duderz7
Full Access Member
Let us know how they come together
Rear brake drag/caliper failure/hose
- Thread starter oblivionnewtonjohn
- Start date
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Inline Tube has some good stuff. I have a whole set for a project in the garage. Won't get to try them until the body comes off the frame though...
oblivionnewtonjohn
Full Access Member
Glad to hear that. He had overall good reviews with a few recent bad ones, can't make everyone happy. But they appear to be just what I need. Crazy a few Jeep wholesale parts sites show the bigger line still available for $46 but the short piece is discontinued, superseded with a part that cost $312!
I may order front lines after I check mine in case he discontinues them.
oblivionnewtonjohn
Full Access Member
NAPA rear hoses seem to be incorrect, can't tell which as they're not marked, but I believe it's drivers side. The lip on the banjo block won't clear caliper edge, banjoe block appears to be 1/8 too short. Found what I needed at Advanced, not my first pick but the guy was friendly, put his hands on the hoses and I got a 25% discount.
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oblivionnewtonjohn
Full Access Member
Same issue with Advanced/Carquest, also Sunsong brand. Seems to be manufactured incorrectly. Can I flip the banjo block and the ports for the fluid still work?
I haven't had to do any brakelines on my 05 yet, and the 02 had rear drums. I know when I blew a front line on the 02 I replaced them with Mopar. Hopefully someone who knows will be along soon.
Are you sure you have it turned the right way, makes a huge difference
oblivionnewtonjohn
Full Access Member
Yes, both NAPA and Advanced house brands are Sunsong brand, they're not made right for the passenger side. Drivers hose fits pass caliper backwards but doesn't loop back the right way to feed hard line. I tried both hoses on both calipers multiple ways, they're just not made right for the passenger side. I even filed down the lip of the banjoe block carefully, bolt hole would look close, but add bolt, lip still caught caliper edge. Spent a few hours doing this. My battery died on my caliper gauge so I couldn't get measurements.
I am going to try mounting with the banjo block flipped up which does fit the top caliper edge slot, just the "L" lip side won't clear caliper edge. I'll bleed/test to make sure fluid is getting back there.
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oblivionnewtonjohn
Full Access Member
Finally got it all done after taking a break to do some house projects.
Bled the system, drivers front caliper bleed valve is rounded off.
I will try with my vice grips tomorrow, worst case, new caliper.
This was a pain in the rear to replace all of this.
For posterity, avoid Sunsong (NAPA and Advanced/Carquest) soft lines, they do not fit correctly. I got mine to work with some tedious, but safe modifications. I recommend Raybestos.
Bled the system, drivers front caliper bleed valve is rounded off.
I will try with my vice grips tomorrow, worst case, new caliper.
This was a pain in the rear to replace all of this.
For posterity, avoid Sunsong (NAPA and Advanced/Carquest) soft lines, they do not fit correctly. I got mine to work with some tedious, but safe modifications. I recommend Raybestos.
Not that you were the one who rounded it off, but I always break the bleed valves free with a six point socket before trying to bleed. Then get the flare wrench on it for the actual bleeding. Seems like I've been doing nothing but brakes on multiple vehicles for the past few weeks. Ones got manual four wheel drums... Geez.
oblivionnewtonjohn
Full Access Member
I have bled the system 3 times with a Mighty Vac until lines were bubble free.
I followed FSM, pass rear, driver's rear, pass and drivers. All connections and valves are tight, no leaks.
Stumped why the pedal is still spongy. Any suggestions?
I followed FSM, pass rear, driver's rear, pass and drivers. All connections and valves are tight, no leaks.
Stumped why the pedal is still spongy. Any suggestions?
If it is just air remaining, I had trouble with my 02 years ago when I replaced a rear hardline. I was using the vacuum bleed method. Finally recruited my wife to press the pedal while I watched for bubbles to stop and then closed the bleeder. Was fine after that. I've used the vac system on several other vehicles without problems but couldn't get it to work that time.
oblivionnewtonjohn
Full Access Member
that was my next step, wanted to ensure I wasn't missing any caveats
