Pre Install - F / R leveling

Cardhu

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
Messages
685
Reaction score
5
Location
Great White North
From what i've read in numerous posts regarding the standard 927 948 set up, I've got one question about the strut spacer plate from JBA.

http://jeepinbyal.com/prod-Strut_spacer_plate_set-684.aspx

From what i've read so far, using 1/4 inch strut spacer from JBA with a touch of clevis lift in part with 1 rear iso spacer lets you sit about level front and rear. (Post settlement of springs?)

If you don't use the 1/4 inch plate or the rear iso will that equate to about the same drop? IE will i sit level using only

Front
927
Bilstein F4-BE5-D916-H0
stock coil seats and strut mounts
no clevis lift

Rear
948
Bilstein F4-BE5-A702-HO

quick math says 1/4 inch front plate = 1/2 inch rise front vs 1/2 inch spacer rear but deferring to this groups experience.

Also ordered the Red JBA UC Arms and a 1/4 inch plate (just in case) but would prefer to assemble only once initially. I understand most try and go up at once but my biggest reason for replacement is that it handles like a goat towing a shopping cart over bumps right now the way my springs are sagging. ~18 inches front wheel center to fender, cv's look flat if not slightly down, starting to wear tires slightly on the inside.

Trying to keep lift height reasonable (for now) such that my 07's ESP doesn't go completely insane as soon as I touch the suspension and change the stance from lifting as i've seen in some posts here and there (hopefully rare occurrence).

Yes I ordered bump stops F/R too.

first Lift, first post, month or more of lurking, and first question.

2007 Jeep KJ Sport
80,000 KM
No skids, no bumpers.
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
21,942
Reaction score
3,098
Location
Southeastern Ohio
welcome
OK I'll go through how I set them up to be level and you can go from there
I do a JBA 1/4 inch top plate along with a 3 ring clevis with two extra upper Iso in the rear
so what I'm doing is giving them an extra 1.25 inches in front and an inch extra in the rear.
So using none of the extras you'll be about 1/4 lower in the front. Using the JBA top plate you'll be about 1/4 inch higher in front

Of course all of this is average heights etc, there can be small amounts of difference between KJs

clear as mud???????:happy175:

Its going to handle so much difference, its always funny to see peoples reactions after I do a lift on theirs, they come back saying its like driving a brand new KJ only better
 

Cardhu

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
Messages
685
Reaction score
5
Location
Great White North
To Long Did not read version (TLDNR):

Thanks. Is settlement after install same front and rear?

Longer version:

Thanks, now two weeks to over think it and build brake line extension brackets.

When the lift settles, do you loose more on the rear or front? Just the same, .25 inch over ~105 inches is not much cause for concern. Close to level works for me.

Only fresh install numbers and "today" comparison I've seen were with this 9 month update from ry' n jen.

http://www.jeepkj.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39094&page=6

Which dropped equal all around.

Most people on the "compare fender heights" thread appear to be nose up. Is there any advantage other then being able to see traffic lights easier? Or is this a direct byproduct of being able to add 1.5 inches up front and only 2 iso limit per side in rear?
 

TwoBobsKJ

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 28, 2011
Messages
2,637
Reaction score
14
Location
Northern Ohio
I added two rear isolators to ours to balance out the front and rear and that's with a Frankenlift/clevis lift with 4.25 inches of lift when first installed.
Now that the springs have settled our Heep is still at 22.25" front and 21.25" rear.

Ryan here's a question regarding the measurements that may clear things up for the OP:

Does your "Heep" actually sit level even though the measurements make it appear the front is higher? Is the measurement difference due to the size difference between the front and rear fender wells? In other words, the front fender well opening is actually "cut" one inch higher relative to the frame than the rear fender well - so when you give measurements from the center of the wheel to the flare on the both axles it makes it seem as though the centerline of the vehicle runs "downhill" from front to back. But actually the centerline is level - yes?

I've probably "mudd-ed" up this thread...My apologies :pp:

Bob
 

tommudd

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
Joined
Jul 14, 2005
Messages
21,942
Reaction score
3,098
Location
Southeastern Ohio
muddy for sure
but yes you are correct on the measurements but......
I measure from the pinch weld down to fine tune mine front to rear/ side to side

I do like the fact that one week someone wants more info and is upset because no one gives it to them, next week you explain in detail and they don't read it as its too long of an explanation:happy175::happy175::happy175::happy175::happy175::happy175::happy175:
 
Last edited:

Cardhu

Full Access Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2011
Messages
685
Reaction score
5
Location
Great White North
I'll try my luck with the spacer and no rear iso. Let you know how it turns out as iso's are easier to add later if needed before second alignment. No point in me thinking about it anymore and time to see what happens. No matter what it will be a gigantic improvement.

Thanks for your responses and i'll be sure to check pinch weld measurements at the end.
 

Latest posts

Members online

Top