Spacer lift vs Coil lift

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vXxo0oxXv

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Hey guys. I'm 100% new to cars and 100% new to the forum. Been reading posts for a few weeks now and just decided to join. Well anywho, I've been thinking about adding some balls to my 05' libby, particularly adding a lift and some new tires. I was wondering about the advantages and disadvantages of a spacer lift and a coil lift.

John
 

Mick

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I have actually been wondering about this too, but haven't posted the question yet. I see a lot of guys talking about removing their spacers and upgrading to coil lifts. What are the advantages of a coil lift over a spacer lift? Is it worth the extra money?
 

K Dje Ryu

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Last summer, shortly after I got my KJ, I put in Rocky Road Outfitter's budget OTT lift. It was fairly cheap; about $350 w/ shocks. Now, I get to replace the upper control arms and lower ball joints. I'm also taking out the OTT kit and replacing that with longer struts/springs from Rusty's OffRoad. That lift kit is also fairly cheap (about $100 more than RRO's budget) but, since I bought both and some other parts that got damaged by not having done it right to begin with, the total cost is somewhere near $1000 dollars.

Now, I'm not saying that the OTT spacer kit won't work but, in order to make it work and not destroy other vital components, you have to limit the distance that your suspension can travel, which imo is not what you want to do if you're trying to make a trail-ready vehicle.

Now, having said all that, I should have an used OTT budget lift kit for sale for VERY cheap as soon as my UCAs get here. (very cheap, as in; you pay shipping, it's yours) I'd even be able to throw some new, unused shocks in for a little more.
 

CRD4Liberty

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If your just driving the streets and a few logging roads, etc. a Daystar puck lift works very well without some of the problems the OTT lift above has, get Ranchos front and back to finish the job and your set. If you want max articulation, and are really going to push your rig a little offroad get a full coil lift. The Rocky lift has rear shocks that don't score real high on the satisfied customer meter and they soon get some Ranchos or OME shocks. The Frankenlift from All J's is the way to go if you want to only get under the rig once. The front is pre-assembled already, well thought out and sure make life easier/faster. It's built from the best components out there now, and improved as better becomes available. For instance a new rear shock and CRD front spring from OME are in the works or available right now and are worth the wait.
 

MoladoGuy

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In my opinion the coil lift would be your best choice. Considering the differences, A.) You receive heavy duty coils that are far better than the stock ones. B.) You will achieve a lot more articulation (stretch). C.) Your KJ will love you more. The spacer lift may work if you don't plan to drive it anywhere that may require stretch in the suspension. However, once you lift you may have an urge to test the trail ready capabilities.

I have the BDS 2" lift system and do very little off-road adventures. However, I have the options to do so without feeling that I may have problems.
 

scoobybri

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Spend the extra $200 initially and get the coil kit. The potential problems with spacer kits can cost alot more in the long run.
 

williebones

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would the spacer kit be good for someone that will not be doing a lot of off roading... maybe some mude every once in a while.
 

tommudd

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williebones, Read everything above, you may say that you will only go two times a year but then get a lift and deceide that you want to go more and had wished you got springs etc. Also an important factor is you are going to UPGRADE your suspension so why not do it right the first time. You can buy some of it now some later and then install. I bought my OME Heavy Duty coils and front struts one month , next month the rear shocks and some other things that way youre not putting out so much all of a sudden.
 

K Dje Ryu

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scoobybri said:
Spend the extra $200 initially and get the coil kit. The potential problems with spacer kits can cost alot more in the long run.
tommudd said:
williebones, Read everything above

Quoted: for truth and from experience!

I finally broke before my ball joints do (I hope!) and spent twice as much, for stock UCAs from the stealership, as I expected to but, they'll be here tomorrow. Still waiting for Moog K3199s but, I gotta change out the uppers now. Tomorrow, I will take off the RRO 2.5" budget kit and install Rusty's 2.5" strut/spring kit, leaving the Doetsch Tech 8000 shocks. I also have Daystar anti-sway bar bushings and I happened to notice the perfect piece of polyurethane today at work for an extended rear bumpstop. I'll post pics of everything I possibly can, of course. Don't expect much from my old camera, though. :-$ or my machining skills with poly. I'm more used to metals. Been considering how to make my own ball joints, in fact. :-k
 

vXxo0oxXv

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K Dje Ryu said:
Quoted: for truth and from experience!

I finally broke before my ball joints do (I hope!) and spent twice as much, for stock UCAs from the stealership, as I expected to but, they'll be here tomorrow. Still waiting for Moog K3199s but, I gotta change out the uppers now. Tomorrow, I will take off the RRO 2.5" budget kit and install Rusty's 2.5" strut/spring kit, leaving the Doetsch Tech 8000 shocks. I also have Daystar anti-sway bar bushings and I happened to notice the perfect piece of polyurethane today at work for an extended rear bumpstop. I'll post pics of everything I possibly can, of course. Don't expect much from my old camera, though. :-$ or my machining skills with poly. I'm more used to metals. Been considering how to make my own ball joints, in fact. :-k

So we've all heard about the ball joints wearing out, but whats up with the UCAs? Are those failing prematurely too or is it just good to change them out after beating up on the suspension?
 

KJ04

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vXxo0oxXv said:
K Dje Ryu said:
Quoted: for truth and from experience!

I finally broke before my ball joints do (I hope!) and spent twice as much, for stock UCAs from the stealership, as I expected to but, they'll be here tomorrow. Still waiting for Moog K3199s but, I gotta change out the uppers now. Tomorrow, I will take off the RRO 2.5" budget kit and install Rusty's 2.5" strut/spring kit, leaving the Doetsch Tech 8000 shocks. I also have Daystar anti-sway bar bushings and I happened to notice the perfect piece of polyurethane today at work for an extended rear bumpstop. I'll post pics of everything I possibly can, of course. Don't expect much from my old camera, though. :-$ or my machining skills with poly. I'm more used to metals. Been considering how to make my own ball joints, in fact. :-k

So we've all heard about the ball joints wearing out, but whats up with the UCAs? Are those failing prematurely too or is it just good to change them out after beating up on the suspension?

Upper ball joint contact, from weak stock struts, OTT spacers and Rough Country style clevis spacers.
Since our upper ball joints and upper control arms are one peice, you have to replace the whole control arm.
If your upper ball joints wear out and you have a lift, just get Jeepin Al's upper control arms with greesable B.J.'s, made for lifted KJ's at $385 pair.


Do yourself a favor, and go with the Rusty's coil lift.

http://www.jeepinbyal.com/files/index.php
 

K Dje Ryu

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I would love to install Al's arms but, can't find any to buy. Rusty's is working on some, also but, they aren't available, yet.
 

K Dje Ryu

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WooHoo! Twice as much as I intended to spend and six hours more work than I figured on but, my KJ rides like new again (better, even!)

And here's why you don't want to buy an OTT strut spacer lift kit:
You must be registered for see images attach


Here's what it looks like now, with longer struts and springs, instead of spacers:
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Both pics taken at max droop with the sway-bar disconnected.
 

Ry' N Jen

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Hi there,

I have a couple of questions:

When the suspension is at full extension with the sway bar disconnected, does the upper control arm make contact with the spring?

And:

I know that the factory ball joints are non serviceable. But looking at the photograph, one may draw the conclusion that with a lift kit, the ball joint does not get a full range of movement, causing it to wear unevenly and making it prone to earlier failure?
 

K Dje Ryu

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I that first pic (OTT spacer), the ball joint itself is contacting the spring. It caused mine to get knocked loose from the spindle. The ball itself is a little worn but doesn't really move much in the socket. After removing that lift and installing Rusty's spring/strut lift, there's enough room to slide my hand between the ball joint and the spring.
 
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