Re Gearing

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ktmrider

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I fixed the front driveshaft and most of my noise went away but there is still a low grade thumping going on with the front end. Probably the intermediate shaft. So I have decided to go ahead with my re gearing and I have axles out of 4 cylinder gas units with 4.10s. I have the front already and should have the rear next week. I had a DTT for the front and found one for the rear on Craigslist and have decided to go with limited slips front and rear instead of lockers. I have an autolocker in my Cherokee and I hate it on the street. This is my new daily driver and if I don't like the DTT on the rear I can sell it and upgrade to an ARB. For the off roading I do I think the DTT's will be fine.
 

sota

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thought the most common diff setup for mall crawlers that offroad occasionally, was DTT out back and full locker up front. could be wrong though.
 

ktmrider

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Mine goes off road quite a bit. It just does not get wheels off the ground very often. The only way I would go back with lockers would be with ARB's. If the DTT's don't work like I want I can always change. Got both of them at a good price.
 

sota

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well, if for some reason you decide to part with the 4.10 DTT setups after running them for a while, look me up. :)
 

twowings

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You do not want a full auto locker in the front, I can assure you...steering on tight trails will be a nightmare...needs to be able to be disengaged at will like an ARB...
 

CzarKJ

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Works well in the rear as well for me. Maybe one day I'll put one in front as well
 

TwoBobsKJ

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I've always wondered if I can put a an DTT in my front diff and drive my 242 T-case in full time mode and not screw up the t-case.

Thoughts?

Bob
 

nullptr

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I've always wondered if I can put a an DTT in my front diff and drive my 242 T-case in full time mode and not screw up the t-case.

Thoughts?

Bob

It should be OK, since the t-case itself is what is allowing the slip between the two axles. Also, the True-trac should unlock during turns... operative word being 'should'.
 

tjkj2002

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I've always wondered if I can put a an DTT in my front diff and drive my 242 T-case in full time mode and not screw up the t-case.

Thoughts?

Bob
Nope won't hurt the t-case,will wear the front tires some if on dry pavement and you will know the DTT is up there since you will be fighting the highest torqued biased LSD on the market if turning under power.
 

TwoBobsKJ

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Nope won't hurt the t-case,will wear the front tires some if on dry pavement and you will know the DTT is up there since you will be fighting the highest torqued biased LSD on the market if turning under power.

Cool - thanks Troy. I'm thinking of putting DTT's in both axles one day. Jeep mods... interior updates in the winter, exterior mods in the summer. This has become a year-round deal hasn't it? :shrug: :happy175:

Bob
 

ktmrider

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The front diff has the DTT installed and is ready to go. I have the rear axle and waiting on the DTT for it to arrive. When I did my lift I did not install any rear bump stops. JBA told me they didn't suggest them for a 2.5 lift. Now is the perfect time to install some if I really should.
 

twowings

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Hope you will post up a full trail test when she's all buttoned up..:favorites13:
 

TwoBobsKJ

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The front diff has the DTT installed and is ready to go. I have the rear axle and waiting on the DTT for it to arrive. When I did my lift I did not install any rear bump stops. JBA told me they didn't suggest them for a 2.5 lift. Now is the perfect time to install some if I really should.

Keep us posted!!

And yes, you should install the rear bumpstops. Don't know why Marlin would say you don't need them - you don't want to bottom out the extended shocks :thumbsdown:

Bob
 

tommudd

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Depending on what shocks he used some will say no need for bumpstops. For example OME says that bumpstops are not needed for their stock length shocks but for extended ones we use with lifts they are. Some never read the full texts on each shock etc .
BUT bumpstops should be used if nothing else as a cheap insurance policy. I was trying a little different rear setup back in 05 to see if it would work or not . I had removed my rear bumpstops, was testing amount of flex etc and blew a shock :Bye:. Went a little more than I thought it would :happy175: Results new shocks, experiment didn't work anyways :thumbsdown:
 

ktmrider

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I have a extra set of Daystar stops that were left over from my XJ. I am going to put them on.
 
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ktmrider

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I checked my hwy fuel mileage today for about an 80 mile round trip to see what happens with the gear change. I was kind of surprised how much it gained over my combined driving. Unless I calculated wrong it was like a 5 mpg difference.
 

tommudd

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I checked my hwy fuel mileage today for about an 80 mile round trip to see what happens with the gear change. I was kind of surprised how much it gained over my combined driving. Unless I calculated wrong it was like a 5 mpg difference.

No surprising at all, about what most average after a gear swap to 4.10s
I installed my 32s a few days before I regeared , dropped to 15-16 , after regear back to 21-22
 

ktmrider

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No surprising at all, about what most average after a gear swap to 4.10s
I installed my 32s a few days before I regeared , dropped to 15-16 , after regear back to 21-22

I have not done the regear yet and I am getting 14 right now in combined. But I got 18 hwy only. Hopefully I get some of that back with the 4.10's. I did word that wrong. I was suprised at the differenece between pure hwy and combined mileage.
 

tommudd

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I have not done the regear yet and I am getting 14 right now in combined. But I got 18 hwy only. Hopefully I get some of that back with the 4.10's. I did word that wrong. I was suprised at the differenece between pure hwy and combined mileage.

Well then just wait till you do regear, more power and mileage
 
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