Cheap parts , not breaking , just wear out
Even with the JBA extension installed and tri-link sitting at the stock angle I could go through them in just a few months . Wasn't a lift issue at all
Rear UCA is shot, help!
- Thread starter mindbomb
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Cheap parts , not breaking , just wear out
Even with the JBA extension installed and tri-link sitting at the stock angle I could go through them in just a few months . Wasn't a lift issue at all
tjkj2002
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I have to agree with Tom.
MOOG makes great tie rod ends and ball joints but there bushings are pretty bad and there bearings are marginal.
and what about Dorman UCA?
Bad
tjkj2002
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The only thing I've found that dorman makes that is worth using is wheel studs.
But you have to look past the incorrect markings like my front studs which are 1/2x20(SAE threads) but the base states metric grade 10.9 which is wrong and should be marked with 6 hash marks(grade 8) since it's a SAE wheel stud.
mindbomb
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Incorrect, recommendation is to get an alignment after.
tjkj2002
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Would be a good idea to have it checked as the rear axle(it's orientation) sets the front toe.
mindbomb
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So whats the verdict on the JBA Y Link extension? Getting a mixed bag of opinions all over.
Should I assign additional 84$ for that? worth the effort/money in the long run?
Should I assign additional 84$ for that? worth the effort/money in the long run?
Worth it
Here is what happens when lifted
Tri link is put on a bind pointing downward
If you are lifted and take the tri link loose in the back it will come up about 2-3 inches depending on amount of lift . ( with just two front bolts holding it. )
It helps
adamkrz
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works well for me too, Went through 2 tri links in one year, I had to adjust it a couple of times for the correct angle -now it sits level without all the stress it had after being lifted.
Found a great condition Mopar tri - link online from out west for 60 dollars shipped.
mindbomb
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Wait you mean complete rear UCA assembly or you mean JBA Y link extension part?? The mopar UCAs run north of 400$ but there's some aftermarket ones from ~62$ to ~130$ but from this thread replies I understood that's a bad investment, so I'm gonna resolve to pushing new moog problem solver bushings to the existing UCA (and give it a rust treatment).
or, buy a low cost UCA and put Moog parts in it. this way, no rust or rot concerns plus less down time.
:emotions34::emotions34::emotions34::Bye:
adamkrz
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Bought used OEM from a low miles jeep - some junkyard out west ( WA. ) has a bunch in stock with great photos, Was very pleased when it arrived
Hope its a good one
BUT here is the deal, maybe low mileage, but age still starts the bushings to deteriorating. Install it and it goes bad in a few months.
One guy bought 3 off of low mileage wrecks, one we installed on his had 38,000 miles and was 7 years old. Didn't last long till he was back ready to install the next one.
mindbomb
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Decided to go this route, purchased:
1. Moog PS-series bushings
2. Moog PS-series ball joint
3. JBA Y link extension
and do some DIY pressing out/in + rust treatment to existing OE arm.. I'll try to be careful on the pressing, wish me luck.
1. Moog PS-series bushings
2. Moog PS-series ball joint
3. JBA Y link extension
and do some DIY pressing out/in + rust treatment to existing OE arm.. I'll try to be careful on the pressing, wish me luck.
Good luck, keep us posted!
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