Possibel water pump leak?
- Thread starter YoungL
- Start date
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mightybeet
Full Access Member
original waterpump lasted 140k miles. not sure where it was leaking but i just remember seeing smoke. i went to add coolant and as soon as i opened the cap all my fluid poured out the pump. 2nd pump lasted about 80k miles. think it was gasket. not sure who the manufacturer was. 3rd pump was mopar and lasted little under 60k. think it was the gasket leaking between bolts 5 and 7. my 4th waterpump is bosch with the metal impeller.
02redKJ
Full Access Member
You will not even be loosening the bolt. Nothing to worry about. You are just going to be adding pressure on a spring until you can remove the belt. Then releasing it until you want to put the belt back on. Add tension again to install the belt and once you have the belt on you release the tension on the spring again against the belt and you are finished. There is even a diagram on the hood to show you the routing of the belt.
Correct!
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
The procedure is in the video. You're releasing the tension on the idler by rotating the bolt clockwise, which by nature is turning the bolt in the tightening position. Be sure to scrape clean, sand, and use brake cleaner on the gasket surface of the block. You want it to be squeaky clean to prevent leaks. Put a very thin film of Ultra Copper RTV on one side of the gasket, stick it to the block, more RTV on the water pump gasket surface, and button it down.
I forgot to mention it seems to only leak when it has sat overnight... I cant get it to leak if engines warm...
So you just put the wrench right on the pullew bolt on pull clockwise and it releases tension to get bolt loose? makes sense...if so im goin for it
So you just put the wrench right on the pullew bolt on pull clockwise and it releases tension to get bolt loose? makes sense...if so im goin for it
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
You did mean to say belt, not bolt? And yes that's all there is to it.I forgot to mention it seems to only leak when it has sat overnight... I cant get it to leak if engines warm...
So you just put the wrench right on the pullew bolt on pull clockwise and it releases tension to get bolt loose? makes sense...if so im goin for it
I bought the pump and am going to replace on day off. I have been reading more and I read someone had an issue with it actually being the timing cover itself!! Has anyone heard of this being an issue with a KJ?? How much would this cost to fix?
frontrangecctv
New Member
YoungL, I have confidence you can do this! I just replaced my water pump because I was having the EXACT same problem that you are describing. Only took me about an hour. Mine was leaking from the bottom/side of the pump, dripping into the V shaped oil filter drain chute, then dripping onto the ground. This also only happened with the engine cold/sitting overnight. I think it has to do with when the engine gets hot it doesn't leak because of expansion, the gasket expands and self seals with heat, when it gets cold it contracts, exposing a slight gap for some seepage to occur.
As far as your questions on the belt and tension pulley:
1. You do not "unbolt" the tension pulley. It is spring loaded. Put a socket wrench on the bolt. Rotate clockwise. When you do this the bolt WILL NOT LOOSEN. Instead the ENTIRE pulley will move, releasing the tension on the belt.
2. Remove belt and then release the tension pulley. Since it is spring loaded is will spring back to it original position.
3. Remove water pump (as you remove, keep track of the bolts and the order in which you removed them (what holes they go in). Some bolts are different lengths depending on which hole they go into.
4. Install new water pump and gasket. Install bolts back in the same order that you removed them. - The instructions that come with the pump should also give you torque specifications. If you don't have a torque wrench, most auto parts stores will loan you one free. You pay a deposit but get it back when you return the tool.
5. Re-install belt. Put socket on tension pulley again and rotate clockwise. While holding it in the clockwise position, put the belt back on according to the belt diagram (should be printed under the hood). When the belt is in its correct routing/position, release the tension pulley, it will spring back to its "home position"
In short, the only thing you actually "unbolt" is the water pump.
Good video walk through here: How to replace water pump on Jeep Liberty 3.7 KJ - YouTube
As far as your questions on the belt and tension pulley:
1. You do not "unbolt" the tension pulley. It is spring loaded. Put a socket wrench on the bolt. Rotate clockwise. When you do this the bolt WILL NOT LOOSEN. Instead the ENTIRE pulley will move, releasing the tension on the belt.
2. Remove belt and then release the tension pulley. Since it is spring loaded is will spring back to it original position.
3. Remove water pump (as you remove, keep track of the bolts and the order in which you removed them (what holes they go in). Some bolts are different lengths depending on which hole they go into.
4. Install new water pump and gasket. Install bolts back in the same order that you removed them. - The instructions that come with the pump should also give you torque specifications. If you don't have a torque wrench, most auto parts stores will loan you one free. You pay a deposit but get it back when you return the tool.
5. Re-install belt. Put socket on tension pulley again and rotate clockwise. While holding it in the clockwise position, put the belt back on according to the belt diagram (should be printed under the hood). When the belt is in its correct routing/position, release the tension pulley, it will spring back to its "home position"
In short, the only thing you actually "unbolt" is the water pump.
Good video walk through here: How to replace water pump on Jeep Liberty 3.7 KJ - YouTube
Thanks for the help i got some confidence now! Did you unhook the bottom hose to dtain radiator? I just called autozone and the will loan torque wrench! Did you follow any procedure when refilling the coolant?
Thanks for the help!!
Thanks for the help!!
I just did mine Sunday.
I did not drain the radiator first. As expected, when you loosen the bolts on the water pump, coolant drains out. I drained probably a gallon of coolant. It's a bit messy, since it's bouncing off several parts on the way down, but a wide rectangular pan, or series of buckets should be able to catch most of it.
When I finished I simply filled the coolant reservoir, ran the engine, and added coolant as necessary. Took about 1.5 hours all told.
I did not drain the radiator first. As expected, when you loosen the bolts on the water pump, coolant drains out. I drained probably a gallon of coolant. It's a bit messy, since it's bouncing off several parts on the way down, but a wide rectangular pan, or series of buckets should be able to catch most of it.
When I finished I simply filled the coolant reservoir, ran the engine, and added coolant as necessary. Took about 1.5 hours all told.
CactusJacked
Full Access Member
The water jackets inside the engine block are filled with coolant. You have two choices:
1) Disconnect the lower hose and drain the coolant into a bucket, then remove the water pump, or
2) Just go ahead and remove the water pump first and spill coolant down the engine and all over the floor.
Not gonna say which, but one of those ways is going to be a lot less messy!
frontrangecctv
New Member
Always best to drain as much coolant as possible, but not required, just ensures a cleaner coolant system. A few things I recommend/I did when I replaced my water pump.
1. This is a good time to also replace your thermostat since you will be working in/around that area. T Stats cost about $7-10 bucks, a little bit more for fail safe ones. All you do is take off the lower radiator hose. This then exposes the T stat and the 2 bolts that hold it in place. Unbolt the old one and bolt the new one back on.
2. This is also a good time to check your hoses too for wear and replacement if needed.
1. This is a good time to also replace your thermostat since you will be working in/around that area. T Stats cost about $7-10 bucks, a little bit more for fail safe ones. All you do is take off the lower radiator hose. This then exposes the T stat and the 2 bolts that hold it in place. Unbolt the old one and bolt the new one back on.
2. This is also a good time to check your hoses too for wear and replacement if needed.
So, I replaced the water pump finally yesterday! The hardest part was getting the lower radiator hose off! They are held on with tension hose clamp and on top of that the hose was attached pretty solid, took awhile! I was a little afraid of damaging the radiator, but I had to go for it because it was 32 degrees outside!
I got a brand new waterpump from autozone for 50$ and it came with lifetime warranty. If anything goes wrong with it as long as I own the vehicle, I get a new pump for free. I was going to replace the thermostat, but it was too cold outside my fingers were numb and I just wanted to get the job done!
I had a question about burping the coolant system. Do you guys think that running the vehicle for 10 minutes with the radiator cap off is enough time to fully burp the system. It bubbled over a good couple of times causing me to have to refill the overflow. I would recommend anyone doing this job to make sure you have a deep socket 13mm and also a 3" extender for the ratched. The extender worked really well to get the bolts finger tight and the deep socket was needed for the torque wrench (40ft/lbs). Thanks everybody for the help!
I got a brand new waterpump from autozone for 50$ and it came with lifetime warranty. If anything goes wrong with it as long as I own the vehicle, I get a new pump for free. I was going to replace the thermostat, but it was too cold outside my fingers were numb and I just wanted to get the job done!
I had a question about burping the coolant system. Do you guys think that running the vehicle for 10 minutes with the radiator cap off is enough time to fully burp the system. It bubbled over a good couple of times causing me to have to refill the overflow. I would recommend anyone doing this job to make sure you have a deep socket 13mm and also a 3" extender for the ratched. The extender worked really well to get the bolts finger tight and the deep socket was needed for the torque wrench (40ft/lbs). Thanks everybody for the help!
tjkj2002
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For a couple dollars more you could have gotten a good waterpump,never buy hard engine parts at autozone.Good luck you will need it.As far as filling the cooling system just fill through the bleed hole in the upper radiator hose(with cap off),once that part is full add coolant to the bottle and run till the t-stat opens.Should never have to add anymore if you fill through the bleed hole 1st.
When you do change the t-stat make sure you buy a OEM from the dealership(with gasket),aftermarket ones for the KJ are crap.
02redKJ
Full Access Member
Congratulations! We knew you could do it...
Was the pump bad, or was or just the gasket?
:dogpile::happy160::favorites37:arty36:
Was the pump bad, or was or just the gasket?
:dogpile::happy160::favorites37:
arty36:The gasket was bad... pump was fine, but i replaced it anyway. I did not fill through the bleed hole, so I hope everything is fine... I just ran the jeep with the cap off the overflow and filled the coolant after it would bubble up and go down into the radiator...the gasket was bad at the bottom right side.
02redKJ
Full Access Member
Posted in the wrong place, Sorry!
Last edited:
tjkj2002
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Look at the upper radiator hose,drivers side of the engine,and you will see a aluminum pipe that that hose connects to on the engine side.There is a plug on top of that,that is the bleed hole and takes a 8mm allen socket.
02redKJ
Full Access Member
Did I call it or what! Glad you got it fixed. Before giving up on the coolant, be sure the engine is completely warmed up and the thermostat is open. Then squeeze the upper radiator hose a few times and watch the fill tank. Its water level should go up evenly as you apply pressure to the hose. If it bubbles, keep it up. once it stops bubbling, you should be good to go. Fill the tank to the proper level and install the cap. After driving it a few miles or so, pop the hood and check to see that there is coolant in the reservoir. If all good. voila!
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