer to adhere better.
 

Keseleth

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Most pro detailers seal it first and then wax, although as HoosierJeeper said, your can technically do it either way. Personally I like to do the wax last, as I don't put a sealer on very often. (Sealers etc are hard to find in my neighborhood, and I'm all out...lol)
 

cplchris

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sealant all the way, waxes are a joke now with all of the good quality sealants available, waxes are for show cars and other applications where durability is of no concern, sealants give better protection and durability, a few good ones are klasse, finish kare 2180, menzerna power lock, and meguiare ultimate paste wax (its not a wax it is a synthetic sealant).
 

Jeeptarian

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Wow, black paint! I guess most paints all now are covered by a clearcoat, no? I personally like black varieties the best of all colors, especially when the vehicle is detailed well, right? (Basically the color of my last two Jeeps, including my near-new 2012 KK in Black Crystal Pearl Coat!) But black paint has got to be the most challenging to maintain, and the easiest to kind of mess up, no? Even white paint helps hide some imperfections by way of the inherent glare!

I guess it's not environmentally correct now, but in my youth we used to put a bit of kerosone in the rinse water, and the vehicle surface, including the finicky chrome, would be nicely preserved. (Buffed with a soft cloth to finish up.)

Another thing I learned from way back was not to wash the vehicle in sunlight--otherwise the water drops act like little magnifying glasses and sort of microscopically pit the paint, not to mention leaving precipitate water spots.

Yet another old point was to always use cleaning/polishing/drying cloths that are softer on the hardness scale than is paint----basically use cotton cloths/toweling--NOT POLYESTER, etc.

For darker vehicle colors, I use a darker color cotton towel for drying; lint is less visible.

A final point is to NOT use cleaning/polishing/drying cloths/pads that have grit, even just a bit of fine sand/silica embedded in them or in the wax/polish you're using---otherwise it scratches paint.

Might seem like common sense to finish experts, but I had to learn this the hard way, long ago damaging some of my paint along the way.

Basically now I mainly use a combo wash and wax product, rinsing with the gentler "shower" setting of my hose nozzle; this practice leaves more protective wax residue on the vehicle. I also fit my nozzle with a fine stainless steel mesh grommet/washer to reduce grit coming through on the stream of water.
 
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QuickSilver

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I agree with the wax first, seal second methodology. A good wax formulated for black and other dark paints contains oils that enhance the color depth. A sealant does exactly what it name implies and will seal in the oils from the wax application.

I'm a Meguiars detailer, so my point of reference is all Meguiars products. I have no problem recommending Meguiars new Black Wax and NXT Generation Tech Wax 2.0 (the over-the-counter version of Meguiars professional grade sealant-wax). These are the products I use on my pitch black Challenger.

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Jeeptarian

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Just curious, Quicksilver, what does a top-qualiity detailer do to keep grit (which can quickly scratch finishes) out of waxing pads, whether hand or powered? Do you have a way to thoroughly clean the pads, so that you can change them out often, or??

Any tips for customers as to what to ask prospective detailers, what to look for in them, etc? [As I get older, I'm probably going to start looking at detailers (vs how I used to care for my vehicle's finish & interior myself), even if the detailer will be just for what will be my wife's car as she drives me around.]
 
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QuickSilver

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Just curious, Quicksilver, what does a top-qualiity detailer do to keep grit (which can quickly scratch finishes) out of waxing pads, whether hand or powered? Do you have a way to thoroughly clean the pads, so that you can change them out often, or??

Any tips for customers as to what to ask prospective detailers, what to look for in them, etc? [As I get older, I'm probably going to start looking at detailers (vs how I used to care for my vehicle's finish & interior myself), even if the detailer will be just for what will be my wife's car as she drives me around.]
Always buy machine washable pads. If the pad is truly dirty and too far gone for machine washing, throw it away. They're not that expensive and the cost of the marring to your paint will be exponentially more than the cost of a $1 foam applicator pad.

For really dirty pads, I use a Meguiars cleaning product called All Purpose Cleaner. This is a professional grade product you will only find online or at a paint and body store. But I've only used this on my machine buffer pads. I don't really use hand applicators anymore, and when I do I usually toss them when I'm done and just buy new ones the next time I visit the 99 cent store.

As for prospective detailers, ask them if they're members of any detailing forums and ask them to send you links to threads they've posted of cars they have polished. These are the confident detailers who have pride in their work and want to show it off. If you view their work from a detailing forum, check their post count and forum reputation. The good ones post often with advice to less experienced detailers. These are the guys and gals who will give you the best value for your buck.
 
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